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Archive for August, 2004

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The King of Gruff

Thursday, August 12th, 2004

Uganda, 1984
I found a cheap room in a Somali-run hostel and met fellow travellers: two black Amerikans who I had met briefly in Bangui and a Sudanese man who immediately offered me tea. But although I spoke to other travellers, I did not find any companions.
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100 km trek (3) – The Ruwenzori mountains

Wednesday, August 11th, 2004

Zaïre 1984
I awoke at dawn to the rustling of two rats running across the beams above my head. One nearly fell but caught itself — just.

I was up to an early start to cover as much distance as possible as it was clear that there would be no transport. No vehicle had come through the village in a week. I would have to walk all the way to Beni.
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100 km trek (2) – the enchanted stream

Tuesday, August 10th, 2004

Zaïre, 1984

I spent the night on the floor of the hut, rolled into my tent. There was just about room. When I woke up the first rays of the sun had just begun to filter through the roof. Through a hole in the wall I looked out to the other leaf huts and the forest beyond. A few ants were sluggishly crawling up one of the sticks that formed the wall, still affected by the morning chill.
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The 100 km trek (1) – the gold-digger camp

Monday, August 9th, 2004

Zaïre, 1984
The quickest and easiest to the Ugandan border was via Beni where I hoped to meet Sophie and Roland again or else find another lift in direction Kenya. I left the house of the good doctors in Mambasa at ten, bought two bananas and one avocado and sat down by the roadside, waiting for a lift. A passer-by stopped and told me a jeep would leave for Beni from the catholic mission. I asked the way.
“2 km, straight on!”

— That was the start of my five-day trek to Beni.
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Giant snails and giant grubs in Kisangani (notes)

Sunday, August 8th, 2004

Zaïre, 1984
Notes from 10 days in Kisangani:

On the Market I bought two giant land snails (“more protein in each than a steak!”), declined the offer of a wriggling grub the size of my forearm and found a kind of berry that tasted of apples. To me that was a miracle. A sign that I had been right to ontinue the journey on my own. I did not have to be homesick any more — missing the taste of apples.
One of the snails escaped and I set the other one free.
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Into Zaïre

Sunday, August 8th, 2004

Zaïre 1984
For once there was no hassle with emigration. A cop pointed the way to the river where a few dug-outs bobbed in the water. Next to them, some men were sitting drinking beer under a couple of straw roofs — it was after all nearly 8 am. As soon as I showed up with my rucksack, one of the boat owners came over and we haggled a fare. There was one other passenger, an elderly man wearing a straw hat.
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My first big break?

Sunday, August 8th, 2004

Look what I found in my e-mail when I got back to my computer after a week away — a reply from travelerstales.com!
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