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Life in the big city…Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Monday, February 6th, 2006

After Melaka, our next stop was Kuala Lumpur, a true urban jungle. Actually, for a capital city, KL is quite small and manageable. The population is only 1 million and the city is well connected with public transport. It is truly modern; towering skysrapers dot the skyline, while an above ground monorail, links the major areas together. We stayed in Chinatown, on a relatively quiet street next to the main thoroughfare. After an easy two hour bus ride, we still had a little energy to visit the main shopping street of Chinatown: block after block of Adidas shoes, Rolex watches,DVDs, Polo shirts…all copies of course. You can outfit yourself like a movie star for under $10. We resisted the temptation to shop, we’re saving the real spree for China itself. The sweltering heat knocked the energy out of us, so after dinner in an air-conditioned food court (noodles again!), we headed back to the guesthouse to drink a beer and relax.
The next day we visited the infamous Petronas Towers, the tallest towers in the world. They are 452 meters above sea level. (A little info from the web-site: The floor-plate of the Tower is designed based on geometric patterns common in architecture of Islamic heritage. It is composed of two rotated and superimposed squares with small circular infills. These geometric figures have been described by architects as symbolising unity, harmony, stability and rationality – all important principles of Islam.) They were impresssive, jutting above the other other skyscrapers. It’s possible to take the elevator to the skybridge which is less than halfway up the towers (170m), but they limit the tickets per day and when we arrived they only had tickets for the late afternoon. We had a couple of hours to kill, so we caught the monorail to the National Museum. The Museum had an enormous and impressive collection, including many cultural displays on the different ethnic groups in Malaysia, pottery and arts and natural history. This is where we first got to see the kinds of bugs we would encounter in the jungle. Yikes! After the museum, we headed back to the towers, to go up to the skybridge. From the skybridge, you get a real sense of the height of the towers. At the halfway point, you already look down onto the roofs of the surrounding high rise hotels.
The evening we met up with friends of Bruno (a friends of Fab’s who lives in Beijing), Fabrice and Janet, for a coffee, then a fantastic Vietnamese meal. It was fun meeting locals (well Fabrice is a French expat and Janet is his Malaysian wife) as they gave a sense for what the city life is like. Fabrice told us that Malayasians favorite past time is eating out, it’s not hard to believe when you see the number of restaurants in KL. You can find anything here, the standard Malay, Chinese and India (which is local fare) plus every other Western and Asian cuisine you can imagine. I can’t help but admit that Fab and I were intrigued a bit with the idea of ex-pat life in Asia.
The next day, we took a local bus about 10km from town to visit Batu Cave famous for a big Hindu temple. (I don’t know how many temples we have visited by now…) This one was particularly interesting because 1) it’s inside of an impressive cave and 2) it hosts a big Hindu festival, called Thaipusam, when devotees of Lord Subramaniam prove their faith by piercing their body parts with metal spikes and hooks. We were actually just a week too early to see the festival…darn. After visiting the cave, where were saw some interesting carvings and some devotees performing more standard rituals, we headed back to the city to visit the National Mosque and Islamic Arts Museum. The museum was quite thorough and educating. There were scale models of the most famous mosques and mausoleums in the world (including many we had seen and India) and the ones in Mecca. I also enjoyed the beautifully ornate copies of the Koran and samples of calligraphy. We are getting quite an education on world religions on this trip, but it is fascinating (and sometimes frightening) to see how much religion influences the development of society.) Our last evening in Kuala Lumpur, Fabien and I were craving sushi, so we went to a gourmet supermarket where we bought two mixed plates of sashimi and maki, 2 drinks and a fruit salad for about $5. Life is pretty good here.

Welcome to Asia- Our Arrival in Singapore

Monday, January 30th, 2006

Our flight from Chennai to Singapore was nice and easy. We were fed well for a four hour flight (which was a savior since we had saved only a few rupees to have lunch at the airport and when we arrived we found out the prices were about 4X Indian standards.) We crossed several time zones, so we had a 2 1/2 hour jet lag, it was almost 10pm by the time we got through customs. Getting off of the plane was a culture shock, western automatic toilets with toilet seat covers…an enormous shopping mall in the airport. We took the incredibly efficient and immaculately clean metro (MRT) to our hotel. I couldn’t help but feel self-conscious, not because people were staring at us, but because I immediately felt incredibly dirty. My backpack cover was filthy, my shoes and socks still stained red from the clay roads in Matheran, holes in the pockets of my capri pants. As I looked around the metro, everyone was dressed in the latest Western fashion, listening to their Mp3 players and writing text messages on their mobile phones. Had I just gotten off and airplane or a spaceship to the moon?
When we arrived at our MRT stop, Farrer Park, appropriately located at the edge of Little India, we emerged to a world that reminded me of Walnut Creek, California. Wide freshly paved roads, with digital walk signals that told you how many seconds left you had to reach the otherside of the crosswalk, numerous highrise apartment complexes, perfectly manicured lawns and sidewalks. We checked into our hotel (situated next to a Buddhist temple) and asked for advice about where to get a late night snack. They directed us to the main road where we could find 24-hour stalls selling delicious and cheap Chinese food. We each had an ice cold Tiger beer, and shared fried rice and BBQ pork ribs, perfect snack right before bed…
The next morning (Thursday), we woke up bright and early around 10:30AM, I had to drag myself out of the comfy bed (soft mattresses, fluffy pillows and sheets are a rarety in budget guesthouses.) Our itinerary: visit the colonial district and waterfront, do some shopping (much needed restocking of supplies) and catch a show at the Boom Boom Room (a cabaret.) First stop was the Colonial District, where our friends the British, left their mark on Singapore. The area is on the waterfront and encompasses the City Hall, the big Asian Civilizations Museum, the Opera House and several important bridges and statues. We took an easy walk (a nice pedestrian sidewalk where bikes are not allowed; fine: 1000SD, about 500USD) until we came into the heart of the business district. Here we decided to look for lunch (along with all of the Singaporeans on their lunch break.) We found one of the many infamous food courts, that offers up numerous varieties of Chinese, Indian and Muslim foods. Here we chose another Chinese dish, this time a giant noodle soup with with chicken and various other flavourful creatures. Singapore feels like a very miniature version of the U.S.A, with a lot of Asians. After lunch, we decided to visit the Fountain of Fortune (the largest fountain in the world) which was inside of a giant shopping mall. Actually most of Singapore is a series of shopping malls connected together by underground walkways. (It’s a bit of an exageration, but at times it did feel like that.) We were a bit like kids in a candy store because we found everything we needed and didn’t know that we needed easily, including things like Skippy peanut butter and root beer for me, and French baguettes and saucisson for Fabien. After a full afternoon of shopping, we returned to the hotel to grab a bite to eat before heading out for the evening. Unfortunately, we found that the Boom Boom Room (famous for it’s drag cabaret) was closed, so we chose a little bar on the waterfront to enjoy a cocktail and some live music before heading home for the night.
When we arrived in Singapore, we found out that we had chosen our timing well, we were there just in time for the Chinese New Year. (Singapore is 77% Chinese, 14% Malay, 8% Indian) So it was sure to be a big event in Chinatown. Friday morning, we decided to visit Little India in the morning, do some camera shopping, then check out Chinatown. There are a couple of spectacular Hindu temples in Little India. Most of the Indians are Tamils, from South India, and the architecture is similar to what we saw in Chennai and Mamabalipuram. The temples have very colorful and elaborate carvings on the roofs and the inside. There’s also some good souvenir shopping, but we passed, considering that we had already sent home several boxes of goodies from India. We then went to a giant IT shopping mall (Fabien’s dream.) Due to a little camera mishap (see last picture post), we needed to get a new flash memory card, and we also found a nice zoom lens for my camera. We are ready for the birds in the jungle!!! This country is dangerous for the budget. After a nice break, we went to Chinatown to see the New Year’s light up (there were red lanterns strung from building to building as well as other colorful decorations) as well as big new year’s markets selling noisemakers, firecrackers, and lots of little Chinese odds and inns. We escaped a small rain shower, by visiting the Chinatown Heritage Center, where we learned about everything from the desperate plights of the Chinese immigrants in the 19th and 20th century to their modern successes today. The evening, we decided to be glutionous Westerners, feasted on hamburgers and fries and went to the movies. We saw “Memoirs of a Geisha,” which I liked as much as the book and would highly recommend.
Saturday (our last day), was Chinese New Year’s Eve. The morning, we packed a picnic and went to the park. We climbed up to the highest point in Singapore where we could see Sentosa Island (a resort island) and the big, bustling port. Apparently, Singapore is the busiest port in the world, and we would agree after seeing the the number of ships going in and out of the port. We visited another park, Fort Canning, in the afternoon, where we could see remants of the old fort, as well as lots of exotic trees and spices. We splurged and went to a restaurant on the waterfront, then ended the evening in Chinatown with fireworks at midnight to welcome in the Year of the Dog.
Sunday morning (Chinese New Year’s Day), we packed up and caught a bus to our present destination, Melaka, Malayasia. It was an easy 4 1/4 hour bus ride. It is a very tropical climate here, hot and humid, and everything is extremely green. Melaka is a historical town in Malayasia, it was occupied at various times by the Portugese, the Dutch, the British, and the Japanese (during WWII,) so it has a unique blend of history and architecture. Our first impressions are that the people are very, very friendly here and that things are very modern (though it’s much cheaper than Singapore.) There are several major ethnic groups; the Malays, the Chinese and the Indians are the main groups. Last night we went to Chinatown to visit the night market, which was alive with people out celebrating the New Year. Today we had full day, visiting Villa Sentosa, a typical,old Malaysian house that is now a living museum. Various family members give tours of the house, showing you traditional Malayasian furniture, clothes and telling you about various customs. It really gave us the feeling that Malayasians are serious about hospitality. Then we wandered through Chinatown by day, and visited a couple of Buddhist temples. The first, the oldest and Malayasia, was packed with people putting incense in front of the various statues and praying. Then we had a typical local dish, chicken rice balls and a fish cake, made with a delicious coconut curry. We also visited the old Dutch quarters, which is now mainly museums. We got a good dose of Melakan colonial history and saw some nice exhibits on the traditonal local wedding customs. (It is a long and involved ritual to get married here, so don’t worry, we won’t elope 🙂 We’ll visit a few more sights tomorrow morning before catching a bus to Kuala Lumpur (the capital) which is only two hours away.

A few last words on India

Wednesday, January 25th, 2006
Fabien wrote a beautiful, all-encompassing, reflection on India in French. Sometimes when I read his posts, I feel like he captures the feeling better than I do. But for those of you who are only reading the English version, I ... [Continue reading this entry]

A Little Taste of Tamil Nadu and French India

Tuesday, January 24th, 2006

Pondicherry was the capital of French India until 1952 when it became part of the new free Indian Republic. The city seems to have had two strong influences, first the French and second Sri Aurobindo who along with "the ... [Continue reading this entry]

Let’s go south

Wednesday, January 18th, 2006

Hello from Pondicherry. Fabien and I have just one week (after 3 exciting and exhausting months) left in India. We are flying to Singapore next Wednesday to start the next leg of our trip in southeast Asia.
The last weeks, ... [Continue reading this entry]

Welcome to Mumbai…A Rough Start to a Great Stay

Friday, January 6th, 2006

Right after our cooking lesson, we left directly for the bus station. We were taking a 17-hour bus ride to Mumbai. My stomach was rumbling, too much food for the cooking class and something wasn't agreeing with me. ... [Continue reading this entry]

Indian Kitchen

Friday, January 6th, 2006
We spent a couple of extra days in Udaipur after Christmas to enjoy the atmosphere and to take a cooking class. We've grown to love Indian food, and I wasn't convinced that I could create any of these amazing dishes ... [Continue reading this entry]

A Christmas Message from Udaipur

Tuesday, December 27th, 2005

Poinsettia found in the hills near Darjeeling For our last stop in Rajhastan, Fabien and I chose Udaipur to spend Christmas this year. Udaipur has a ... [Continue reading this entry]

A Few Statistics

Wednesday, December 21st, 2005
Fabien and I usually write our own blog entrys, but for this one I'm going to translate his calculations. Following are a few interesting statistics about our Indian adventure thus far. Highest altititude: 3800 m/11,400 feet Minimum temperature (In a tent at ... [Continue reading this entry]

Rajasthan

Tuesday, December 20th, 2005

TODAY IS OUR 8 WEEK ANNIVERSARY IN INDIA! 15 WEEKS OF TRAVELING SINCE SEPTEMBER.
It's been a week and a half since my last update. A lot can happen in a week and a half when you're traveling in India.

From ... [Continue reading this entry]