Freejan

Now just about to go to the airport from Hong Kong – the last stop on my trip. Had a fairly easy day but still lots of walking! I decided to go on the Star Ferry to Kowloon. I seemed like I’d been doing it for weeks as I walked to Fortress Hill metro station, put my Octopus card on the barrier and got on the train to Central. Very crowded like the tube in London. I got off and put of station and walked on the ground and over the road to the ferry terminal. I got on the ferry, the ‘Twinkling Star’ for 10 minutes to the other side in Kowloon. The views across the Victoria Harbour back to Hong Kong island were great. The sun was shining and this made it even more spectacular. I set off from the Canton Railway clock tower, disguised as it was in green netting while cleaning/ repairs were being carried out. A walkway above another walkway alongside the sea made it a very pleasant walk. Opposite across a public garden was the amazing art and culture building. Could I find any cafe to get a cup of tea? No! I have realised that unless you are ‘downtown’ cafes and bars are just not there. There was a Subway and a Starbucks takeaway place but nowhere to sit down! I decided to go back and go to the Hungry Elephant near my hotel for lunch and tea. I’ve never had so little alcohol for ages! Had a walk around the night markets locally and came back yo hotel to get ready for the airport. I am very tired and sorry I have not been at my best to appreciate this amazing city! End of another journey. What’s next?!

I have been out today in this busy crowded place. I felt all day that I needed to stop and be alone, quietly in a comfy chair! I managed to get an octopus card that I needed apparently to pay for things here like metro and other public transport. These are very cheap and it is all very well organised. I really do feel like a novice here! The language is a problem as I don’t speak Mandarin but many people speak English and are very eager to help. I got on a bus to one of the tour bus stopping off points aided by a couple who told me when it was my stop. It was opposite Victoria Park. I went on the tour, getting a stiff neck from looking up at the amazing buildings. I got off at the tram stop that takes you up to Victoria Peak. It was crazy! Loads of people waiting under an overpass to cross the road to join the queue to go on the tram. It is a very old venicular tram built in 1826 originally. The steepness of the hill must have been 45 degree angle! At the top you emerge into an aladdin’s cave of market stalls and shops and restaurants. I proceeded to go up escalator after escalator to get to the peak.
The view was spectacular over 360 degrees. You are given a free recorded audio guide which was excellent. And then down. I had a break for lunch up there – $76 for greek salad, doughnut and large tea – about £7. It took me a while to find the going down tram but managed eventually. Back on the bus to finish the tour. We saw The Fringe Club, one of the oldest buildings in Hong Kong, now an arts centre. Then the Man Mo temple before arriving at the ferry pier. I decided I was too tired to go on the ferry so decided to go back to where I started. We passed the Golden Bauhinia Square marking the spot where the handover to China took place in 1997. I remember Chris Pattern being the governor of Hong Kong at the time. I got off the bus at Victoria Park and decided a walk through the park after all the busy places would be nice. It was. It was separated in gardens, playgrounds for children, sport and exercise areas. I came out and was very pleased with myself that I found the metro/MTR and got on using my Octopus card. I got off at Fortess Hill area where my hotel is and called for a beer before returning to the hotel exhausted. I was going to go out to the ferry tonight to see the light show at 8pm but fell asleep! Tomorrow! On a toilet paper note it is my pleasure to announce that we are back to 2ply! Plugs are British 3 pin and all’s right with the world. I have tomorrow to go to the ferry and across to Kowloon as my flight is 01.10am. Money going fast and not bought anything here except food drink and the tour.

Left Paihia at 2pm after meeting Lorna for a goodbye coffee and escaping an American woman who had ruined my last sit by the quiet sea. Got to Auckland in good time and checked into the YHA , 4 bed female dorm with divan beds. SO civilised! When coming into Auckland I realised as we came over the bridge into town that there was much more to the place than I had imagined. The skyline was great and the harbour full of boats. I have only really seen the busy city side of it. I got a taxi to the airport with my new let’s go for comfort and ease at this stage. My flight was 14.30. I was there in good time prepared in my head for a 3/4 hour flight. How stupid am I?! It was 11 hours and the time difference was 5 hours behind NZ! I never put my flight socks on or took my shoes off, which I usually do on long flights. Brain really not working well! It was just after 9pm HK time when we landed but it was 1am for me. I had not slept on the plane but watched two films – The Artist – wanted to see it for ages and one called something like Any time, any place ….. forgotten. Also watched 6 episodes of Porridge and some Monty Python. Cathay Pacific are very good at feeding you and giving you as many drinks (alcoholic and other) as you want. The upshot of this rather unprepared journey is that today I am a bit disorientated. I got to bed at around 4am my time and up at 10 HK time. Not sure how many hours sleep I had but was in time for breakfast. Now here is another new experience for me. The ‘lobby’ of the hotel is very shiny white and open plan with lime green bits and silver ornaments. The eating area for breakfast is across and behind the reception desk. The across bit has a dividing wall with serving ‘counters’ in each one. You help yourself to what I would describe as a continental breakfast on cardboard plates and with cardboard cups. Machines dispense the coffee but for tea drinkers (very me!) there is a hot tap to make your own with cartoned milk! It tasted ok to be fair but in my room only jasmine tea ( which is ok but not ok all the time) and no milk even if I used my own teabags. T’was a sorry sight as I turned off the light last night leaving the awful tea. There were croissants and rolls, apples(granny smith), butter and jam. Also bottled water. The majority of people were dressed for work and seemed like we were all in a commuter cafe somewhere. Two very kind American girls sorted me out as they had been here a couple of days and had sussed it all out. Hope I’m not boring anyone who may read this! Replenished I went back to my very clean well equipped room – such luxury after the last few weeks, and had a shower, examined a map and decided today would be an orientation day and planning day. I have had to book an extra night as on checking my flight home I realised I don’t fly until 1.10am on 26th. I have to check out at 12 noon so wouldn’t have chance to shower and change before i set off for the airport.
I have been out (in the rain) to suss out where the metro train is and walked around my hotel in a large block. All very clean. There are old trams, buses and other traffic on the roads. The ducking and diving between umbrellas is a fine art here! I found one and thought ah this is useful only to find as I entered a cafe, that it wouldn’t go down! I used it until I got to the hotel and then gave it to the doorman to dispose of! Mad English woman!
I am now back in my room having decided to go on a bus tour tomorrow and on the ferry to Kowloon where the lonely planet guide online recommends a walk along the harbour. There is so much to see that i have had to make a short list. Odd being cool in room with air conditioning – not had that in NZ.

Now in Paihia, Bay of Islands to sleep. I arrived in Auckland about 7.30 and got a taxi to Camel Nomads and my bed for the night. It was a pit of a place – like an apartment with a living room/ kitchen with ‘bathroom’ off and then 3 rooms of each with an 8 bed dorm of bunk beds in them. A very kind German girl gave up her bottom bunk for me to sleep on the bottom bunk. The bed was clean. The curtains were falling off the rails. The bathroom floor was flooded. One of the two showers had no door! I had a very brief shower and got into bed not caring if I snored or not!
Up at 6.30 and off to Paihia by 7.30. My milk had gone off so I had some black tea and threw half of it away. Many of the girls there were Chinese doing an English course. I felt so sorry for them. I complained about the bathroom on my way way out.
Footwear! I can’t remember if I have raised this subject before but flip flops ( to us) are the most popular footwear for females and males around here. Here they are called jandles but in Australia they are thongs! Many butch young men and women go barefoot. This to me breaks all the rules of travelling. Look after your feet!
Most do have a pair of trainers for walks.
In Paihia I have booked into the YHA in a private double room! Very expensive at $90 a night – £45. All I have done since I arrived yesterday lunchtime is get bread and milk, had 2 beers, done my washing and slept. Wifi is very poor so in cafe now to do this having had another 2 beers today with a sandwich.
Bliss! I am really tired and after this I am going to the supermarket for fruit and back to my bed! My cafe is brilliant. It is like a pier jutting out into the sea, overlooking the islands. All white furniture and sail like roofing. The sun is glistening on the water and I know why I go travelling! That’s me in my aussie soles jandles (first ever not to hurt me between my toes!) over and out for now!

Last night was a wonderful experience for me. I had nearly cancelled going as I said because i thought it would be patronising to the Maoris, but it was not as I expected. We arrived at their ceremonial hall, greeted by T ( name too hard to remember) and went through the welcome ceremony. Women first followed by men. We paused half way to the entrance to leave our thoughts of worries about people or other issues. We went into the hall with no shoes, hats, food or drink to be taken in. The hall was almost church like but had large ceiling to floor maori carvings in red – a bit like totem poles really. There were photos of ancestors who had passed away. We could not take photos of the carvings or the photos but the people there could be photographed. The women sat down behind the men as we were addressed in maori by T’s brother. We then lined up to do hungi – touching noses twice – with PeeWee the brother and in turn with each other. We now were part of the family and everything relaxed. These were contemporary maoris and dressed in every day clothes. T explained that it was the younger generation who were now trying to ensure that the maori language and traditions were continued and grew. Maoris are only 12% of the NZ population now. Often the parents or grand-parents couldn’t speak maori. Reminded me of the new strengthening of Welsh culture and language at home. We were then given a roast chicken dinner – chicken, roast potatoes, roasted squah and sweet potato, peas and gravy – YUM! This was followed by fruit salad, chocolate pieces and custard (cold). We were given time to shower before the ‘show’. This was part demonstration, part audience participation and part performance. There were two women and two men. The women demonstrated how to use Poi balls – in the past stones wrapped in grasses and skins on a rope. These produced a beat on their arms or added interest to a dance (reminded me of drum majorettes). The men did a dance with sticks and then they were joined by the women. This reminded me of Morris dancing. We joined in a dance very similar to the okey cokey and then split into a men and women group. The men ( only 3 in our group). We were taught how to do a Poi dance (with the balls on a rope). I was in fits of laughter as my balls were all over the place and hardly in line with everyone else! Anyway, the men did the haka and we did the dance. I am hoping that one of the girls is sending me a video of our dance. Such a fun evening. T came into the hall as we were going to bed to answer more questions. All very natural. We all put our mattresses down in the hall and added sheets, pillows and cases, sleeping bag liners and sleeping bags. We settled down after a maori story from T. It felt odd in one way but absolutely ok on another. We were given breakfast before we left at 7.30! I was dropped off in Rotorua at 8am only to be told I couldn’t get on a bus until 3.40pm. It will be 7.30 before I get to Auckland. Never mind, Paihia for 3 nights after that. Been to the Museum here in Rotorua and had a walk round Government Gardens which was interesting. Got a really good photo of a Pukeko and chicks there. Going for some lunch now and then will be time for the bus. Bye for now!

Well basically I’ve done a lot of travelling to get to here. The night in Wellington after our ferry ride was a shop and eat evening. The views on the ferry were wonderful. Another ‘Sound’ but this time really a sound in that it was made by a river. The landscape at the top of South Island was green, hilly and mainly rural with small towns and cows, sheep and deer grazing in the fields. Wellington was lovely with a mix of old, traditional buildings and very modern ones. We saw the main government office with the 2 flags flying that are in competition for the new national flag. I must say I think it’s time they had a flag without the union jack on it and the silver fern is the most popular symbol here. It was a bit of a shock to see traffic lights and crowds of people – going home or to work. They still had palm trees in the street though. Wellington’s Maori name is Okiwi. Must mention that the scenic route along the coast up to Picton included a place where they had baby doll sheep! These are the ‘hobbits’ of sheep world! Short little legs. The ferry cost $53 if anyone is interested in costs. Nat was leaving us as our driver after Wellington and our new driver was Twinkles – reminded me of my nephew Rowan – tall with red hair and beard. A colourful character. Did I mention that Nat had knocked over and killed a sheep?! It was on the road from Mt Cook to lake Takepo. Big drama. Damaged bus as well. She had never done that before and I think it shook her up – not her fault as it ran out in front of the bus.
I am getting quite a taste for lamb here. I had backstrap lamb at Mt Cook and at Rangitata i had butterfly cut lamb and in Wellington i had lamb rump. Delicious! I ate at a corner bar restaurant called The Tasting Room.
Ok, we entered the North Island and the landscape was very
similar to the top of the north. It was raining and misty and we had a 10 hour drive to Aukland where i would part company with my friends Lorna, Magnus and Fredrik. The young men were from Norway and really friendly. It was Fredrik’s birthday the day we were driving up so we sang happy birthday and did a Norweigen dance in the aisle at one of our stops. I had booked into the Yha, not fancying the Base in Auckland as so big and busy. The only downside was it was up a very steep hill! Not too far fortunately and a Chinese man helped me with my case. Took pity on the gasping old woman! I slept well and was ready to set off with our new driver Pickle. It was a 7.30 start to Raglan and at one point i realised we were driving through the Four Brothers Scenic Reserve. Much more Maori influence up north and not in the same context, but more cows than sheep. We stopped briefly at Waireinga or the bridal waterfall – the moari means leaping waters – very apt I thought! We reached Karioi Lodge about 12.30. What a bwautiful spot overlooking Raglan and the sea. It was almost like a jungle retreat. The rooms were built on the side of a hill in ‘floors’. I was on the 4th and top floor with spectacular views. My driver had to carry my case up all the steps though! Some went surfing, some to the beach. I stayed in paradise, read had a little explore, laid in hammock and drank tea until it was time for the group meal of fish and chips picked up by Pickle. Yummy. I watched the last half of Superman film with a can of Heinekan – awful stuff- and then went for shower. I was asleep for 9! Up today and out for 8. I have booked to join the cultural event this evening – maori hospitality. I’ll see how it goes! Kiaroa!

No wifi last night in Rangitata so having a quick catchup. I am able to do this because my whale watching was cancelled due to no whales being around. Can only think it’s because it is Sunday and they are having a day off! We left beautiful Mt Cook as the sun rose on Mt Sefton and wound our way to Rangitata rafting place. Apparently they stepped in for Stray after the earthquake in 2011 demolished their accomadation in Christchurch. I wasn’t looking forward to it but the wooden chalet style building with it’s large deck was a little oasis! I needed this after a rather frustrating time in Geraldine where the ATM retained my card. I spent the stop phoning the Natwest to complain. I now only have my credit card so i have told them I will need compensation for all the extra cost of phoning UK for the third time during my trip and the charges I will incur on my credit card for withdrawing cash. Most of the hostels prefer cash. We drove alongside lake Tekapo and stopped in Tekapo town to see the old church of the good shepherd. Nat (short for Natalie) our new driver told us the tale of a man called McKenzie and his sheepdog Friday. He was a sheep rustler and was often put in jail but escaped. Friday would watch the sheep while he went off rustling. Eventually the courts got so fed up with him they told him he could go free if he left the country. He went to Australia apparently. Our next stop was the Big Tree Walk in Peel forest. I really enjoyed the lovely green forest and the ‘Totara’ redwoods were impressive. We arrived at Rangitata about 1.30pm and while a few went rafting most of us took the opportunity to sit out on the deck and rest. It was peaceful, quiet and sunny. Nat had bought food to do a gourmet bbq with apple crumble, custard and honeycomb ice-cream for pudding. Delish or ‘Sweet!’ as they say round here. It was a bit of of a shocker when she told us we were leaving at 6.40am in the morning so I had a shower, finished my bottle of wine and went to bed!
It was another glorious sunrise this morning as we set off for our first stop at Christchurch. Quite a few were either stopping off here or catching planes and a few joined us. Nat had to pick up a new bus so we were later than normal leaving the airport. She had all sorts of complications with people and had to stop several times to make phone calls. I finalised my itinery with Stray and booked at the YHA in Aukland for the 3 nights I will be going there. It was lovely to arrive in Kaikoura again and I was excited about going whale watching – but alas alack it was not to be! The compensation is that i have saved the money and i am staying in a private room at the lazy shag with an ensuite! Oh the luxury! Washing is done and now this so I will go to post my postcards and have an ice-cream. I also need to do a bit of shopping. Hard work all this!

I will try to be brief as I get more and more tired each day; especially as moving every day at the moment. O have hopefully gained a day as the weather was so blustery in Invercargill that they cancelled the ferry back from Stewart Island so the people there couldn’t go back to Queenstown that day. I then got a place on the bus from Queenstown this morning so only had to stay one night. During the morning yesterday we went for a short tour round the Catlins starting at the Southland museum and gallery where I saw a Tuatara – a rare lizard peculiar to New Zealand- a new father in 2009 at the age of 111 years! Strangely enough we had stayed at the Tuatara lodge. We stopped first at Waipapu Point to see a lighthouse that was built there after a ship wreck in 1881 when 131 people died. The wind was amazingly strong and we had a job to stay stood up! The toilets there were a seat on a pedastal over a hole which allowed the strong wind to blow up your bottom! Very disconcerting! We drove along to Porpoise Bay where I saw a yellow eyed penguin just as it set off for the sea. Again, we had to hold on to each other to stay up. No wonder the ferry was cancelled! We settled in for the drive up to Queenstown looking at the amazing views as usual round here!
I had a bad night in The Base at Queenstown due to some very noisey room mates coming in drunk at 3am. I had some chicken fatijas and a couple of beers and tried to go to bed early.
We had a new driver from Te Anau – Heemi- I think I mentioned him. He drove us up to Queenstown and today Natalie picked us up. Very organised woman. I sat in the front with her for the half day drive up to Mt Cook/ Aoraki. We stopped at Mrs Jones’s fruit shop again and then proceeded to drive along and over the Lindis Pass ( named after Lindisfarne in Scotland). Stunning scenery AGAIN all the way. We passed Twizel, a pop up town made so that an electricity station could be built, with a view to dismantling it when the work was done. The people liked it there so built a town!
As we approached our lodge we got the first sight of Mt Cook with Lake Pukagi in the valley below. It never ceases to amaze me how pale milky blue the water is in these glacial lakes. I am now catching up on myself and decided I need a sleep while the keen young things go for a hike. Tramping is the name for long hikes here. Hoping to do whale watching when back in Kaikoura. Might as well be hung for a sheep…..money going down down!

The sun was shining as we left Te Anau. I had had time to work out my journey from here on as I had to meet the bus at 11.30. The scenery was lovely especially as I sat on the front seat next to the driver – Heemi – a Maori! Now this is important to me because so far I’ve not come across many Maoris. I had a chat with him and asked if he felt the society was integrated. He said yes he thought it was. Seems to me I’ll find more in the north. I hope so.From seeing Mt Luxmore standing above the range in front of us, I watched as the hills subsided and by Riverton (a fishing town) the land had crops on it as well as animals. We stopped at McCracken’s rest, a viewpoint at TeWaeWae Bay
As usual the coastline looked stunning. The only other thing to note was the abundance of red hot pokers and agapanthas lining drives or decorating islands in the middle of roads. They have been there ( especially the agapanthas) all through my journey. I am now in Invercargill for the night. A large town with many older buildings and a scottish influence. The ferry to Stewart Island goes from here. Nothing much else to say about it really. Got some shopping and looked what was on at the cinema but all except one film started at 6.15 at the latest with only one film I didn’t fancy – 13 or 30 hours can’t remember which. So shower and bed for me. Off at 10am in the morning for Queenstown for 2 nights that i don’t want to do but the bus is full for day after one night. Ah well I must admit defeat with this bus company. Night.

Not a good day today. Started badly in the middle of the night when the woman above me on my bunk woke me up with a torch shining in my face saying “you are snoring”. I apologised and said I couldn’t help it – after taking my ear plugs out to hear what she was saying.I stayed awake for a while hoping she could go back to sleep. I know she had had a bottle of Merlot so I thought she’d sleep well!
So, I slept til 9.30 and got up leisurely planning only to walk to the wildlife centre – a 35 minute walk along the lake. Had shower, put a load of washing in and cooked bacon and myshrooms