Border Fun
I had great plans to have this entry with photos. But these computers have yet again got the better of me. All the photos I would have used are available here http://clairecanning.smugmug.com/Travel/380032
Four days after arriving in Mancora I was packing up yet again. This time though, I was packing up a 2006 Land Cruiser, which, I can tell you is a lot easier than squashing your life into a rucksack.
My new trevelling buddies were Sharan, a doctor from Malaysia who’s really Indian, and Marco, his 25 year old tourist guide from when he was in Argentina who he decided to invite along for the trip. Marco is a scout and his scouting abilities came in very handy during our time on the road.
Joining us on leaving day was Leo, my ex-room mate from Mancora who is travelling South America on his BMW motorbike.
First stop was Tumbes where Leo had to get a new Ecuadorian visa after a nasty passport robbing incident back at the hostel (before I arrived so I was cleared of anything). But when on holidays one rarely thinks to check what day of the week it is. And the four of us rolled up to the passport office on a Sunday morning expecting to be let in and issued with a new visa on the spot.
Needless to say, there was no visa issuing and Leo had to make the decision to go back and chill in Mancora until Monday morning or try his luck with us.
So on the four of us went, a united front towards the border. I had my own problems, having a Peruvian visa that expired almost a month before. I´d heard that a few young ladies had managed to charm their way past the officers without paying the fine. So I felt I had to prove I was just as charming as them and get through as well without parting with the last of my Peruvian Soles.
The event was most stressful for Marco, who took it upon himself to help myself and Leo. Because my Thai friend Leo has a brand new passport he didn´t have a Peruvian entry stamp so had no way of proving to the officials that he was there legally. He was taken off to an office to be quizzed about his time in Peru. Think they were trying to see if he knew of events that had happened there over 90 days ago therefore knowing he had overstayed his welcome. I believe money changed hands and he got his entry and leaving stamp there and then. So he now has an entry stamp that is dated before his passport was issued. Magic!
Marco and Sharan sailed through customs, having everything in order. We were asked a few question like why an Argentinian, Malysian, Thai and Irish person were travelling together in New Zealand and Swiss vehicles. I also got asked if Sharan was my husband, well there is only a mere 38 year difference between us!
Next it was my turn to try get through. All I had to do was walk up, somehow get a stamp and leave. I was asked if I realised my visa had expired a month ago. I gave the man a shocked expression and said it could not be, I had asked for a 90 day visa not a 60, there had to be a mistake. So I too got rushed into the back room, Marco following close behind to make sure I didn’t get flogged. I managed to talk my fine down from $30 to $10. I was happy with that.
I thought the excitement was finished then, but this border was to be a lot more fun! We had to go through the town called Huachillas that straddles Peru and Ecuador. This was where we had to sort out the vehicles’ documents. Sunday was a fun day to go through that place. The whole town was closed off to cars for the markets, but seeing as we tended to get lost on detours we asked if we could go through. The cop gave a kind of ‘It’s your funeral’ type of answer and opened he barrier. I think the detour would have been easier. People had to move their chickens and their carts to let our massive beast of a 4×4 through. Don’t quite know how Leo survived it out back. In the middle of the town was the bridge connecting Peru with Ecuador, half of it painted red and white and half blue, yellow and red.
We made the horrible mistake of parking on the Ecuadorian side of the bridge while still registered in Peru. A crowd decended upon us to usher us the 2 meters back to the Peruvian side. The bridge was only the size of your average kitchen, but I could hardly see it under the people and produce being peddled between countries.
The lads went off to do their men thing with the officers in the office. It was decided the jeep could look after itself so I was assigned the motorbike to look after. It seemed onions were badly needed in Ecuador, as they were being pushed over by the cart load from Peru. Exotic animals seemed to be what the Peruvians needed because they were being carried south. I had some people try to sell me monkeys and tortoises with coloured shells. I tried to be reasonable and explain my situation but they insisted the animals didn’t need care or space, they’d just sit happily on my shoulder for ever.
I got asked a lot of questions about my bike’s engine while standing on that bridge, to which I could only muster a ‘Eh…it’s big’ answer. I saw a dog trot by with a doggy sun hat, doggy jumper and doggy pants. Again, the owner could not understand why I would not want to snap up such a pup.
When the men emerged they again had to move the vehicles two metres forward because they were now illegally parked on the Peruvian side. Marco and Leo hung around chatting up the local talent while I kept fending away sellers, all the while trying to get closer to Barney the Dinosaur I’d spotted from the car.
Our last bit of excitement for the day was getting our stamps for Ecuador. This time I had the easiest experience. I said I probably wasn’t going to hang around too long so no need to give me too many days there, and he gave me 90. Then the lads asked if they could have more than the 30 their visas allowed and were told not a hope. Leo had the hardest trip to the little window with the tiny hole through which we were supposed to plead our case. Ecuador showed it’s difference to Peru in the way no one would take a bribe, either you have a visa or you go home. We begged and we made big massive puppy eyes (more Marco than me). I decided to be blunt and asked the good man how much money he wanted. Think I almost got sent home with Leo.
So at the end of our 5 hour border ordeal our troop was cut to three. Leo had to return to Tumbes in Peru and wait to be issued a new visa. The three of us packed back into the Land Cruiser and made our way up the country, and were all incredible excited about being in the country that produces the world’s lightest timber. We were off to find timber and see if the light rumour was true.
Tags: 2 - Peru, Border, Ecuador, Peru
cybersusst
woderful story. i like