Giant snails and giant grubs in Kisangani (notes)
Zaïre, 1984
Notes from 10 days in Kisangani:
On the Market I bought two giant land snails (“more protein in each than a steak!”), declined the offer of a wriggling grub the size of my forearm and found a kind of berry that tasted of apples. To me that was a miracle. A sign that I had been right to ontinue the journey on my own. I did not have to be homesick any more — missing the taste of apples.
One of the snails escaped and I set the other one free.
On the camping ground of the Hotel Olympia, I met my first “adventure travel writer” (he was staying in the hotel) whose eyes popped out when I recounted the stories the Frenchman had told me.
In a small village I got my hair done by the sister of a guy I met and the sound of distant drums followed me as I walked home in the dusk.
I went for a dance and had so much beer forced down my neck that I was burping for 2 days. The music is magic. Has been since Central Africa. It will be with me forever.
I met Steve, a German smuggler who walked hundreds of kilometres through the jungle buying gold — only to have it confiscated. He told me always to ask for the chief of the villages I would pass on my journey.
The Austrian Roland, married to Kenyian Sophie, left for Nairobi hours before I could ask them for a lift.
I left on April 25th with Italian docs Rafael & Janni & nurse Beta. Rafael was only joking when he said I could work with them in Mambasa.
Words in Lingala: M’bote=hello, Sangoneri= what is new, Sangate=nothing
Tags: Cairo to Capetown, Tag Index
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