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98% DEET, 100% Amazon

Sunday, June 8th, 2008

A paddle down the Amazon 

Getting to La Selva Lodge (www.laselvajunglelodge.com) isn´t easy: the journey begins with a flight from Quito, followed by a 2.5 hour ride in a motorized dug-out canoe along the Napo River, a 30 minute hike through the dense Amazon rainforest, and finally, a paddled canoe ride across a lagoon.

Just a few hours into our stay, we knew it had all been worthwhile. We´d already spotted 4 kinds of monkeys, seen a toe-toed sloth up close, and added the hoatzin to our birding life lists-a proud feat by any birder´s standards.

While neither of us were thrilled with the 5:30 am wake-up calls, the early morning nature viewing and night paddles were incredible: 57 new birds identified including 6 owls (Mel has been trying to see owls for 5 months now); 7 types of new monkey species; tarantulas, frogs, mariposas, lizards…..

We´ve clearly made significant progress on Operation Bird Discovery, Phase 3, and predict this may be our most successful venture yet.

Our lodge, an “upmarket rainforest eco-resort” felt like home – that is, if home was a groovy palapa and bamboo hut set amidst the wild and unpredictable Amazon rainforest.

Note to Mel´s parents: You´ll be pleased to know that Brendan made me wear a lifejacket all the time. But I´m pretty sure the piranha would have got me first. And no, I didn´t get malaria.

One of many tarantulas…this one is poisonousLa SelvaThe elusive hoatzin….not really that elusive after all…The Amazon

Playing Pioneer

Friday, June 6th, 2008

 Home sweet home…

In a country with as much history as Ecuador, it seemed only right for Brel to spend the night in the oldest hacienda, 400 year-old La Guachala.

Amidst our antique furniture, we easily slipped into the roles of the pioneers. Brendan built us a fire. Mel considered baking some bread. And oh yea, we watched movies on the laptop because it was too cold to go outside. We´re pretty sure the pioneers would have done the same thing though, had it been an option.

La GuachalaAt a rose farm…Sadly, not a present for Mel

Mitad del Mundo

Wednesday, June 4th, 2008
  No visit to Ecuador would be complete without a visit to the place where the middle of the world was declared, in 1736 . The equator, the widest part of the world, crosses only 7 countries. The museum at ... [Continue reading this entry]

Lessons Learned in South America´s Largest Artesan Market

Monday, June 2nd, 2008
We find ourselves in Otavalo, Ecuador, home to South America´s largest outdoor market. I should have anticipated this would be trouble.   Lessons learned:  1. Markets are a lot of fun. I actually hyperventilated a little when I saw it. 2. Bargaining makes me feel good. It doesn´t ... [Continue reading this entry]

Brel World Tour – Repeat Toronto Appearance

Friday, May 30th, 2008

With our tour of South America almost over, we will be in Toronto from June 15 - 20, before heading off to Turkey.

We´d invite you all for a BBQ were it not for the fact that we are homeless. We´re ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Middle of the World

Thursday, May 29th, 2008
 Hummingbirds  It´s high time Brel spent some time apart. And with Brendan writing away and working hard to meet deadlines, I ventured into the Ecuadorian cloudforest for the weekend. Two hours from Quito (the capital and largest city ... [Continue reading this entry]

Important Brel Itinerary Updates

Tuesday, May 27th, 2008
We are in the midst of planning the third and final leg of our adventure and would love your thoughts if you´ve been to any of the countires on our itinerary. We´ve changed our plans considerably (yay Africa! see you next ... [Continue reading this entry]

Vines of Mendoza

Monday, May 26th, 2008
 Luigi Bosca With over 1,000 wineries, Mendoza really is a wine lovers´paradise. And with only one week to explore, you can imagine the pressure Brel was feeling to sample as many as possible. While our livers may ... [Continue reading this entry]

See, Swirl, Sniff, Sip and Savour – Brel Style

Monday, May 19th, 2008
 Brel tasting session “Wine tasting is the sensory examination and evaluation of wine. There are five basic steps in tasting wine: color, swirl, smell, taste, and savour. Essentially, a taster is looking for clarity, varietal character, integration, expressiveness, ... [Continue reading this entry]

Don´t Cry for me Argentina…

Saturday, May 17th, 2008
 Out the bus window..
Don´t cry for me Argentina  The truth is, I never left you All through Puerto Varas  And Santiago I kept my promise You knew I´d be back....
Sorry Chile...our hearts are still in Argentina, so we´ve returned to spend some time in Mendoza, a.k.a. ... [Continue reading this entry]

Final Thoughts…Chile

Friday, May 16th, 2008
wineries-015.jpg  Moments We´d Rather Forget...
  • How much we made everyone worry that we were too close to the erupting volcano
  • The sticker shock - especially after a month in Argentina
  • How North American it all seemed...
Highlights...

Santiago – kind of like a big bowl of pollution

Thursday, May 15th, 2008
Mmm…smell that clean air… This is a bad time of year to visit Santiago. Surrounded by the Andes, it's kind of like a cesspool of pollution. The air is thick and nasty and you can't actually see the ... [Continue reading this entry]

Brel at a Chilean Volcano…no, not THAT volcano

Wednesday, May 14th, 2008
 puerto-varas-046.jpg We´ve crossed the Andes and entered Chile at a most interesting time - the Chaiten volcano is erupting for the first time in over 9,000 years and it´s all over the international news. The smoke and ... [Continue reading this entry]

Final Thoughts…Argentina

Tuesday, May 13th, 2008
 Hola Argentina! By The Numbers
  • Number of Purchases:
    • Leather purses: 7
    • Leather jackets: 5
    • Shoes and boots: 7
  • Number of animals who gave their lives for our purchases (including a guanaco): uh, not really sure we want to know this
  • Number of days ... [Continue reading this entry]

Just think of us as coming from the Land of Chocolate…

Sunday, May 11th, 2008
 Mel in her happy place Bariloche, in northern Patagonia, Argentina, is home to more than 50 artesan chocolate shops and over a dozen microbreweries. How do you spell Brel heaven? B-A-R-I-L-O-C-H-E. Set amidst the Andes, Bariloche is also a world-reknowned ... [Continue reading this entry]

World´s Worst Photo of Brendan…or is it?

Friday, May 9th, 2008
 salta-south-055.jpg You know Mel is the one writing this blog when this photo actually makes it onto the site. I just can´t help laughing out loud every time I see it...do I actually date this person? Of course this ... [Continue reading this entry]

Journey to Salta

Friday, May 9th, 2008
salta-north-049.jpg  Gaining an understanding of Argentina means more than just hanging out in trendy restaurants and binging on beef and wine in Buenos Aires. (Not that there´s anything wrong with that.) And so we journeyed to the province of Salta, ... [Continue reading this entry]

A Rant about Rogers

Friday, May 2nd, 2008
An open letter to Ted Rogers:  One would think that being out of the country for 4 months would translate to fewer issues with you, the cable and internet provider from hell. I’m sure you understand our surprise then, to find ... [Continue reading this entry]

Groove Armada!!

Thursday, May 1st, 2008
We are going to Grooooove Armada! Right now!! In Buenos Aires!  Wicked.

Slickers de la Ciudad

Wednesday, April 30th, 2008
Mel giving her horse some love… Since the City Slickers movies of the early 90’s, Mel has dreamed of staying at a working dude ranch – learning to ride while living the cowboy life. (Surely this is ... [Continue reading this entry]

Free Case of Wine to a Chronicles Reader…

Monday, April 28th, 2008
No, that wasn´t just to get your attention. We are spending the next month in wine country - Bariloche, the Maipo Valley and Mendoza.  So as you can imagine, we don´t want our love affair with Argentinian wines to end. We know ... [Continue reading this entry]

La Cumbre – en Español

Sunday, April 27th, 2008
Mi professora… While it may seem like our trip is all fun and games (and it is, mostly), Mel has been taking private Spanish lessons (3 hours/day) for the past few weeks. Well beyond telling time and ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Pichefying of Brendan, and the Powelling of Mel

Saturday, April 26th, 2008
 Half of Brel deconstructing his sandwich a la Piche With two years of dating behind us, and this many months of intensive dating via travelling, it was only a matter of time before we would start to ... [Continue reading this entry]

Yet Another Brel Attempt to Get Injured, Maimed or Die

Thursday, April 24th, 2008
 Up, up and away… We find ourselves in La Cumbre, a posh town in the northern part of the province of Cordoba, about 800 km from Buenos Aires. Known as a groovy, artsy town, La Cumbre is ... [Continue reading this entry]

Che Chicos! Lessons Learned on the Road Volume Cuatro

Wednesday, April 23rd, 2008
 Drowning in wine… 1. Unpacking your bags once and settling down for a month: brilliant. 2. Don’t mess with the farmers. See previous blogs on beef strike and field burning. 3. You can never buy too many leather coats, ... [Continue reading this entry]

Buenos Aires – Good Airs??

Friday, April 18th, 2008
smoke-in-ba.jpg The literal translation of Buenos Aires is Good Airs, which is kind of ironic given what’s going on right now. The farmers, having recently given up their plight to restrict beef in Buenos Aires, have taken to ... [Continue reading this entry]

Mel Cries at the Zoo…well, almost…

Wednesday, April 16th, 2008
 Not sure he’s entirely happy… I realize that as an animal lover, I’m supposed to be anti-zoo. But I'm not afraid to admit it: I normally really, really like them.  The Buenos Aires Zoo, located in the heart of the ... [Continue reading this entry]

Important Beef Update

Tuesday, April 15th, 2008
Lunch for two!  We interrupt your regularly scheduled blog reading to bring you an important beef bulletin. We’re not sure why, but there’s some sort of reprieve going on with the whole beef strike. No need to lose ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Best of Max and Ollie

Tuesday, April 15th, 2008
 Our boys - all dressed up for our last night out together Some of you may have noticed the repeat appearances of two scruffy and dishevelled 18 year olds in our photos over the last few months. ... [Continue reading this entry]

Mel’s New ‘Do (and a pic of her wicked new boots)

Monday, April 14th, 2008
The End Result  Buenos Aires is a vain city by any standards: 1 in 10 women have an eating disorder; 1 in 30 people (that’s people, not women) have had plastic surgery; stylishly dressed and perfectly preened people ... [Continue reading this entry]

Tango in BA

Sunday, April 13th, 2008
 The Pros Tango is the soundtrack to Buenos Aires – whether it’s old school tango dancing in the streets, or the sounds of pop/rock songs that have been tango-ized, tango is everywhere. At once both seductive and ... [Continue reading this entry]

Beef is Everything – and so is Timing

Saturday, April 12th, 2008
One of the highlights of Argentina, as we learned from our travels here in 2006, is the beef. Unlike anything we can get at home, Argentinian beef literally melts in your mouth. And while you could piece the cow back ... [Continue reading this entry]

Home Sweet Home

Saturday, April 12th, 2008
 At home in Palermo At long last (sorry Brazil and Uruguay), we have arrived in Buenos Aires, the Paris of the Americas; the land of beef and wine, where history meets style and where thanks to a ... [Continue reading this entry]

Final Thoughts…Uruguay

Friday, April 11th, 2008
We spent a quick four days exploring some of the highlights of Uruguay. While not enough time to do it justice, we were able to get a flavour. By the Numbers • # of bottles consumed of medio y medio (a fantastic ... [Continue reading this entry]

Dolphins! the video

Friday, April 11th, 2008

Goooooooooalllll

Friday, April 11th, 2008

Final Thoughts…Brazil

Tuesday, April 1st, 2008

Come on, we know you’re all imagining this is what we do every day… Hiking Mel

By the Numbers

Iguassu Falls kicks Niagara’s A$$

Monday, March 31st, 2008
 Iguassu Falls With 275 separate waterfalls and 23 kilometres of foaming water, Iguassu Falls is about as spectacular as it gets.  The falls lie on the border of Argentina and Brazil, ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Planet Eye Global Nomad

Sunday, March 30th, 2008
Some of you may not know that there is actually more than one blog being written about this trip. Since January, Brendan has been writing for a new travel website called Planet Eye, as their "Global Nomad." The blog is ... [Continue reading this entry]

Important Brazilian Stuff-brought to you by the letter C

Sunday, March 30th, 2008
Where the cachaca fun begins…  Cachaca – Ever indulged in a caipirinha? Well it ain’t a capairinha without cachaca. Brazil’s answer to rum, cachaca is a sugar-cane liquor that basically goes down like burning gasoline – even ... [Continue reading this entry]

Happy Easter!

Sunday, March 23rd, 2008
Hot-Cross Bun Fun  ...from the world's largest Catholic country.  Brel

Lessons learned on the road…Brazil

Saturday, March 22nd, 2008
sshhh… don’t tell Mel’s parents
  1.  Public displays of affection are not only the norm in Rio, they’re kinda expected.  Sadly for B, Mel still hasn’t come ‘round.
  2. When driving in Brazil, feel free to create your own lane ... [Continue reading this entry]

A Darker Side of Rio

Friday, March 21st, 2008
Rocinha As we live it up in beautiful Rio, the reality of how much of the population here lives is never far away. Favelas, the slum areas of Brazil, dot the countryside – ... [Continue reading this entry]

Thanks to recent Brel supporters and friends

Friday, March 21st, 2008
Brel on the Boat Although this blog had started primarily as a way to chronicle our trip, stay in touch with our friends and family, and keep Mel occupied when Brendan was doing work, it has grown ... [Continue reading this entry]

Brel-gliding

Thursday, March 20th, 2008
Brel-gliding Note to Mel’s parents: don’t worry, we come out of this alive and well.  Ok, we’ve officially lost all sense of reason (if B ever had any….)  Today we ... [Continue reading this entry]

Budget Crunch

Wednesday, March 19th, 2008
For all of you who’ve been reading our blog with envy, you’ll be pleased to know that we have made the difficult decision to reduce our lifestyle...albeit reluctantly. Gone are the beachfront hotels with rooftop pools, the bottles of wine, ... [Continue reading this entry]

Sailing – Part 2

Wednesday, March 19th, 2008
We have, at long last, returned to land. As we look back on our week aboard the Tocorime (the same ship used in an episode of the Amazing Race, by the ... [Continue reading this entry]

Tall Ship Sailing in Brazil – Part 1

Sunday, March 16th, 2008
We knew it would eventually happen: the transition from vacation to travel. We are currently sailing on an old-school wooden tall ship, along the coast of Brazil. Adventure: yes; luxury: not so much. After getting her ... [Continue reading this entry]

Beer Bottles, Cups of Urine and Dead Chickens – and Football, of course

Friday, March 7th, 2008
Soccer Brazil-style While Brazil may have more Catholics than anywhere else in the world, the real religion here is football – not the NFL kind, but soccer. So of course, we had to take in ... [Continue reading this entry]

Copa, Copacabana….

Friday, March 7th, 2008

It is 39 degrees under a hot, hot sun. Perfectly tanned and toned bodies in string bikinis surround us. Miles of white sand beach stretch before us. We sip caipirnhas while listening to ... [Continue reading this entry]