There’s such a lot of world to see

The next few days in Perth were just as busy as the first.  Mike kept up the standards of Rollos tours well, and I’m pretty sure he’s missed his true calling.  Best tour guide in town (goes to all the places the red bus doesn’t!).

The first stop, somewhat oddly, was the dead centre of Perth.  The cemetery (thanks mum for the joke!).  But hang on.  Before you start thinking that Mike has lost his marbles, this is apparently the best place to see kangaroos in Perth – wild ones, anyway, which is always, always better than seeing them caged up.  Dusk and dawn are the best times to spot them, but we were a bit later than that, so weren’t hugely optimistic.  However, the roos must have heard I was in town – because boy, did they put on a show for me.  Just coming round a corner, we looked up to one particular green lawn and there were loads of them – must have been a good 40 or 50 of them, just hanging out, eating, hopping a bit.  So funny, so strange, one of nature’s practical jokes.  I’ve seen them on tv, of course, but was lucky enough to get quite close up to them for the mandatory million photos.  One in particular had a joey in her pouch, so I was convinced she was going to either leg it or box my ears, but no, she seemed to like having her photo taken.  Result!

Then, just to make sure the tours were complete, Mike took me out into the hills surrounding Perth.  This would complete the list of the valleys, the beaches, the city, and the hills.  Every face of Perth was covered on this amazing tour.  It’s a different world up in the hills – very quiet and peaceful, although if I was settling there I’d have done the same as Mike and headed for the beach.  The houses in the hills are surrounded by bush, and so are always at risk from bush fires.  I was amazed to hear that the majority of bush fires are started deliberately.  Considering the damage, destruction, and heartbreak they can cause, this was a truly shocking thing to hear.

Our destination out in the hills was a little place called The Packing Shed.  Mike had discovered this on one of his previous jaunts out into the country, and I don’t know how he ever found it – it’s a real hidden gem.  We sat inside (too cold to be outside), soaking up the atmosphere provided by the lovely, lovely ladies who ran it.  Like a couple of old dears ourselves, we ordered a pot of tea for two and some cake each.  All fabulous, and we nattered for ages and put the world to rights.

Beverages were firmly the focus of the day that day, as the next stops were a beautiful winery with amazing views down across the valley, and, finally, a great brewery – and, best of all, by now the weather had picked up and outside seating was definitely on the menu.  More chatting – we’re pretty much in the same place politically, so we had lots to talk about!  Back at the house, I had a wonderful time chatting to mum on Skype for the first time since I’ve been away (thankyou LOADS to both Mike and Joan for your help sorting that one out – I appreciate it, from the bottom of my heart).

On Saturday, I had my first big night out in Australia.  Neil and Laura had a friend whose 30th birthday it was (how old!), and I was very kindly invited out to the party.  A big group of us first met in a pub, then were bussed out to the Duckstein Brewery in the Swan Valley.  It’s a real big German oompah type place, with lots of beer, wine, and German food on the menu.  We were in a marquee outside, so we were very glad of the heaters provided!  I loved trying the wine there (such a joy, still, after so many months of enforced beer drinking in Asia), and I liked the food as well, though Neil and Laura were a tad disappointed with theirs.  Should have gone for the good old steak, guys!  Much drinking and chatting later, we were once again on the bus (much livelier this time – wonder why?!), and then headed to a club.  Where I got the highlight not just of my trip, but I think of the year (or my life even!).  I got stopped by the bouncer, wereupon the following conversation took place:

Bouncer:  I’m going to need to see some id, love

Me:            (Barely able to speak with laughing): Do you know how old I am?

Bouncer:  I’ve got no idea

Me:             I’m going to be 30 in 10 days time

Bouncer:  Get in

Lovin it.  Must be all the stress that travelling brings on!

We all danced up a storm, and I loved dancing to Kylie in Australia.  Doesn’t get better than that.  We were there till late, and then back to Neil and Laura’s for the night.

The next day everyone was a bit tender around the edges (especially Neil, who could barely talk!), so it was a quiet one.  Laura and I took their dog, Bailey, for a walk, basking in the sunshine, and then it was back to Mike and Sheila’s for my first Aussie Barbeque.  Really ticking everything off the ‘to do’ list at a fast old rate!

On Monday, I took myself into Perth for the day, using their brilliant public transport system.  Clean, efficient, easy to follow.  A gem, as is the city.  It’s quite a small city, and the nice folks at Lonely Planet had helpfully suggested a walking tour that would take me to all the sights.  I followed that, and it really struck me how much I like Perth.  Yes, as a city it’s relatively quiet (especially in Winter), but it was homely and friendly, with some lovely old – and new – buildings, and friendly people – someone stopped me as he saw me looking at my map, and just wanted to make sure I knew where I was going.  How nice.  I had lunch down by the river, next to the very strange rocket-like bell tower which has got mixed reviews in Perth, and then did a spot of shopping.  What a good place.

And that was virtually that for my stay in Perth.  Neil and Laura came round for dinner that night (chicken in marsala sauce with mash – another one of my favourites!) – and then it was time for farewells and to go to the airport for my flight just after midnight.  It was sad to say goodbye to the Aussie Rolstons, but yet at the same time, I’m so happy that I’ve got to put faces to names that have been familiar for so long, and got to know another branch of my wonderful family.  I’m so very grateful for Mike, Sheila, Neil and Laura for making me feel so very welcome and feel so wonderfully at home straight away.  It was exactly what I needed after so long away from home, and I can’t wait to see you all again – soon!

Landing in Perth was strange. Flying there from Hong Kong we’d seen the most amazing sunrise out of the plane window – a fitting metaphor, I guess, from a new city, country, and continent in one swoop. It was a breath of fresh air to arrive somewhere so completely familiar, even though I’d never been before. The signs were in my language. It was even cold, just like back home! My first taste of the legendary Australia laid-back attitude was with the lovely immigration people. I’ve always wondered why immigration officials round the world are some of the most grumpy people you could meet, as if they’re doing you a favour by allowing you to come into their country. Australia, though, was a breath of fresh air. The woman was chatting to me about my plans and so on, and then asked me if I was staying with family while I was here. I told her I was, and she asked what relation they were to me. How to explain this one? Mike’s grandmother and my great-grandmother were sisters. I think that makes us 4th cousins, and I wasn’t going to work that one out so early in the morning. I simply laughed, and said it was a long story. Can you imagine doing that at any other immigration point in the world? The rubber gloves would be snapped on before you could say anything further.

My flight was early, but I only had to wait a few minutes before Mike was there. We’d never met before, but recognised each other from photos and, I guess, that family feeling! And with that, the tour began, and didn’t stop until I left Perth six days later. Mike explained that the airport was on the opposite side of the city to Mullaloo, where he and Sheila live, and began pointing out sights on our way. It was amazing to stop at my first Australian beach, and, even though it was really early in the morning and pretty chilly, there were surfers out in the water, trying to catch the big early waves. Rather them than me. Back at the house, I was made to feel at home instantly, such is Mike and Sheila’s wonderful hospitality. I met Sheila and their crazy dog, Gabi, when they came back in from their walk. I’d heard lots about Gabi, but nothing had prepared me for her playfulness. She’s as demanding and as sweet as a toddler, and all she wants from life is to play. And why not?

After a spot of lunch and some settling-in, Mike decided to get me out and about in Perth. As we headed to the car, he said the magic words. “Do you fancy going to see some of the wineries?” Music to my ears indeed. We headed out into the Swan Valley to two of the biggest wineries in the area, Sandalfords and Houghtons. My first proper introduction to Australian wine, it was wonderful – both were run by friendly, knowledgeable people who helped us on our quest to taste lots of lovely wine. From the final one, Mike got a couple of bottles to take home and I couldn’t believe the reasonable price considering the quality. I was going to like this country. Things got even better back at the ranch. Sheila, a brilliant cook, had made a delicious roast dinner, the perfect antidote to five months of noodle overload in Asia. And just when I thought it couldn’t get any better, the piece de resistance came out, apple crumble, my favourite which Sheila had remembered me writing about on here. How kind is that! Due to a combination of little sleep, much wine, and wonderful food, I hit the sack early and slept like a rock until the next morning.

I was glad I’d had the early night, as my feet weren’t allowed to touch the floor. It was a sunny winter’s day in Perth, so we made the most of the sun for a whistlestop tour. Our first stop was the beach at Mullaloo, Mike and Sheila’s local. The white sandy beaches and turquoise sea weren’t, according to Mike, at their best, but it was beautiful to my eyes.

Throughout the day I saw so much of the areas surrounding Perth. King’s Park, the huge public space overlooking Perth city, was a wonderful vantage point to get my bearings from. I’m really impressed with the public areas in Australia. They tend to be well looked after, and real communal areas. The cynic in me suspects they’d be vandalised within 24 hours back home. I was also lucky enough to get to see the spot where Mike and Sheila’s son, Neil, will marry Laura in November. A really beautiful place – the views are stunning! Perth looked like a sparkling, clean, homely city.

Mike pointed out the various suburbs of Perth, including some really posh areas, which we were soon winding our way through, stopping at the Royal Perth Yacht club, scene of our family’s legendary Australia Day celebrations when the gang were over last year. What a spot! The celebrity-style yachts were glinting in the sun, just calling me and waiting for my big lottery win. One of those babies is the first on my list.

Next, we headed out to Fremantle, an old port to the south of Perth. Our destinations this time were entirely gastronomical. We had delicious fish and chips, fighting off the seagulls as we ate, and then went over to the legendary Little Creatures brewery. Another lovely aspect of Australia is not only the independent wineries, but also the microbreweries, all brewing up their own special kinds of beer and ales. Little Creatures is famous throughout Perth and beyond for its good beer and atmosphere. We sat there in the sun, drinking good cold beer and getting to know each other better. Good times.

Our last stop was the beautiful, family-perfect Cottesloe beach. However, Mike didn’t sell it to me when he informed me it was the scene of the last fatal shark attack in Western Australia. I bravely dipped my toes in the water but frankly, even if I was the daredevil type, the water was too cold for swimming. We rounded the day off perfectly, with Italian ice-cream. And I’ll say this for the Italians. They can’t drive, but man, do they know their icecream.

Full, happy, and tired after a whirlwind tour of Perth, we headed back to the ranch. Yep, I DEFINITELY liked it here.

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