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Capitol Reef National Park and Bryce Canyon NP, a geologist’s paradise

Sunday, May 29th, 2011

May 23rd-May 26th

From Green River, we drove south again to Capitol Reef NP. This park also has some crazy rock formations, but it’s a little different than the previous ones. Here, the rock has been uplifted so everything is on a slant. The rock formations looked like sinking ships. The area was also a Mormon settlement. A small Mormon community aptly named Fruita (for the fruit orchards they planted) built their homesteads there along the Fremont River. We visited an old homestead that is now a historical site and then drove up the scenic drive to the Capital Gorge, a narrow gorge that we hiked up for about 2 miles. We arrived early enough to secure a nice camping spot in the campground under the Cottonwood Trees. Looking down on the campground, the almost fluorescent green trees seemed out of place against the dry desert landscape. Before dinner, we did a short a hike called the Rim Overlook Trail along the cliff tops to get some beautiful views of the area. We passed through a series of red rocks and I commented to Fabien that this is what Mars must look like.

After a cool, but restful night, we woke up very early the following morning to get an early start to Bryce Canyon. We weren’t expecting it, but the drive was absolutely beautiful. We passed a summit around 10,000 feet and saw snow on the trees once again. We arrived at Bryce Canyon just in time to get a camping spot. They were all full by early afternoon. We set up camp, had a picnic lunch and then took a walk out to peer into the magnificent canyon. It reminded me of a fairyland (if one really exists, it’s here.) The hoodoos (or rock formations sticking hundreds of feet into the air) are a beautiful mix of red, orange and white. We hiked the Rim Trail to Sunrise Point and then descended into Queen’s Garden. For me, this was the most impressive area of the park. There were colorful hoodoos in all directions, some naturally formed to look like castle walls and spires. Others resembled people or animals. At the bottom of Queen’s Garden, we joined the Navajo Trail which took us up through the famous Wall Street section. There was a warning that rock falls occur often on the trail, and in fact, part of the trail was closed due to a serious rockslide earlier this spring. Back at the top, we continued the Rim Trail to several more viewpoints giving us expansive views over the “canyon.” At the end, we took the handy shuttle bus back to our campground.

Our second day in Bryce Canyon, we started with some areas that you can only get to by driving. At the very end of the road at Rainbow Point, we could see the rocks that form the north rim of the Grand Canyon. We also did a short hike at this point that took us through some muddy and snowy areas (we were at about 9,000 ft elevation here compared with 8,000 at the campground.) We went back to the campsite for lunch and relaxed a bit before doing a 5 mile hike that started on the Peekaboo trail and returned on the Navajo and Queen’s Garden trail. After all of that we still had energy after dinner. We went to the evening program at the lodge, which was very charming place. Apparently, it’s the only NP lodge in its original 1920s state. There are private log cabins with fireplaces that look very cozy. Anyway, the evening program was about slot canyons (extremely narrow canyons) and all of the exciting things that can happen to you while you’re hiking through them- particularly flash floods! Back to camp and to bed; the next morning we would have another early start to grab our camping spot in Zion NP for the holiday weekend.

Arches National Park and Canyonlands NP (Moab, Utah)

Friday, May 27th, 2011

May 20th-22nd

Arches National Park is another example of the amazing and otherworldly landscapes found on the Colorado Plateau. It is one of the largest concentrations of natural arch formations in the world. The orange sandstone formations, jutting up from the land, are the result of millions of years of erosion and weathering. We got a backcountry permit so that we could camp overnight inside of the park. We hiked out a rustic path that followed a natural gas pipeline that crosses the park and then across some slick rock until we found a nice camping spot on top of the rocks. On one side we had a view of the snowcapped La Sal Mountains. After a very peaceful night’s sleep, we hiked back to our car and drove to the Devil’s Garden Trailhead. (In Arches, like most of the national parks, the distances are huge and you have to drive from point to point.) We did a great 3 hour hike through Devil’s Garden which took us past many arches, including the 306 foot long Landscape Arch.  Since it was a Saturday, the park was packed and we had trouble finding a picnic spot. We ended up stopping in a pull-out on the side of the road and setting up our chairs and picnicking there facing some amazing rocks with our backs to the road. When we inquired about camping on Saturday night, everything was full of course. We ended up finding a private campground that basically let people camp in a big open muddy field next to the Colorado River. It turned out to be a pretty decent (and warm) spot.

On Sunday, we went to the Islands in the Sky section of Canyonlands National Park (about 30 miles from Moab.) This park also has some wild rock formations, carved out by the Green and Colorado Rivers. I think the main draw is the access to 4-wheel roads that take you down in to the canyon. We chose to stay at the top, and do the scenic drive, which took us to some pretty spectacular sights. One of the sites, the Upheaval Dome, is an area of gray rocks that have been pushed out of the earth. We don’t know what the cause was, but scientists have several theories including a meteorite impact, volcanic activity or a salt eruption.

We slept in Green River again, at the Sleepy Hollow Motel, an old-fashioned motel with furniture from the 70’s/80’s. The scenery around Moab was amazing, but it was a little frustrating fighting the crowds. I guess we’re used to having our run of the place now…but summer and California are coming.

Welcome to Utah

Friday, May 27th, 2011
May 19th After two nights of camping in the rain and snow, Fabien and I were definitely ready for a hot shower and a warm bed. The weather was still sketchy as we crossed the border to Utah, alternating between dark ... [Continue reading this entry]

Mesa Verde National Park and return of winter (Colorado)

Friday, May 27th, 2011
May 17th-May 19th Mesa Verde is unique among the National Parks because it is the only one fully devoted to archeology. The cliff dwellings at Mesa Verde, built by the Ancestral Puebloans, or Anasazi, are spectacular. We had an”adventurous” time visiting ... [Continue reading this entry]

Rocky Mountain High: Ridgway, Ouray, Silverton, and Durango

Friday, May 27th, 2011
May 16th-May 17th As we left the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, we descended onto a fertile plateau, irrigated by Gunnison River water that had been piped through the mountain. We made a stop in civilization to restock our groceries and ... [Continue reading this entry]

Black Canyon National Park, Colorado

Friday, May 27th, 2011
May 14th-16th The weather was warm and sunny when we woke up, but there were black clouds and storms rolling in by the time we left. We could see rain falling in the distance, but managed to avoid it for most ... [Continue reading this entry]

Colorado bound: Great Sand Dunes National Park

Friday, May 27th, 2011
May 13th-14th We left Taos early in the morning to begin our journey towards Colorado. Neither Fabien nor I had ever been to this beautiful mountainous state. The road followed the Sangre de Cristo Mountains and was relatively flat despite its ... [Continue reading this entry]

Direction: Taos, New Mexico

Sunday, May 22nd, 2011
May 10th-12th On an intense trip like ours, sometimes we need to take off a day or an afternoon to catch up. That’s what we’re doing today. I’m about two weeks behind on my blog journal. The last two weeks will ... [Continue reading this entry]

Reunion in Santa Fe

Sunday, May 22nd, 2011
May 7th-10th Santa Fe is the quaint capital of New Mexico as well as the home of two good friends of ours we met while living in Prague, Kristen and Joseph. Actually, we met Kristen in Prague and then Joseph came ... [Continue reading this entry]

Acoma Pueblo and Albuquerque (New Mexico)

Sunday, May 22nd, 2011
May 7th We awoke on Saturday morning, ready for a new day, a little weary of sightseeing, but excited to see our friends in Santa Fe. There were, however, a couple of sites to see en route. We started the day ... [Continue reading this entry]