The River Wild
BOOM!!! We drop off a rock and into what Toe, our guide, calls a “hole in the river”, where the current is being twisted and turned so it’s just fighting against itself and thus creates a whirl pool effect – not a time to fall out of the raft. “Forward paddle!” shouts Toe from the rear as we launch ourselves into the next drop. Unfortunately half of us, including me, weren’t entirely sure what he’d said, so paddled like we were tickling the river until his next scream of command; “GET DOWN!”. “I know what that means” I thought, as I duck into the raft and hang on with the biggest grin on my face – soon to be met with a face full of river water.
We make it through with every man and woman still on board and high five with our paddles before turning the raft round and waiting to watch the other team take the plunge.
Perhaps it’s human instinct to be entertained by others misfortune. In any case, we all had our fingers crossed and weren’t disappointed. Stefan, a nice polish chap well into his climbing, was launched over the other side of the boat and into the river whilst their guide dropped off the back, leaving the rest to panic amongst themselves.
This is the first day of our two-day white water rafting trip. Eleven of us got acquainted during the two and half our trip (although me and Laura opted to travel in the raft, on top of the truck, for the long and bumpy journey. Until the police told us off) to the Nam Ngum river, where we were to spend the next two days sweating it out on the best team building exercise I’ve ever been a part of.
Happy to in the comfort of the raft and not in the cramped back up the truck
LEFT: Apparently this bridge wasn’t fit for vehicles RIGHT: So the truck crossed on this platform that was pulled by an old army amphibian vehicle
After a warm up day that took in a few class two and three rapids it was time for food and bed. For reasons beyond our explanation me and Laura had both expected to drift up to a warm and cosy guesthouse with food laid out on the table and bar brimming with variety. Instead we first stopped at the side of the river to fill the rafts with as much wood as possible, then we landed at a small beach where a couple of shady bamboo structures sat above.
After having a shower under bamboo funnelled water and getting into dry clothes, we settle our bums on wicker mats and eat a good meal before getting stuck into the drinking games with the guides and their Tiger whisky, whilst local fishing men who had joined us passed round a continuous supply of their local brew of Laolao, a headache inducing rice based alcoholic mad mans drink. Awful stuff. We also got a taste of Toe’s singing (you’ll need to be viewing this page on IE I think, to make this work):
LEFT: The camp RIGHT: The huts for sleeping. We somehow managed to blag the only tent available. Although in hindsight it wasn’t the most comfortable option
Eating at camp
Prepping for the second day
LEFT: Our guide, Toe RIGHT: The morning view
The next morning everyone was feeling expectantly unfit for a day of being thrown around a raft. Particularly one member of stomach clutching team, Jonty, who I saw up at five thirty in the morning sitting on the beach, apparently chucking his guts up, although I left him be, under the impression he was contemplating life or something alike.
Once under way the previous nights aftereffects became a distant memory. We we’re expertly guided through class III rapids – one of which Laura took the plunge with a fellow member, Andy, who she thought had jumped out to rescue her, and another in which I lost my balance and felt myself slip over the side, as if in slow motion (fortunately I managed to get back on board before we hit a large rock and was propelled into a nose dive).
The last rapid was what the extreme enthusiasts amongst us had all been waiting for – a class IV rapid. It took the guides over half an hour to decide the line we were going to take, which gave those who dared time to look at what was in store. It was much longer than the previous rapids, and had several drops that could potentially flip the raft.
Despite putting the fear of god into us (including Laura opting to meet us on the other side), it was easy riding – thanks to the expert line planned out by our top class guide. After celebrating and watching the other raft successfully guide their way through, we all talked excitedly like school children until the other raft of people, who had floated passed us and was now resting near the other side of the river, started shouting at us “swim away! Jump and swim away!”. Without knowing why, we all scrambled to safety, some swimming to the other boat whilst I jumped under an overhanging rock, making the assumption that something was falling from the cliff face above. The other raft of people saw where I was and shouted at anyone who hadn’t yet made it to the other boat to follow me. I looked around for Laura and saw her scrambling in panic, relentlessly trying to get a foothold and climb to safety whilst crying for help. I jumped back in and pulled her to the overhang, where Jonty pulled her up and I followed.
We lay under the overhang whilst Toe blew his whistle, trying to get anyone’s attention who might be responsible for the falling boulders and debris. The cracking and crushing sounds we had heard during the panic had stopped, so we made a dash for the boat and paddled at full speed to where the other raft was waiting. Later we were told trees were falling down and a large boulder was about to come crashing down on us. Nice.
We watched a JCB push half a mountain into the river (boats passing and rocks barely missing them) whilst waiting to be picked up, then ate lunch during a long boat ride (to add to the days excitement, the boats engine caught fire midway) to the pickup truck that was to take us on to Vientiane. What a day.
LEFT: Chilling on the boat after a damn fine meal RIGHT: Watching the mountain come down
LEFT: Toe taking a nap RIGHT: No idea. Crazy little man
Tags: Travel
Monkey
momkey here, getting some music, it’s you? hooray more news , lots of love. mumki.
Hello Laura,
just looked at ur latest adventures, me v envious! Went out with ur mother Thurs eve to see play – a local thing. V good.
Have seen u white water rafting – but found more interesting ur wee story in India after youd just eaten!
Talk soon xxx
Hey mum,
The singing is Toe, our guide, with cheering, humming and laughter from the rest of the camp (me included).
India update very soon!
Rupert x
Hows India, has Laura tried on any saris yet? lots of love mumkey
Hey mumki!
From it’s tranquil mountains to it’s manic cities, we’re loving everything about India. We just don’t have enough time here – we’ll have to come back!
Laura hasn’t tried on any Saris yet but we’re hoping to find her a nice shawl in Delhi, where we are now. We’ve both been wearing cosy wool Shawls in Darjeeling – pictures to come!
P.S – J’apprends le Francais!
x x x