Freejan

Well I’ve booked the flights! I leave Manchester 28th December 2011, pop into Heathrow and then off to Singapore for the night and then on to Aukland until 14th Feb, then onto LA and San Francisco for a week , leaving on 20th Feb for Vancouver until 7th March. More details to come!

We left Arequipa and got to Puno early evening to a very big change in coldness! It had not been hot in Arequipa but Puno was a freeze your socks off place! We had seen the condors and were now going to see the floating islands of the Uros in Lake Titicaca. The first day we set off to be at the docks by 9am – way too late for the trips to the islands by all accounts, but found an islander from Amantini to take us to his island along with the egg supply for the island and other goods! We sat on top to see the lake and gradually started to freeze! The lake was not what I had expected at first – cant really say what I did expect except perhaps something more romantic – can you understand that? Anyway, it took 4 hours in the freezing cold with blankets over our knees to get to the island – it is now I began to understand the size of this famous lake. We were welcomed on the island, went a little walk round, looked at and bought some of the local crafts to support the islands economy (salve my conscience at my invasion!) and were then given lunch of soup, (amazing) and then chips, egg and rice by the man´s family. We then set off to the peninsula where he told us we had a 15 minute walk to get the bus back to Puno (2 hours). We are all sufering a bit with altitude and to walk was quite hard as it was very up and down – ended up bing half an hour. We then got a collectivo (people carrier thing) which took us back to Puno. It was all enough to put Rhonda off and she stayed back in Puno while Jean and I went on an arranged trip to the Uros islands and Taquile island the next day. We were up at 5.30am and picked up from the hotel at 6.40am. This time it was much more civilised. WE sat in a much better boat – no eggs! – and were warm inside. We stopped first at Chumpi island – an island made of reeds and floating in the lake. We were shown how they made the isalnds, how they bulit their houses, what they ate (reeds near root, fish and birds and a lovely bread they gave us a sample of), and some of their art work which of course they sold to tourists. All very interesting. We then went across to another island in a huge reed boat – it was amazing to just float in such a serene way across the lake. On that island was a trout farm – much smaller scale than we have but we saw a girl feeding them with smaller fish and them all jumping up to catch the food. You could stay on the island in a teepee shaped house for 10 Soles a night ( about 1.50 pounds). We then got back on the boat and sailed for another 2 hours to the Isle Taquile. We were led across the island from the dock which was a steep slope up to the middle of the island where the town square was. It was magical. I loved it all. The way the terraces were farmed, the flowers and trees, all with a back drop of this sparkling blue lake. The lake was much more like a sea – yu couldn´t see the next bit of land in many directions. We bought a few more of their crafts and went for lunch of kingfish, chips and rice and the soup (the wonderful soup) breforehand. A young man sang and played the pan pipes and a local version of a mandolin. We were then shown the local clothes and how they were worn and why – men knit their own hats here and if white and red they are not married and if red or dark colour, they are. Very interesting to see the men knitting their hats! We then set off back for the docks at Puno arriving back at 5.15pm. I had had the day of my life. We were up next day to travel to Cusco. This was a very long drawn out affair – taking 7 and 1/2 hours instead of 6! But now back here and having a free day on my own to relax. WE are staying in a lovely hostal with a huge double wooden door that locks with a padlock afer we have put across the large bolt! We are disappointed about our timing at arriving here as they are celebrating the Inta Rayni – Sun Festival – tomorrow at Sacyhuman – should be an amazing sight but we´ll miss it. The festival is going on in the streets now so we hope to catch bits today. We´ve seen so much – so lucky and SO  tired!!

 ´Til next time! xx

Just catching up while Jean and Rhonda have gone to change some money to Soles before we catch the bus to Puno. Jean has been ill for a few days with diarrhoera (another attempt at spelling!) and hopefully has been to a pharmacy or a clinic (addresses kind permission of Lonely Planet) and will feel better soon. We are here still when we had planned to go to Puno last night but we were too late getting back from our very tiring, but exciting, trip to the Colca Canyon to see condors yesterday. We left the Casa at 2am in the morning and travelled to Chivay in a Mitshubitsi (spelling again!) people carrier thing, which took 4 hours. We had breakfast and then travelled a further 2 hours to the Colca Canyon. We went through a series of emotions and feelings as we set off on this trip. It was amazingly cold in the car – he had no heater! – and although I had 3 layers on with my padded jacket, thick socks and boots, my fleece hat and hood up on top and fleece gloves, I was steadily getting colder with hands and feet to go numb any time! In the end Rhonda and I were given Freddie´s blanket that he had on his knee while he was driving! Freddie was a real character who would toot his horn if he saw a police car – to wake them up he said! A new bent on sleeping policemen! We couldn´t sleep of course through all this. WE got to the Canyon and the sun had come out and was hot but still chilly at nearly 4000 metres. There were many people there – all poised with cameras and binoculars nad many ladies in wonderful traditional clothes selling lots of wonderful things in alpacha and Llama wool. I treated myself to one of those lovely earflap hats in a purply blue – look stunning in it (not!). Then we realised that the birds had arrived. All was quiet while we watched these amazing birds fly and then glide over and around the canyon. There were lots of junvenilles (doesnt look right spelling either) and a few young adults who had achieved the black and white markings but not any really huge mature birds. The thrill was none the less absolute. We stood there for about 45 minutes until we had to set off back down the valley to see some of the observation spots on the way. The landscape was awesome. Huge mountains and volcanoes surrounding green, beautifully terraced hillsides, with nestling villages and a river in the bottom. The photographs will not do it justice I know. We had lunch back in Chivay after seeing a small dance performed by some villagers for us on the way down – all in beautiful traditional clothes. Then we set off back to Arequipa. What I havn´t mentioned are the 2 punctures and quick repair to horn (vital in this part of the world), filling up with water and petrol which slowed down our progress somewhat! On top of that Freddie insisting on giving us a running commentary in Spanish that we did not understand – had us in fits at times! Anyway we got back to Arequipa in the blazing heat (for a change) at 5.15pm. We decided to stay the night and leave today for Puno as we are on schedule.
Thought I ought to mention the the museum Santa Catalina where the´ íce maiden´Juanita is kept. This was a gobsmacking experience to see the frozen body of a youg girl sacrificed to the gods on top of Ampato mountain (21,000 feet) by the Incas 500 years ago. All so very well preserved because of the freezing. The body is not a mummy – but still skin etc. WE also went to a monestery where nuns had had a wonderful life until a sister was sent by the pope to sort them out in mid 19th century – huge and wonderful. Must go now Jean and Rhonda back so must get ready to move! Choa!

Not the same kind of trip this time with the places we are visiting not having computers! You.d think those blue footed boobies had a message for the world wouldn´t you? We have now landed in Arequipa after 36 hours on buses and planes. We set off from Tena at 6.30 am on 15th on a bus to Ambato, changes for a bus to Guayaquil (left there on 11.15 bus), then on to Puira Peru where we arrived at 6.30 in the morning after going through the border checkpoint. We then were very lucky to get a flight to Arequipa at 9.30am which stopped at Cusco and Juliaca before landing finally in Arequipa at 5.30pm on 16th!!
The rainforese was all I had hoped for and more. It was hot sticky wet and very beautiful. We went to visit a village to see how they lived and we bought beads to help their economy – salved my conscience a bit! It was fascinating though. We walked to the Napo river and then walked back to out lodge – called aptly, Shangrila! We went on rubber inner tubes down the river below our lodge with a Polish family , now living in America, and had a very good time! We also went on a couple of jungle walks with our guide using his machete to clear the jungle for us to proceed. All very exciting – we were shown jungle toilet paper, leaves to make hats and buckets, leaves and barks to cure you of many different ills, butterflies, and many insects – fortunately for me no snakes!!!
It was hard to leave as we all got on so well with the staff there. I now have diohera and feel pretty bad today but going to book flight from Cusco to Lima for us to get home next Saturday and book a trip to the Colca Canyon to see Condors!! Feel so lucky to be in these places. Off to Lake Titicaca after that. I´ll try to write again but cant be sure.
Ok must dash off to get things done!

Well, we are back here nhow and having a rest day after much travelling about! We arrived in Quito on 3rd at about 5pm and got a taxi to the Hotel Real Audiencia, which has been our base camp if you like until tomorrow. We had showers, some food and then went to bed ready for rising early to catch the plane to the Galapagos at 7 am. We had to be there for 5.30 to meet the guide who was bringing our tickets – she was late but turned up thank goodness. We left Quito in warm jackets but were soon overheated as we hit the Galapagos. We were met by our guide for the trip, Jorge. We were taken to our Yacht, The Yolita and proceded to setle into our very small cabins. I shared with a german girl called Caroline next door to Rhonda and Jean. There were several nationalities as our companions for the 4 night/ 5 day trip, German, Danish,Dutch, Italian, Slovian and English. Luckily everyone had reasonable English and we all got on very well.
The first thing that struck me was that the wildlife were right next you – not a million miles across a field or stretch of water. As we got into the dingy to go to our yacht some sealions were sleeping on the benches and brown pelicans sat on the dingy as we got off it! Gob smacking really. Each day was split into a ´hike´ in the mornings on one of the islands while it was cool, followed by snorkelling or swimming off the beach or snorkelling for the daring ones off the little boat we had. some of the others went diving while we sunned ourselves on board. We would travel in the afternoon and usually go onto another island before boarding ready to move overnight or anchor up. We got into the ´wet´landings and the ´dry´landings. We were usually greeted on the beaches with sea lions and/or iguanas (land and marine – different colours and head gear!) When we travelled overnight it was very sick making for us land lubbers because a small boat moves about so much more than a large one. By the end of the week we all had our sea legs and were quite used to walking side to side and rocking as we moved! We saw some incredible wildlife – things have have read about or seen on television but to actually see then within one yard – that was the distance we had to stay to most things! We had to be wary of some sea lions with young ones – they would honk at us to go away! We saw Flamingoes twicew on 2 different islands, blue footed boobies (an amazing blue for those feet!), one with a chick , a white ball of fluff, masked boobies (beautiful), frigate birds, mocking birds – different ones on different islands, sally lightfoot crabs – amazingly bright orange, blue and yellow shells, pelicans as I have mentioned, turtles, some of them saw sharks but I didnt – too frightened to go snorkelling with them – but did see turtles in sea with snorkel and swam with sea lions all round us. On the next to the last day, travelling in the afternoon to reach Santa Cruz isalnd we had dolphins swimming next to us on the boat – 5 of them – so amazing! On the last night we were allowed to go on land and have a drink and shop. The last day we went to the Charles Darwin Centr to see the breeding centre for the giant tortoises. We also saw Lonesome George, thought to be one of thre last of his species – now thinking other wise and trying to breed with him – he is not reponding to the pressure at the moment! The other interesting thing we saw on Santa Cruz island was a whalers post box set up in 1793 to send post to all over the world delivered by hand. I sent a postcard – could only get one – to my 4 granddaughters – will it ever be delivered to them?
We left the boat and said our farewells to the crew and other passengers and headed for the airport to go back to Quito. The flight was delayed because of the weather in Quito – it was raining heavily when we arrived back here – what a shock after the Galapagos! We were later than we thought so a shower, meal and early bed ready for our trip to La Mitad del Mundo on Friday. That was very interesting even for me who didnt eally understand the lack of West 0 degrees latitude. Got a stamp in my passport to say I was there!
We got a bus back and picke dup our bags and went to ge the bus to Otavalo. It was a 2 1/2 hour journey and we arrived about 5.30pm. Checked into a very cheap hotel $6 or 3.50 pounds!
We had a pizza, a few beers and sent a couple of emails. We got up in time for the market at 8am. Weall spent too much but I was glad to find the ponchos I wanted for the girls – just had to buy a bag to carry them home in – more luggage! We left Otavalo at 1pm and arrived back in Quito at about 3.45pm. We have decide to rest a day here to take stock. Going to Tena to the rainforest on 8am bus tomorrow. We are staying until Thurs/Fri when we will return to Quito to the airport and fly to Lima and then on to Arequipa in Peru. A whistle stop tour but all very interesting. Equador, is I think a bit more prosperous than Bolivia. Buses cheap though – $6 for 5 hour journey for example. Ok I think I am now up to date! Will ad more when I can.

Her and in one piece! this is a rushed memo really to let everyone know I am ok. the Galapagos was out of this world. The yacht was small with 6 crew and 16 tourists. Very seasick at first but as we ended the tour of the islands I got my sea legs. We arrived back on a delayed flight into Quito and had a pot of tea. We were all tired after the quick move from flying out to going on anothe rflight and returning to Quito again. Today we checked out and went to La Mitad el Mundo -or the place on the equator where you can stand on both sides of the world. Came back and now in Otavalo for night before the craft market tomorrow. We are then travelling back to Quito to arrange our trip to the rainforest. We will be in Quito until monday so will write more about the Galapagos then. I felt very emotional at times seeing many wonderful creatures.
Ok then will check in soon. love to you all xx

Well, I spent my birthday in Heathrow airport after changing planes in New York – where it was snowing and freezing cold. little did i know it was preparing me for home! Thick snow all around my caravan when i arrived home on saturday morning. A couple of photos to prove I was there – if it works!

Life is hell here! Slow everything – dont know when to get a beer, when to get a coke, when to get a water! Think, think, think, that,s all I do all day! It,s so hot I can,t do anything else! I did go to the Botanical Gardens today for 3 hours and whilst very wet and tropical, absolutely incredible too. I couldn,t believe the size of some of the plants. Busy Lizzies growing like weeds all over the place and the orchids, yes the orchids, my favourite flower, were amazing. I was in heaven and took nearly as many photographs as the Carnival! I had tea and water and set off back to the hostel for beach wear. The taxis are annoying me with their prices but I am stuck if i dont want to spend hours on some of the local buses. It became quite cloudy on the beach and a wind got up – brill! I bought a beer and settled in my chair whilst everyone else was packing up to leave! I am having a beach day tomorrow and then Thursday is home day – well the beginning of home so i dont think I,ll write on here again. So for this trip I say adios me amigos!
Chao Janxx

Yes glad I went – even though the getting there and the seating arrangements were not all they could have been. Dont go on the bus said the Lonely Planet. There was a good reason for them saying this as I now know! I was suppose dto get a bus to the Metro and then to Sambadromo, getting off at the correct station so that I was on the right side of the stadium when I approached it. So I got on a bus with a very helpful young couple, which did not go to the Metro but direct to the area of the stadium. There were many people on the bus and at one point 5 of them were discussing my route! I was put off by the conductor and waved in the general direction. On the bus were people who were not going to the Carnival but had decided to have a carnival on the bus. Mayhem! anyway I set off up the road and after an hour of walking first one way and then another I eventually reached my gate. Now I,ve been to a few pop concerts in my time and been in large crowds but nothing prepared me for the stadium – 130,000 people all lining the stadium on either side of a long narrow road in the middle. Each school has 80 minutes to get their presentation down the ´road´. Each school has about 4,000 people taking part and the costumes were absolutely stunning – and all really well made. The groups of people were interpersed with floats of such enormous proportions the mind boggled. The first school went down and then about 10.30 it rained and it realy rained! The `seats`were on concrete shelves so glad I had bought a cushion! Very expensive for a ticket for no real seat I thought. Nevertheless, my mind was distracted somewhat by the proceedings! There were people coming round all the time with beer, coke, water etc. and food. Quite an event. When it rained we all bought the plastic pull over macs and carried on! I managed to sit/stand it out until the 4th school had gone down by which time it was 3am. Four more schools were still to go down and i decided I had to go home! I got a taxi back who, knowing he had a captive market, ripped me off with a 80 Real fare (about 26 pounds)! Still I was home to my friendly hostel and I realised I was a star because the younger ones had given in and come back soon after the rain! It´s an over cast day today here so having a lazy time catching up on things like laundry – the excitement never ends here! I´ve sold my second ticket to a young man who had all his money and credit cards stolen – he will have more energy than me to enjoy it!

Chao from Rio!