Globetrotting

Our last two days in Thailand were centered around visiting a prisoner in Klong Prem Central Prison. Our plan was to see an English-speaking prisoner, who may not get many visitors making the long journey to Asia.

After doing a bit of reading I came across a prisoner support organization’s website that was rather old, but it did have lists of prisoners in various prisons around the world. It was a start. I sent an email to the group and waited for a reply. This was something Melissa and I wanted to do above all things in Thailand, and after reading more about some of the conditions and horror stories we were compelled more than ever.
It seemed it would be possible if we had the right information. I received a reply from the support group saying that visits had been cut out, especially from Bang Kwang (perhaps the worst prison in the world), excluding family. The only option remaining was to talk to an embassy directly. I had read that British prisoners in Thailand usually have to sit out their entire sentence (which can be very lengthy) while their American and other European counterparts are usually sent home much quicker, to face their respective judiciary courts. By no means do I believe that serious crimes should go unpunished (some of the guys in these prisoner are undoubtedly pretty bad dudes) however it seems rather silly to send an Italian home after 5 years, while a Brit rots in his cell for a lifetime for the same offense. This inspired us to visit a fellow English speaking, Englishmen.
I contacted the British Embassy in Thailand and in know time I had an open line of communication with Mr. Jeff Mitchell, who not only appreciated our pledge of support, but also sent out letters and set up the visit around our scattered, travel plans. We didn’t know whom we’d visit, or why he (we knew the prisoner was male) was incarcerated. All we knew was that he could use a visit.
Melissa and I were pretty nervous. What would we say? What shouldn’t we say? We didn’t know how much or how little he would want to tell us? Conversely, on a great trip ourselves; we didn’t know how much of our “good times” would be appropriate to share? We hoped for the best. I couldn’t begin to image what this person must be going through. In a cell, far away from anything that resembled home, all alone, with the constant stream of thoughts that could, undoubtedly, drive one mad.
August 8th we woke up in Bangkok. The day before we leave Thailand, and ironically enough by American time 5 years to the day that I was released from my brief stay in the low security jail known as LCF.
It stared with a trip to the Embassy. They required us to show them our passports and receive the necessary documents that would get us inside. Actually this was my first time in any embassy and it was a little weird being the only Americans surrounded by a dozen British folks jabbering about taxes and their Thai wives. We tried not to talk much. Eventually we were called into a special room to be briefed. They had prepared everything. We had a map, our official documents, and a memo for a taxi driver to deliver us there with no fuss.
We arrived early. Klong Prem Central Prison, aka the Bangkok Hilton, is a compound of 5 prisons total, with prisoners separated accordingly i.e. narcotics, violent, women’s, etc.

It was obviously regular visiting hours and many families and people were gathered about different parts of the courtyards outside the prison. We went inside to a room (as instructed) and waited where foreign visitors seem to wait regularly. I figured as much when two Mexican ladies came to wait as well. The Thai guards were extremely intimidating, yet incredibly helpful. They march about, never at ease, equipped with fatigues, guns, and faces that seem chiseled from stone.
We passed through many doors, fences, gates and checkpoints. Finally we checked our bags in, but kept our valuables on us. Through a courtyard we approached a building with and overhang that had a long bench in front of a glass screened wall. The guards sort of left us on our own. Slightly confused and looking about I saw a smiling face through the glass. Paul greeted us right away. “Hi guys, shall we come down here?” Thailand had taken some toll on his accent, yet he was undeniably British. He appeared healthy, in good spirits, and had obviously recently showered and shaved for the occasion. I figured he was about 28 (I about 5 years shy). He had shaggy long hair, all combed back and a small touch of a goatee. All in all, a good-looking chap I’d say.
Trying to see through the reflection on the glass, and get our voices into the screen below, Melissa and I introduced ourselves. He thanked us immensely. During his 2 ½ years in prison, he told us, he had had only a few visits. Once his family, and a couple of random people like us. His cool demeanor and welcoming smile immediately alleviated all of our concerns.
We knew we were on the clock and didn’t waste any time. Melissa and I talked about our travel plans, and comings and goings. We talked about Thailand, the good and the bad. We told him our story, the short version, and then he told us his.
It turns out we had more than a bit in common. He was a chef by trade in London, and took up long term traveling with his girlfriend. They came to Thailand and fell in love with Phuket. So they bought a bar and decided to stay. As he recalled these memories his eyes showed that they had been great times, and he had been very happy. The tsunami of 2004 wiped them out. They lost it all. He took up cooking jobs and they were getting by, but I can only assume all was not well. One particular night Paul and his girlfriend had a huge fight. They were both very drunk, and things got way out of hand. She hit him, and he hit her back. She fell and broke her neck. As he spoke these words our hearts sank.
Thailand has no manslaughter charge within its courts, so Paul was charged with murder. Luckily he received the minimum sentence, 10 years. Had there been the slightest bit of evidence to suggest there was any intent on his part he would either be dead, or in for life.
He told us the time is doable. He gets to spend most of his day outside, and he receives 1500 Baht ($44) per month from British charities. “If you can buy a pack of smokes and some decent food here and there it’s not nearly as bad”, he mentioned after telling us how unbelievably awful the food is. He did say though “the best thing about prison…I’ve lost 22 kilos!” He spends his nights sleeping on the floor, and days focusing on staying in shape and out of trouble.
The British embassy takes very good care of their prisoners. In addition to the charity, a consular comes to the prison to check on him every 6 weeks. This ensures his safety. The Thai guards are terrified of the embassies. Whereas the Thai prisoners get beat and abused left and right, the foreigners get a bit of leniency. Paul told us when he writes his embassy they write back, regardless, and promptly. This was much more than he could say for his American friends. What he told us about the Embassy of the United States was appalling. He has two American friends who are completely lost. They receive little to no communication or support from the states. One of his friends has been cleared for release 7 months ago, and yet he waits for the United States to “pick him up” on their time. 7 months extra time, for no good reason. In the mean time he wasn’t able to see his father before he passed away, and missed the chance to be at his funeral. From what Paul told us it seems that Americans in Thai prisons are truly forgotten by their country. It made us wish we had visited an American prisoner, yet we received no reply email from the American embassy of Thailand.
Before we new it our time was up. There were so many questions we didn’t get to ask. I could have sat there for hours. We plan to stay in touch and write him letters from time to time. He’s do to got back to England in about 3 years given his good time and the regular amnesties given out by Thai royalty. He wants to one day move to Cambodia and start his own restaurant. I’d like to go there.
Paul was a very nice man. I couldn’t imagine anyone being in his shoes and having a head any straighter. He certainly isn’t a murderer. He’s barely even a criminal. He wasn’t smuggling drugs, or involved with any mafia. He never took an illegal risk and hoped for a big pay off. He did hit his girlfriend, and ended the life of someone he loved. I was happy we were able to meet him, and have a nice conversation.

~We’re back in Japan now. Our Internet access has been limited. I wrote this a couple weeks ago after our trip to Koh Chang Island.~

We hopped on to the ferry just as the gate began to rise. The engine of the huge boat revved and we chugged across the straight to Koh Chang Island, just off the coast of Trat city.

In the hierarchy of Thailand beaches Koh Chang isn’t the grandest, but it was our only chance to be beach side while in Thailand. We had become slightly frustrated that after four months in Asia we had yet to actually swim in the ocean, so we jumped on the opportunity.

The beaches of Puhket, on the west side of the southern peninsula, are revered as the best (which also covered with high end resorts and overpriced restaurants) of the country. On the other side of the peninsula the islands and beaches are considered second best, and the islands of and around Koh Chang are third. The beaches of the main land and around Pataya are said to be the worst and full of garbage, prostitutes and German mafia. However, all of the top three have beautiful white sandy beaches and crystal clear water.

Number three was good enough for us. From Bangkok it was only a 5-hour bus ride, and a half hour ferry (this directly followed our 11 hour bus ride from Chiang Mai). Once we landed we took a taxi to the south west side of the island to Kai Bei beach. Given that it wasn’t peak season we found somewhat gloomy skies and very cheap bungalows.

We paid 400 Baht (about $12) each night for our own free standing room right on the beach with the ocean just a seashell’s throw away. It was beautiful and despite some clouds we still managed to get a bit of red to our faces. We spent our three days swimming, exploring, and enjoying the company of one another, with the waves rushing to our feet.

This was after all our first wedding anniversary. We were married on a beach, in a hidden cove of the great state of Nebraska, and it seemed fitting to be on one again. We both couldn’t believe it had been a year already since that hot day in South Bend. We reminisced about the good times we all had, the delicious vegan wedding cake and all the amazing vegan food, the cold Lazlo’s beer on tap, and the bluegrass of the Toasted Ponies. Not to mention an amazing guest list of our friends and family we miss so much. Starring into the ocean it really sank in, we had come a long way in a year, in so many ways.

These were by far our favorite days in Thailand. Relaxation and peace and quite was exactly what we needed after our previous jungle excursion and the busyness of the cities. It was rather hard to wake up in the morning and make our way to the port.

We did though, excited in a new way. We had only one last adventure in Thailand…visiting a British citizen in a Thai prison.

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