Southern Laos and a curly-haired Frenchman
15 Aug
I constantly remind everyone of how the ‘universe always delivers.’ And how about this. Just as I am a bit tired and lonely of traveling alone… I oh-so-randomly run into a comical and friendly foreigner. Here is how it happened.
I was riding around the Boloven Plateau, admiring the stunning landscape of fruit trees, coffee plants, and swiftly enjoying the downhill ride from Tad Fan Waterfall and the surrounding plateau. Only the road, which on my map is marked in ‘good condition’ turned into a rocky dirt road littered with potholes and dust. I put my mean face on, tensed my quads for the tumuluous and vibrous descent. I hear a common, “Hello!” and I respond with a teeth-gritted half-smile, “Sa-bai-dee!” with barely turning my head to acknowledge the speaker. Curly hair protruding from the motorbike’s helmet? FARANG! I slowed my pace and attempted a conversation.
As it turns out, the curly hair protruding from the helmet is a Frenchman named Same. Sam was also heading to Tad Lo… home of elephant rides, lounging in rivers, and waterfalls galore. He ever-so-kindly rode alongside me for the remaining 20 kilometers, even offoring to push me up the few steep hills (I declined, NOT SAFE!) We conversed over the loud buzzing motorbike engine, and laughed a lot. Whoa, a friendly foreigner! Score! We decided to stay at the same guesthouse and enjoyed a lovely dinner overlooking the river.
After spending the next few days together I came to some conclusions. One, I actually prefer traveling with someone. Two, I really enjoy Laos culture. Enough to totally change my southbound plans to return north and have a plethora of adventures with Sam. Three, I LOVE GOING SLOW. The pace of this country totally matches the pace of my bicycle, my breath, my brain, and the thoughts bubbling around inside of it. So Sam and I were northbound, open to whatever experiences laid ahead. We had a great time, he even rented a bike from Vientiene so we could have a short cycling trip! And in the words of Against Me! – “..And the walls contain a resonation, laughter, and conversation… It was fun while it lasted, but now we should be going!”
So yes. The bike. During it’s Nth repair job, velo (french for bike) is upside down and taken apart. I realize the damage inflicted on this unprepared bicycle soul creature. Two broken spokes, tons of scrathes, and ghetto-taped wooden blockers so my saddlebags don’t act as baseball cards and clothespins. Oi ve. My brakes are so strained that they don’t even work any more. This is the way I do things, I’m realizing. Same as my ghetto vehicles I sported in Jersey. Bronc, the deathscort, etc. I am always putting more money into fixing these modes of transport than I would by simply buying something of quality.
The process of replacing a spoke is a curious one. I wonder if the mechanic had ever done it before? It involved lots of hammering, forming new tools using a big blue flame and a pool of water, and then making quick motorbike runs to other shops for different tools that appear to be useless. My mechanic seemed to know what he was doing, his eyebrows were pursed tightly and his expression screamed “I will not give up!” The lesson: The process of elimination is very useful in mechanics. Try something, if problem still exists, try something else. Over time a seasoned mechanic has learned so many pathways to solving a problem that the solution appears a bit more quickly. I’m growing to respect tinkerers, scientists, mechanics, and problem-solvers much more these days.
Laos has treated me kindly. I will be forever in her debt.
It’s the calendar I’m not so happy with these days. In only one weeks time I will be tied down with double-knots to an apartment, part-time job, and students galore in Surat Thani; southern Thailand. I’m looking forward to having my own teapot, toilet, and yoga space, but distress at the plentitude of non-explored Asian territory. Cambodia will have to wait until next year.
As for now, I enjoy every day with squeaky-old velo. Enjoy the photos! <3
MRumianowski
fun times Melissa! Laos sounds incredible. I’m with you in Cambodia… and India…
I just wanted to point out that the advertisement that come up at the end of you blog is some miracle treatment to “Treat Curly Hair”. Kinda funny considering your blog title speaks of a curly-haired french man… the internet is ALIVE! it’s stylish, straight and it’s listening to your every clickety click…
Lissa,
I loved talking to you last week, as much as I loved seeing you in all these pictures. You look so relaxed and happy. It’s true; I think of you all the time, especially when you see a butterfly. Can’t imagine how you must struggle with that bike…enjoy while you can,
Love you lots,
Momma
Oma says:
“Good Luck in your new job, and keep on getting new experiences so you can tell a lot of stories. Write me a letter with your new address so I can write back to you. I can hardly picture a day with you again. Such a world traveled lady!”
Love Oma