Canada to Patagonia at a Worrying Age

A quick word on the journey here. As you might expect, the bus from Copacabana was suitably blessed prior to the trip, but once out of the valley, we stopped to buy some gladioli as extra insurance. Good thinking, obviously, but I didn’t realise it was in order to prevent the sodding thing sinking. For it turned out we had to cross the lake (by the home of the Bolivian navy), by a boat that had seen many, many better days.

There is a sign at the crossing saying “Bolivia demands to the world a sovereign right from an exit to the sea.” Or as a local mag has “Long time, no sea.” This all relates to the War of the Pacific of 1879-84. I’ll bore you senseless on it sometime, if you want. In the meantime, write to your MP (I can’t).

Onto the scam. La Paz is a great city – sort of like Rome 20 years ago, and I’ve so far enjoyed my stay here. However today I met Paula from Ecuador who, like me, was looking for the Archaeological Museum. We set off together, only to be stopped by a gentleman asking if we spoke Spanish or English. Between us we spoke both, very useful when he produced his plain-clothes policeman identity card that I presume his 5-year-old grandson had put together. I was aware of this scam and told him where to go, pulling Paula away from him. The idea is that he is investigating counterfeit money and needs to examine your cash and your passport (keeping both until ‘later’).

Paula thanked me and went on her way, and it was only after she’d gone that I realised she was part of it. If I hadn’t reacted so quickly she would have produced her documents and money first (as a ‘foreigner’), with me expected to follow. Little minx!

Anyway, I still haven’t met the president, although I know his back in the city. But I have met one of the shoeshine boys who hide their faces (supposedly out of shame) while they earn money for their education. This picture cost me 2 Bolivianos (I didn’t need my shoes shining today). Picture won’t load – will try another day.

In case I don’t post tomorrow – Happy 50th Paul! You don’t look a day over 45.

PS – Correct Flickr link – http://www.flickr.com/photos/28108075@N00/