Craving more Krakow
Lija and I are off again, this time on a nostalgic visit through time and place to experience the Poland that our grandfathers grew up in. We are now in Warsaw, but spent the first few days in Krakow.
Given my chance, and one future time, I will be returning to Krakow. It is Londonś Edinburgh and Sydneyś Melbourne. It is described as an up and coming town in all the guidebooks, newly discovered, but itś been around for quite a while. Half of the population are students, the other half are vodka drunks, and together they make Krakovians.
Our first afternoon we took a bus out to the salt mines and walked 53 floors, or 180 steps underground to discover a world of salt carvings, magical curing air and the little people that look after the mines. There are tunnels upon tunnels and we were only 135 metres underground, but there are special sauna rooms and rooms where people go just to breathe the air. When the average life expectancy was only 70s-80s, the miners were living to 90 plus because of the properties of the salt in the clean air down there.
The mine still produces 15 tonnes of salt a month from the evaporation so the mine doesnt collapse, whereas a normal working mine would produce in excess of 250 tonnes. There are many chapels underground, and big areas for the horses they used to help move salt. The horses were also good for safety as they could tell when something was going to happen, and the miners would listen and watch for when the horses were acting strangely.
There is a restaurant and a huge ballroom – when we surfaced there must have been a school formal, many young girls dressed up with their partners about to descend to party. There is also a massive chapel that holds about 12 weddings a year. It is very expensive because it stops tourists from entering that area, which has many gorgeous carvings made from the salt. All the carvings are done by the miners themselves, normal everyday people producing fabulous works of art. One began with a sketchy work of Mary and Josef and the donkey, and his final piece was a replica of The Last Supper.
Our tour guide was cynically funny, telling us to wear the stickers into the mines but because they are crap and dont stick theyĺl probably fall off in which case – dont lose the group! The Polish Sebastion had a good grip of English crass, telling us we can buy souvenirs underground but the little stall in the parking lot is 1/3 of the price.
Ascending the mines afterwards was scary, the new lift wasnt working, so we had to use the old miners lifts, in other words keep your hands and feet in, squish 8 people in one compartment and there were two compartments for the lift on top of each other, so they closed our doors and took us up one level to let the next lot in below. Eeek!
We had a nice meal out that night, I had a pork chop with potatoes and sauerkraut, while lija had goulash with sauerkraut. We headed out to a vodka bar called Wodka, very original, also very small and cosy. We had the barman suggest a few flavours and over a course of several hours drank our way through mango, mandarin, bison grass, cranberry, honey and pear flavoured vodka – with a lemonade to aid in the digestion process. Significantly sozzled we bumped into some people who were on our tour to the salt mines and had a funny drunk conversation while we waited for our midnight snack – sort of half a baguette roll with melted cheese vegies and salami – much healthier than kebabs, get a clue London!
The next afternoon when we got back from Auschwitz we had to go back to the hostel to double our layers. The days are cold, but the nights are freaking freezing. I wear stockings and socks, thermal pants and jeans, and four layers of tops. Thatś not including the scarf, hat, gloves and hood of my jacket. My favourite jacket that I bought in Munich on our first long trip. It ripped the other day. I dont blame it, ive put it through the hard yards and given it a good work out. Its been my only coat for the last two years. Its slowly dying.
But the snow makes the cold worthwhile. It has snowed every day in Krakow. Big chunky flakes, tiny specks, and our favourite – real actual snow flakes like you draw and see in books. Magical! Balaclavas would be perfect here. When the wind whips your face it stings, and the cold can get in through your whole body. But the kids dont need skate shoes here – those sneakers with wheels on them. I spent my time walking through Krakowś parks skating my feet along. If you walked you are more likely to slip and fall, skating along is annoying but you can get some good speed at times 🙂
We also went through the main square, with many amber shops in the middle, and down to the Wavl castle, with a birdś eye view of Krakowś dragon. The main strip itself has over 300 pubs, bars and clubs. We had dinner last night at the hostel, itś included on Tuesday and Saturday nights, so we got to meet pretty much the rest of the hostel. Magda, one of the hostel workers, took us all out to this beer hall where they got metre tall tubes of pour-your-own beer and I poured my first ever pint (couldnt finish it but dont tell) I got a really nice vodka with apple juice instead!
We found the 24hour pirogi place on the way home and tried the polish delicacy. A mix between chinese dumplings and italian pillow pasta but nicer than either of those! Very strong flavours even just the cheese ones.
Today we took a train to Warsaw. Lija was squished next to a fat man, and as we went through the tunnel it was a very Eurotrip-ish moment (for those whove seen the teen flick). Lots of rolling country side covered in snow, very picturesque. Lija told me I fell asleep with my gob hanging open…whatś new.
Plenty more to see and do. I would love to go back one day…
Tags: Travel
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