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Sao Paulo Youth – Corrupted or Enlightened?

Friday, April 14th, 2006

I think the latter, but to make up your own mind get a window seat in the Sattva vegetarian restaurant (Al. Itu. 1564) on a weekend night from 10pm on and watch the show on the street outside.  (The waitress produced the change for the meal out of her bra, by the way.)  The only really multicultural scene I’ve witnessed.  Oh to be 18, or even 25, again.  And Brazilian.

Also, as if to round things off the way they started, a religious procession outside my hotel at dusk (which followed a ‘modern’ crucifixion on the steps of the cathedral).  The stations in the street by candle light with a statue of a dead Christ and a Mary looking over him with a sad expression.  What happened in the East End this Good Friday?

Quick note on accommodation.  Staying at the NH Della Volpe – weekend rate £36.  Best value hotel of the holiday.  The standard rooms are like suites and well worth it.

http://static.flickr.com/52/128867571_2b3b6f97c6.jpg

Interesting that at least 13 people have had a look at this rather obscure link in the 4 hours since I put it on.  Who are you?

A Paulistano Writes…

Thursday, April 13th, 2006

Ho hum, nearly time to return.  Here I am in Sao Paulo, which is making a bid to be my new favourite big city.  Visited the Niemeyer-designed park, a superb oasis in the middle of the (pleasant) busyness.  Parts could do with a lick of paint, though.

Earlier, changed my BA seat from battery hen to veal crate.  Still hoping for an upgrade to pig-pen, but unlikely given the level of service to which this once-adequate company has sunk.  Oh for a bit of re-nationalisation…

Last night was a bit of a blast from the past.  Had a wander round the Jardins district of SP, getting a veggie burger for my tea (always a disappointment).  Had planned on a visit to a nearby Oirish pub, but it was full of drunk English boys called Jeremy, so skipped it for a bar I´d spotted on the way.  When I went in they were playing Ai No Corrida.  Unusual, so had a look around.  All the clues were there, with Wizard of Oz memorabilia and a portrait of Liza.  Next song was Into the Groove, so that was final confirmation.  Later they played Copacabana, as if any further detail were required.  Just to make it even more Oliver´s like, a drunk English girl got up on a stool when they started to play that Abba song about men and midnight.  She got down pretty fast when it was pointed out she was in danger of being scalped by the ceiling fan about 1mm from her head.

Anyway, all very friendly and pleasant and I slept well after a couple of well-earned gins.

And soon I´m coming home.  Booked into a posh hotel for my last couple of nights on the continent.  How many beds have I slept in on this journey?  Perhaps we could have a little competition along the lines of how many jellybeans in the jar, so beloved of summer fetes.  Winner could get a useless bit of tat that I´ll no doubt pick up in some mad panic of “Oh God, I haven´t bought any presents” phase, which normally affects me about a minute before I leave for home.  Luckily, this will occur at Easter this time, so all the tat shops will be shut.

And on the home front, we all know where the 22nd will be spent, and I´m fairly clear that next Mon and Tues will be in west London.  But I´m actually back in Chester on the Wednesday.  Anyone up for a pint or two on that or the following night?  I´m assuming Friday will take care of itself.  East Londoners, the fun starts Monday 24th and hopefully doesn´t stop for at least a week.  Please keep your diaries free.

So there we go.  Planning positively for the return.  Actually pretty excited at the thought of seeing you all, even though they´ll be strapping me to the seat of my veal crate as I sob forlorny at the loveliness that is Sao Paulo and everything else on this side of the Atlantic.  Still, PG Wodehouse is keeping my pecker up with his bally good pasting of the English aristocracy.  Trouble is, when that´s finished it´s only worthy books left for the flight.  Still, enough of ramblings, except to say that some of you could take a leaf or two out of Cath´s and Gillian´s books with their erudite comments.

To finish the latest on Niemeyer from Wiki –

“He is currently designing a statue showing a tiger with its mouth open and a man fighting it raising the Cuban flag against the US blockade of Cuba.”  And he´s 98.