Berta’s Travel Shenanigans

I have returned to Costa Rican civilization after spending the past 3 weeks in a Jungle Paradise. It really hit me on the last morning when I woke up, yet again, outside, in my hammock, to the sound of the rushing river and forest cover overhead – at this point I had only managed to sleep inside 5 nights of the whole 2 months that I have been in Costa Rica.

We arrived at La Cangreja (spanish for crab) National Park (a relatively new park 1.5 hour drive from Quepos and Costa Rica´s most popular Ntl. park – Manuel Antonio) to begin work on the ¨Black River¨ trail that would connect two ranger stations – one in Santa Rosa to the one in Mastatal. Picture this for an entrance- having to push the bus up the slope to the ranger´s house, heading steeply downhill for 20 minutes with 2 backpacks and a wheelbarrel, forming a human chain to get the backpacks and other equipment across the Rio Negro, and arriving at the Jungle camp site. This site was created by the previous Raleigh group – they macheted the bamboo down and built an amazing communal structure to be used for kitchen set-up and with tables for eating. In order to get ´home-sweet-home´ well-established, the group set to work putting together basher beds (basically hammocks with bamboo poles secured down the side and propped up put A-frame bamboo structures…oh yes, quite a process) put up the hammocks, and got creative making bed-side shelves for ourselves!

On the third day we completed the 5km walk across the park- half of the trail from Mastatol to Santa Rosa had been completed by a 2003 Raleigh expedition. Inspired and a bit nervous about the work ahead we began clearing the trail and what an amazing experience! We worked hard in the mornings (must admit I am a natural at mattocking, despite inflaming a tendon in my right arm that resulted in weird creaking noises) and made huge progress on the trail. We completed almost 2 km, which made a good 40 minute walk to work in the morning.

The group was also brilliant – caring, giving, and good sports for most things. The afternoons were spent either chilling out and washing in the river or doing interviews with locals to fully contextual the importance of our work on the trail. The Black River trail will provide local recreational and improve tourism, concentrate visitor (including environmental researchers and other volunteer groups) impact to one area, and also act as a firebreak. La Cangreja is the only forest left in the Puriscal district (all other forest having been cleared for agriculture) and, besides being absolutely stunning, the Rio Negro provides water to more than half a dozen of the towns that stretch to the coast. Having a national park in their area also instills a major sense of pride and awareness in the local residents as to the importance of conservation efforts.

A few hi-lights include heading to Jaco and Playa Hermosa for a mid-phase beach break (included being thrashed by large surging waves, waking up to the view of the ocean, and seeing alligators in the nearby river!); having a massive downpour of rain, which made the river impassable (despite psychotic efforts by some to save their washing that had been drying) but was created an influx of energy and excitement into the group; a long-drop (toilet in the ground) throne constructed out of bamboo; long chats in hammocks and on the river rocks (¨Stand by Me¨ anyone!?); cooking amazing meals of potato curry, plantains, guacamole, cracker mush and fry-pan brownie, fresh veggie and noodle salad, herb-poached chicken pasta, raison Welsh cakes, pasta straticelli, Tiko Pina Cider…all out of rations and trips to see Louie, the local fruit and veg guy…Jamie Oliver would be proud; waking up in my lop-sided hammock, with my ass falling out, and a spider beside my face but still feeling very comfortable; and a lovely send-off meal prepared by the rangers followed by a walk uphill to see the sunset…not a bad life indeed.

Phase 2 of my Raleigh adventures has been nothing short of a tremendous success – must admit that although I was looking forward to staying put in one place after the trekking phase I was a bit nervous about being isolated in the jungle with our only contact being the occasional visit from the local park rangers. I must say I never expected to be so blown away by how amazing these young people are…despite some flaws their strengths and good-heartedness definitely dominate. I am 100% excited for my next phase – living and working in a Nicaraguan community.

This entry was posted on Monday, March 17th, 2008 at 2:51 pm and is filed under Raleigh phase. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.