Nicaragua is closed
First and foremost – CONGRATS! to Joline and Derek on their engagement. Haha, managed to get a call in from the Nicaraguan border to hear the news. This also brings me to a very important travel tip that I subsequently acquired via situational learning: do not do any kind of currency exchange with non-official peeps when you are distracted….! In fact (and I KNOW this will sound very obvious to yall but I did know what I was doing … just didn´t quite pull through in the intelligence part when the time came) if you are travelling across the border only change $20 if you know you can´t get to a bank at the border. Then change the bulk of money @ the bank M&F, 9-5, and bring id. If this isn´t going to work for you, get a quote from more than 1 person, walk away and do the calculations yourself. And don´t be like me and simply ´know´ these tips…actually follow through on them when the time counts. Got a wee-bit ripped off getting into Nicaragua…oops!
Right – so at the time of originally writing this, I was in the internet cafe in Tegucigalpa, the capital of Honduras. Now, was there for 2 reasons: 1) to get oriented around the city as was without any guidebook or map…was going to organized in Nicaragua but, as I will explain later, I had to consider that country ´closed´; 2) I have been followed by some sketchy man who keeps unzipping (rather sneakily!) my backpack…thankfully, I removed all valuables from said pack so there is not much to get at. Still…I tried to make it clear to him that I knew what he was upto. Best plan of attack will involve getting out of the bus district and into the historical part of the city for the day.
Back to how I got here in the first place. Well, I had indeed headed down from La Cruz to the Blue Dream hotel, in Playa Papaturro, with hopes of kitesurfing. Now for anyone who has been ´up west´ on PEI you´ll understand what I am going to attempt to explain. This area of Guanacaste is great because it isn´t super touristy, etc. BUT its got a few services, etc. that are much better enjoyed with a car and a group of friends…imagine arriving in O´leary with no car and flying solo. This was especially obvious when there was no wind (windy season in Costa Rica stops at the end of May so was pushing my luck anyhow) and the buses to the parks and better beaches are a pain to try and get organized for. Alas, stuck around for a day and with very little hopes of wind on the 2nd I decided it was Nicaragua or bust.
As I mentioned in an earlier blog (I think) I was waiting to go into Nicaragua because I had heard of bus and taxi protests – as in no public buses or official taxis going anywhere in the country. I hoped the strike was indeed over as I waited, and waited, and waited some more for the bus from La Cruz. Became more and more tempted to just hop into a gypsy cab to the border, which is only 20-30 mins away…especially as there were older women and gringos in them. But, as a responsible, solo, female traveller, I did not take the risk. Instead, I remembered that patience is a virtue and finally got onto the bus for the border. Crossing the Nicaraguan border by foot was quite an interesting experience – wandering aimlessly, asking people ´Donde este Nicaragua?´ (a stupid question I am sure to some…), walking through a hole in a fence, and across a large truck park…no signs anywhere for ´migracion´. Made it successfully and promptly found out that yes, indeed, the strike was still on – and basically was wished good luck trying to get anywhere´s from the border. Geez, thanks. Always quick to notice fellows gringos, I met Lynn and Simon, a British couple who were also temporarily stranded. We discussed a few plan of attacks…and then we met ´Blue´ – yep, as in “you´re my boy Blue”; an American-turned-Costa Rica real estate developer. He told us how much the ´private/unofficial´ taxis (found through some random gateway into Nicaragua) should cost to our desired locations – mainly Rivas or Managua (the capital). Basically, instead of a $5 bus ticket an $80 taxi would be required for the latter.
The first ´taxi´ made us change to the back of a pickup 1km outside of Rivas because its windshield had already been cracked with rocks thrown by protestors. Then the pickup truck, despite my banging on the side of it, drove past the bus agency and to the other side of town. And then told us there was no way to get back. A bit of bad spanish and some (I would call now famous) “I´m a lost Dawson in a foreign country” eyelash battering found our little trio piled back into the pickup to the bus agency. Quite a scenic tour I must say.
So we made a decision to leap-frog Nicaragua – was going to be too expensive to travel and I didn´t want to risk shouldering that…so off I went with Lynn and Simon in yet another ´taxi´ that took a wierd back road to avoid protestors, nearly broke-down, came back to Rivas, switched cars, and headed to Managua for the night. Honduras-bound the next morning (hmmm, we´re on Tues. May 13th by now) at 5am…nice! Found a really good and cheap inn right up from the bus station, technically in Comayaguela, which is the twin city to the much nicer, more developed capital of Honduras, Tegucigalpa – the two are walking distance from one another but a world apart! Comayaguela certainly has a lot of character – vendor stales EVERYWHERE and you can buy everything from toothpaste to fresh fruit and veg to breakfast. This is where lurking robber dude was.
Tegucigalpa has proper restaurants, pedestrian streets, parks, western food/clothing franchises – even got to see a political rally against the corruption of the current government. Never a dull moment. Ended the day eating @ a really amazing Italian restaurant called Gino´s in the Palmira area of Tegucigalpa (basically where all the nice hotels are). Yum – app, entre, beer, wine, and outdoor patio with a breeze – $22 incl. all taxes and service charges. Not too shappy and slept well that night.
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berta_dawson
Oh, I am so insanely jealous again! I love the “I’m a lost Dawson in a foreign country eyelash trick” hilarious – use what you got to get what you want – atta girl! Sounds like you’re having a blast – so pleased for you buddy! One question: was the border crossing actually legal? crawling through a fence doesn’t sound very typical for a border crossing… either way makes for a great story. Hugs hun, see you soon (looks like you might arrive in time for my nervous breakdown after all!). e:)
Don’t forget my presents Bert. I just ordered a key for your laptop keyboard from Ebay so I should have that fixed by the time you return…
Also the sooner your back the better, Joline has been trying to bond and it would be great if you were here to divert her attention.
Hey Girl,
I’m so glad that things are going good for you and you are safe and that you are using your resources to get around..hehehe. I can’t wait till we are together this summer to hang out and to hear all your stories and pictures to go along with them. When are you getting home again? Talk to you soon!
Love and Miss you