India
KolKata
It’s changed it’s name but it hasn’t changed it’s nappy. Kolkata is as dirty as we were warned (every traveller we spoke to had the same story to tell), but it’s character, charm and endless smiling faces hide the littered streets -that look like the day after Glastonbury Festival- with potent ease.
Our first, but certainly not last, experience in an Indian taxi (they’re classics)
Firstly I’d like to mention our first tastes of real Indian food, which was both enjoyable and disappointing. We ate around Sudder Street and Park Street and all three restaurants -serving delicious but tame Indian dishes- were far too used to tourists begging to leave out the spices.
Our first ride on a rickshaw (and likely last, as being pulled around town by a man who looks to have not eaten for weeks feels morally unacceptable and only slightly justified by the knowledge that you are supporting someone’s livelihood)
One day we walked through Maiden Park. It was a Sunday and the massive area that stretched longer that one could see was packed with cricket enthusiasts playing in the days humid heat. A group of lads begged for their photo to be taken whilst most of the men-only occupants of the park stared and smiled as we walked through – likely the sight of a female in the park, let alone foreigners, was a rare thing.
At the southern end of the park was the Victoria memorial, a magnificent and lasting impression of the British Raj. As we walked through the clean and well maintained gardens we got a taste of celebrity life, with several families asking to have their photo taken with us. I’m still trying to imagine the story told behind the photo; “ah yes, and here we are in Kolkata with a couple of random tourists – fascinating, are they not?”.
Like the rest of Asia, they’ll carry anything that will fit
After two days we wanted to move on, having seen and experienced enough of Kolkata to know we liked it for what it was, but we preferred tranquility – something not even the hotel room could provide (Laura was kept up most of a night whilst mad local men battled it out in the hall way, and whilst I slept easy with earplugs).
On Route
Our first overnight train experience in India was made pleasant by the company of two friendly Israelis we’d met previously (having shared a taxi from the airport in Kolkata), an Argentinian (who had been travelling the not-so-beaten-path, carrying tent and all), and a French chap (with a name I could never quite pronounce).
The ‘second class sleeper’ wasn’t quite what either of us had expected. Where we had the image of a four to six berth cabin, pillows and blankets provided, one should picture a long prison cell, chains and bars provided, to get an idea. Despite this surprise the trip was fun, albeit cold (fortunately we had bought a fleece each in Kolkata before leaving, or things would have been a lot colder), with food being shared around and knowledge being taken in by our resident school teacher who wasn’t afraid to demonstrate his excellent, although heavily accented, English.
An early morning cry with ringing bells and cymbals from a harikrishna that had boarded to bless us all for the remainder of our voyage and it was time to pull myself from a surprisingly okay-sleep. Out came the vendors selling anything from Chai to kids toys, as anyone who couldn’t pretend to still be asleep went back to the lengthy discussions on politics and cricket with the teacher.
Darjeeling
Like nowhere else in India (I can only imagine, of course) Darjeeling is a home away from home, and not only because of it’s homesick annihilating subzero temperatures. It’s cleaner (though don’t get me wrong, it’s not picture perfect), more relaxed, and the hospitality is unmatched. We’ve been staying in the Aliment Hotel and we’d recommend it to anyone and everyone for it’s clean and inviting rooms, wonderful staff (even a doctor in the house), and the cleanest kitchen in India churning out fantastic food (so good we haven’t eaten anywhere else) in a cosy atmosphere created by wood panelled walls, one of which packed with a library of books to borrow.
We’ve got more to say but time is now short so we’ll leave it there and get back to you all when we can.
A NOTE: Yes, quite; not many photos. As often is the case, local Internet speeds are slow and computers are unpredictable. When we get to the next city I will make every effort to update this entry with some wonderful pictures.
Tags: India, Kolkata, Travel
Monkey
hey guys glad to here india is all good (if not a little cold) im still stuck in chang mai, suprise suprise. was wicked seeing you both last week. have fun xxxx
Thanks for a top time and guiding us around your city 😉
Jen, it was awesome to see you too! 😉
Big kisses xxxx
Hi there
INDIA now that’s a place I want to go – never got there yet so keep us posted. Love the updates, so well written and funny. How great to meet up with Jenna – always weird to see familar faces soooo far away from home (small world really!).
Happy Belated Birthday Laura – hope you had fun.
Its Gary’s birthday on 13th so we are celebrating this weekend with a trip to B’ham to go to Air – aaagh remember those mad days!
So everything is getting Christmassy here but I bet you are managing to avoid it out there. We’ve all got colds too so I hope you are managing to avoid Deli Belly etc…
Love and hugs V
Hey V!
Thanks for the belated birthday wish. I had a splendid birthday. I was woken up to breakfast in bed (I know, isn’t he a sweetie!), a morning trip to the market and an evening of fine cuisine and plenty of drinks 😉
As for India, it certainly is incredible. We’re already talking about future trips back here, 6-weeks just isn’t enough.
Hope that Gary has a splendid birthday too, send our love.
Lots of hugs and kisses
Laura x
Feeling the vibe, looks wicked people. If I work any harder I may actual die – travel as long and hard as possible.
You’ve got to appreciate the sense of humour the person who invented society must of had.
We’ll be back in the game in 6 months (maybe more but not if we keep taking expensive flights), thinking like mad how I can enjoy life and stay over eleven stone.
Keep bellowing solider.
Rupert.
Glad to hear you monkeys are looking after each other and still not experinced weeing out your bum! Seen any monkeys yet????? Happy belated birthday i hope it was fab xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
love you both just sat trying to sign off the bloody mag and my comp is weeping at the bloody prospect of downloading all this shite!!! xxxxxxxxxxx
ps, rupe you are a pin head, i always had my suspisions
Laura, happy brothers birthday for yesterday!! mine got drunk in the Maytree – hope Steve had a slightly more exciting time.
I’m heading back to Bristol Sunday after 2 very sressful days of work…yes WORK. you may not remember it. Anyway, im knackered and annoyed that im up at this ungodly hour still doing it. grrr.
i love the pic of u guys around a dinner table with ppl youve met. Is my screensaver! hope ur not too homesick in a clean(ish) hotel ;-)!
spk sn jenna xxx
Hi there gang of two. sounds like India dosn’t change much. I know what you mean about the rickshaws, I used to get out and push it felt so weird. I must get in touch with Henry before he gets there , and send my love with him??? Hmm, wonder if that possible, miss you not being here for the ski, lots of snow on the mountains already, and getting colder, lots and lots of love your mummy.
Its nice to hear about a outsiders view of my city. I miss those crowd in Texas
I ll see if i remember anything to help you
You didnt mention anything about the drivers who took you up the hill- should have scared u like anything
Sikkim was restricted to foreigners(dont know how it is now) There its more beautiful culture still more indigenous
Faye the banana: Any monkeys? They’re everywhere in India, which is a pleasant change as I was hugely dissapointed with only seeing one monkey (not including chained up souls) during our whole time in Asia, and that was only for a brief moment in Cambodia whilst visiting Angkor Wat.
And I am no pin head Miss Westrop. Just a bad hairdresser.
Mummy:We saw snow from a distance, on Everest! and the rest of the Himalayas. Hoping to organise my unorganised friends to take a trip to France for a spot of skiing next season – but either way, me and Laura will be there!
Missing you heaps too x
SaikatHi there. Sikkim has it’s doors wide open for tourists. The people we spent time with in Darjeeling were all going on to Sikkim. If we had more time we’d have gone with them, although it sounded a lot cooler and we weren’t prepared for the temperature drop in Darjeeling so probably would have froze with our one blanket and, t-shirt and shorts. Next time.
Thanks for posting everyone! Nice to hear from so many people!