Freejan

We left Arequipa and got to Puno early evening to a very big change in coldness! It had not been hot in Arequipa but Puno was a freeze your socks off place! We had seen the condors and were now going to see the floating islands of the Uros in Lake Titicaca. The first day we set off to be at the docks by 9am – way too late for the trips to the islands by all accounts, but found an islander from Amantini to take us to his island along with the egg supply for the island and other goods! We sat on top to see the lake and gradually started to freeze! The lake was not what I had expected at first – cant really say what I did expect except perhaps something more romantic – can you understand that? Anyway, it took 4 hours in the freezing cold with blankets over our knees to get to the island – it is now I began to understand the size of this famous lake. We were welcomed on the island, went a little walk round, looked at and bought some of the local crafts to support the islands economy (salve my conscience at my invasion!) and were then given lunch of soup, (amazing) and then chips, egg and rice by the man´s family. We then set off to the peninsula where he told us we had a 15 minute walk to get the bus back to Puno (2 hours). We are all sufering a bit with altitude and to walk was quite hard as it was very up and down – ended up bing half an hour. We then got a collectivo (people carrier thing) which took us back to Puno. It was all enough to put Rhonda off and she stayed back in Puno while Jean and I went on an arranged trip to the Uros islands and Taquile island the next day. We were up at 5.30am and picked up from the hotel at 6.40am. This time it was much more civilised. WE sat in a much better boat – no eggs! – and were warm inside. We stopped first at Chumpi island – an island made of reeds and floating in the lake. We were shown how they made the isalnds, how they bulit their houses, what they ate (reeds near root, fish and birds and a lovely bread they gave us a sample of), and some of their art work which of course they sold to tourists. All very interesting. We then went across to another island in a huge reed boat – it was amazing to just float in such a serene way across the lake. On that island was a trout farm – much smaller scale than we have but we saw a girl feeding them with smaller fish and them all jumping up to catch the food. You could stay on the island in a teepee shaped house for 10 Soles a night ( about 1.50 pounds). We then got back on the boat and sailed for another 2 hours to the Isle Taquile. We were led across the island from the dock which was a steep slope up to the middle of the island where the town square was. It was magical. I loved it all. The way the terraces were farmed, the flowers and trees, all with a back drop of this sparkling blue lake. The lake was much more like a sea – yu couldn´t see the next bit of land in many directions. We bought a few more of their crafts and went for lunch of kingfish, chips and rice and the soup (the wonderful soup) breforehand. A young man sang and played the pan pipes and a local version of a mandolin. We were then shown the local clothes and how they were worn and why – men knit their own hats here and if white and red they are not married and if red or dark colour, they are. Very interesting to see the men knitting their hats! We then set off back for the docks at Puno arriving back at 5.15pm. I had had the day of my life. We were up next day to travel to Cusco. This was a very long drawn out affair – taking 7 and 1/2 hours instead of 6! But now back here and having a free day on my own to relax. WE are staying in a lovely hostal with a huge double wooden door that locks with a padlock afer we have put across the large bolt! We are disappointed about our timing at arriving here as they are celebrating the Inta Rayni – Sun Festival – tomorrow at Sacyhuman – should be an amazing sight but we´ll miss it. The festival is going on in the streets now so we hope to catch bits today. We´ve seen so much – so lucky and SO  tired!!

 ´Til next time! xx

Just catching up while Jean and Rhonda have gone to change some money to Soles before we catch the bus to Puno. Jean has been ill for a few days with diarrhoera (another attempt at spelling!) and hopefully has been to a pharmacy or a clinic (addresses kind permission of Lonely Planet) and will feel better soon. We are here still when we had planned to go to Puno last night but we were too late getting back from our very tiring, but exciting, trip to the Colca Canyon to see condors yesterday. We left the Casa at 2am in the morning and travelled to Chivay in a Mitshubitsi (spelling again!) people carrier thing, which took 4 hours. We had breakfast and then travelled a further 2 hours to the Colca Canyon. We went through a series of emotions and feelings as we set off on this trip. It was amazingly cold in the car – he had no heater! – and although I had 3 layers on with my padded jacket, thick socks and boots, my fleece hat and hood up on top and fleece gloves, I was steadily getting colder with hands and feet to go numb any time! In the end Rhonda and I were given Freddie´s blanket that he had on his knee while he was driving! Freddie was a real character who would toot his horn if he saw a police car – to wake them up he said! A new bent on sleeping policemen! We couldn´t sleep of course through all this. WE got to the Canyon and the sun had come out and was hot but still chilly at nearly 4000 metres. There were many people there – all poised with cameras and binoculars nad many ladies in wonderful traditional clothes selling lots of wonderful things in alpacha and Llama wool. I treated myself to one of those lovely earflap hats in a purply blue – look stunning in it (not!). Then we realised that the birds had arrived. All was quiet while we watched these amazing birds fly and then glide over and around the canyon. There were lots of junvenilles (doesnt look right spelling either) and a few young adults who had achieved the black and white markings but not any really huge mature birds. The thrill was none the less absolute. We stood there for about 45 minutes until we had to set off back down the valley to see some of the observation spots on the way. The landscape was awesome. Huge mountains and volcanoes surrounding green, beautifully terraced hillsides, with nestling villages and a river in the bottom. The photographs will not do it justice I know. We had lunch back in Chivay after seeing a small dance performed by some villagers for us on the way down – all in beautiful traditional clothes. Then we set off back to Arequipa. What I havn´t mentioned are the 2 punctures and quick repair to horn (vital in this part of the world), filling up with water and petrol which slowed down our progress somewhat! On top of that Freddie insisting on giving us a running commentary in Spanish that we did not understand – had us in fits at times! Anyway we got back to Arequipa in the blazing heat (for a change) at 5.15pm. We decided to stay the night and leave today for Puno as we are on schedule.
Thought I ought to mention the the museum Santa Catalina where the´ íce maiden´Juanita is kept. This was a gobsmacking experience to see the frozen body of a youg girl sacrificed to the gods on top of Ampato mountain (21,000 feet) by the Incas 500 years ago. All so very well preserved because of the freezing. The body is not a mummy – but still skin etc. WE also went to a monestery where nuns had had a wonderful life until a sister was sent by the pope to sort them out in mid 19th century – huge and wonderful. Must go now Jean and Rhonda back so must get ready to move! Choa!

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