Mount Kinabalu: “I am the one and only”
Next up is the ascent of Mount Kinabalu, the centrepiece of World Heritage Site, Kinabalu National Park. I arrive tired, muddy and covered in bites (but still smelling sweetly of citronella, jojoba and tea tree oil repellant) in the early evening. The short walk from the road to the park is an effort at nearly 2000m above sea level, and it’s pretty cold…
Luckily, my frantic phone calls from the street in KL between money running out worked, and I have my reservations for el-cheepo beds here at the Park Headquarters, and tomorrow night at 3273m high at Laban Rata, base camp for the peak. The park is anything but cheap, but they have a captive audience, so they pretty much charge what they want. The staff are extremely happy and friendly, as in the rest of the country. I think Malaysia maybe the friendliest place I’ve been yet.
I am just in time for the climbers briefing, a quick description of the route, and then it’s time for the endless form filling and vast array of fees. Before I leave in the morning, I’ve paid an entrance fee, a climbing permit fee, a guide fee, for insurance and for transport to the gate, and of course for accomodation… It’s a serious business and it’s pointed out that the last part is pretty dangerous: they have closed the peak for the last few days due to the appalling weather conditons related to the typhoons that have been hitting the South China Seas.
Starting at Timophon Gate, with my guide Rowdy we make it to Laban Rata restcamp in less than 3 hours: first to arrive. No-one was allowed the go up this morning, and from the wind and fog I can see why. Whoever decided to put steps up the mountain needs shooting- it really wrecks your knees! There are supposed to be varying flora and fauna on the way up, but it all looks pretty mossy and tree-y to me, and for the last almost vertical bit I’m pretty out of breath. Sea level to 3000m+ in less than a day isn’t the best idea!
Rowdy has the idea that we should go for the summit this afternoon if it’s safe, and I agree even though I’m feeling quite dizzy now. So a very British two pots of tea later, it’s 1.30pm and I’m ready: we decide to go for it. It takes 90 long minutes up exposed steep granite slopes to Low’s Peak – 4095.2m above sea level. It’s not raining but the fast gusting wind blowing the clouds along make it wet enough. Even though it’s exhausting, it’s so cold you can’t stop for long. There’s a long white rope snaking off into the cloud marking the trail. At some points you need to use it to haul yourself up, but more often to stop being blown off the slope. At 3pm, we reach the peak, and there’s great views of … the inside of a cloud. Supposedly there are several other peaks, a gully and lots of rhododendrons (the postcards look nice though). Neither of us can speak as our lips are numb with cold. After the obligatory photos next to the height marker, we quickly descend, and I’m so exhausted I’m in bed early tonight in the tin shack that is Panar Laban http://www.suterasanctuarylodges.com.my/labanrata.htm#Panar
It’s freezing, I think it would be an idea to put GLASS in all of the windows in a hut this high up, just a thought… At 2am I am woken by the rain and wind (most of it coming through the window), this is when you should start for the summit. Needless to say, there are lots of disappointed people at breakfast. I kindly keep quiet about going up yesterday afternoon, but when people speak to us on the way down, they say, “ah, you’re the one they told us about!” Sort of famous, eh?
So back to this race: “the worlds toughest mountain marathon”. The winner went up and down in 2 hours 41 minutes. I did it in 8hours 10 minutes. Though over two days, with some sleeping and resting in between. Maybe next year?
Tags: Travel
Nick