BootsnAll Travel Network



Last of Egypt

October 8th, 2007

(Unless something exciting happens tomorrow)

Well, the Mt Sinai glow did wear out quickly.  I took a cab from where my backpack was stored in Cairo to a hotel in Giza where I planned to hole up until I could fly out and also to see the pyramids again.  The taxi driver quoted me a price and I went higher to 30 Egyptian pounds to make sure he did exactly what I wanted.  I only told him the pyramids.  While on the way, I told him the specific location – Mena House Hotel at the pyramids.  When we arrived I handed him 30.  He told me 50.  Another one!!!  No, thirty is what you get even though you now think it should be double the going rate because we are at the gate of a nice hotel.  Exactly, why I negotiated the price based on the pyramid entrance in front of the hotel and not the hotel.  He told the guards what was going on as I pulled out my bags.  I told them they were out of line and we agreed to 30 which I paid.  I walked right past them and the driver put yet another curse on me. 

The pollution this morning was the worst I have ever seen.  I did not visit the pyramids because I can barely see them.  I cannot wait to get out of this country.  I am hiding in my room.  Maybe tomorrow I will see them again before catching my overnight flight to Nairobi on the way to Madagascar.  This country has the most fascinating things I have ever seen yet I really don’t ever care to return because there are 80 million people forming the lowliest culture I have encountered.  This place is a mess.  I hope Egypt can find its way, but I don’t have a good feeling on this one.  In fact, I have less hope for this country’s future than Cuba’s.  I do fear a fundamentalist movement and that fear is mostly about what they will do with the treasures – the art that depicts life forms which is directly against the teachings of the Quran.  This country is way over-populated given that they can only live on 5% of its total land (rest is basically unhabitable desert) and it seems like a runaway population boom is ongoing.  Their president is clearly a dictator and one that we support because the alternative may be worse. 

It is really horrible to be in this position of saying that I just saw the most amazing sites and possessions possible yet I hope I never have to come back.  I want to come back to see more, but I really don’t care to ever have to be an asshole just so I can survive all the creeps and scammers that pop up around almost every corner.  I certainly would not recommend this place for a vacation.  I say go to Egypt if its holdings are as important to you as they are to me, but beware of every person who comes your way until you are sure they are not going to try something.  And do expect your lungs to age a bit!  I can imagine that doing Egypt in a group would insulate you a bit from the scum, but I do warn you that a lot of the packaged group tours look quite miserable and you are never going to be totally removed from the corrupted culture.  Maybe a small tour with a good guide would be best.  Also, I highly recommend never coming here during the high season (October – April and July – August) because it has to be absolutely nuts.  The reason to come here to have real contact with the antiquities would be impossible during the high season so I really do not see the point.  Maybe when the next terrorist attack occurs (I am that sure that it will happen) then right after that would be the best time to come since the crowds will be down (repeated pattern) and maybe the locals would be that much nicer.  Or maybe they would try even harder to separate you from your money!  I’ll be optimistic and say they are going to welcome you with open arms and smiles.  Yeah right…   P.S.  I have photograph overload and don’t know when I will get any uploaded.  Also, thanks for the great company, Peggy.  I am so glad I did not have to put up with this insanity on my own.  You made a steady keel for my shaky ship!  Thanks for putting up with my Egyptian Diatribes!  What’s the most important word for travel in Egypt?  “NO!!!!”

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Mt Sinai

October 8th, 2007

After resting, eating a nice lunch and resting a bit more we went to St Katherine’s Monastery to start the hike up.  We decided to watch the sunset rather than sunrise so leaving at 2:00 PM put us on top of the mountain around 5:00 PM.  The walk up was a nice path until the top when it joins the Stairway of Repentance trail (3000 steps up the mountain built by a monk) and another 750 steps run steeply to the top where a chapel can be found.  The views during daylight are stunning all the way from our hotel, past the monastery and to the top.  We noticed a number of chapels or monasteries on the way up and there were hermit “huts” as well.  During the way up I thought about Moses taking this same general path on his way up.  Actually, I thought about Charlton Heston doing that since most of the images I have of Moses and the Exodus are from the Ten Commandments movie!  I suppose that the Exodus started in Thebes so this is all quite good for us.  I believe I am going to the church in Ethiopia where they say they have the real Ark of the Covenant.  I like the idea of seeing where the Exodus started, where the tablets were handed to Moses, where he probably broke them (wadi area below monastery which is suppose to have been the site of the golden calf) and where the container that supposedly has the broken tablets resides (later in trip).  I like the story of Moses as well as the rest of the Old Testament because Christianity, Judaism and Islam have at least something in agreement 🙂

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St Katherine

October 8th, 2007

Last night we flew from Luxor to Sharm el-Sheikh.  At the Luxor international airport, our driver has to turn over his ID in order to take us in, but like so many of the Egyptians taxi drivers (fools with a car and no driving lessons) he does not have one.  So instead, he hands over baksheesh and the security guard let’s us through.  Everyone can be bought here – I am not kidding.  We arrived around midnight and found a cheap motel.  We had a 7:30 AM bus to catch.  Smarm looks like Las Vegas minus the tall casinos (it has plenty of short ones) and it has beach flavoring since this is the hub of beach fun and internationally famous for its SCUBA diving with the best coral in the world (so I have been told).  It’s a bit sad that I have come through a place that would have been a gateway to a week of diving off a boat in the Red Sea according to the original plan until my ear problem came back last year.  Oh well, we are not here for gambling, diving or whatever else goes on.  We are headed to St Katherine’s Monastery on at Mt Sinai to climb the mountain where Moses received the ten commandments, visit the 6th Century monastery (still operating) and see a descendant of the bush that burned (yes, I am a little skeptical).  But now I am sitting out at our nice little buglaow rooms here at Daniela’s Village near the monastery.  I am feeling better because we have escaped the relentless heat and the touts.  The bare rock mountains that surround this place are bright in the sunshine under a pure blue sky.  I need this break because we had to go through another incident with a taxi driver. Read the rest of this entry »

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Temples II – The Cult of Isis

October 8th, 2007

So the second day of our two days outside of Luxor took us to Abydos and Dendera temples.  Since we were not headed towards Aswan, the convoy is considerably smaller and therefore the visits are a lot nicer.  Both temples are in exceptional condition.  Abydos has seven temples dedicated to the seven main gods including Osiris, Isis and Horus.  Because its ceiling remained in place, its hieroglyphs are in top condition.  Dendera is mostly known for its zodiac which may be the oldest astrological artifact in the world.  It was taken by the French and resides in Paris (of course!), but a replica is in place. 

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Temples I – The Convoy

October 8th, 2007

We spent the last two days in Luxor on private tours of four temples upstream and downstream of Luxor.  The Egyptian government started using police led convoys as a way to thwart terrorism starting about 17 years ago.  Since that time there have been numerous attacks mainly in Sinai at hotels, but also the major attack at a temple in Luxor.  I’m not sure why they reason that the convoy helps, but we were stuck taking a tour because all traffic carrying tourists must go by convoy.  The first day was spent at Kom Ombo and Edfu temples located almost in Aswan south of Luxor.  The second day was spent in the opposite direction at Dendera and Abydos temples.

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Sweeney Todd – The Demon Barber of Luxor

October 8th, 2007

We had a down day just to relax after so many exciting days and because we have two more big days in Luxor before heading to Mt Sinai.  We did some logistics stuff like by airline tickets and tours to temples to be seen outside of Luxor.  We also visited the small mummification museum where we learned a bit about why the mummified humans and animals and how they did it.  I can’t say it was the most exciting museum, but it was done very well and reaffirmed that Egypt can build a good museum.  But what I really want to discuss about this day was the simple visit to a barber for a haircut that caused my opinion of Egyptians to totally bottom out.  Note:  You’re probably tired of me reporting about how bad these people are, but I feel that they taint the experience so much that you are better off knowing all I have encountered in case you ever brave coming here.  In order to be able to survive, you have to understand just how low they will go.

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The Phollies Continue

October 8th, 2007

The morning started off with a bit of a funny.  The total jerk tout from yesterday morning was sitting outside out hotel where we ran into him.  He saw us coming and hid his face.  I just sneered when I walked by and thought it interesting that someone so hardcore could be embarassed by his behavior.  Peggy wished him a good morning thus confirming that, yes, we recognize you and won’t forget.  The walk to the ferry was full of more touts none of which are memorable now that they are hitting us up all of the time.  We fling them to the side because we are all over their stupid ways.  We cross the river and meet up with Farook once again.

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Valley of the Kings

October 8th, 2007

There is a downside to being here during the low season.  There are more scam artists per tourist!  And believe me, we are meeting all of them.  Today was Peggy’s birthday and our big plans were to go to Valley of the Kings where Seti I, Ramesses II, all the other big names and the biggest one of them all, King Tut, were buried.  We decided to take a ferry over to the west side of the river and then hire a taxi to drive us to the different sites for the day.  Right outside of the hotel door, a tout latched on to us.  We asked him to leave us alone and that we already had plans, but he would not do so.  He quoted us 450 Egyptian pounds to drive us and we knew that the going price was 120!  He accompanied us to the other side.  He said he would pay our ferry, but I told him we wanted nothing to do with him.  He then said something to the ferry operator (a kid) in Arabic and next thing I knew we were being charged 10 pounds each rather than the real price of 5.  I was already pissed off and I insulted him as best I could.  When he continued, I told him that he must not have understood how much I disliked him and that he should be offended by what I said.  He continued on.  We found a taxi driver that said 75 pounds.  I told him that I would give him 120 and that he would do exactly what I told him to do with no deviation and that he would not be taking us to any shopping adventures.  He liked that I was that straight with him and he liked the price and we were happy.  But then the tout was yelling in Arabic at our driver and I knew he was trying to extort money from him (finder fee!!!).  I told the driver that he was not to pay that jerk any money and then I yelled that at the tout.  He was furious and once again I was cursed, hexed and evil eyed.  I am now approaching pure disgust for these supposed humans.

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Luxor By Torture Train and More Phollies

October 2nd, 2007

We boarded the train a few minutes after the scheduled departure time of 8:10 PM.  We had a sleeper car and the overnight train would get us in around 5:00 AM.  After a dinner whose description by our Paranoid Planet book was accurate (similar to airplane food), the attendant folded down our beds.  The bed was comfortable enough and I had the impression that I would sleep pretty well since I always fall asleep on trains due to the rocking motion.  Unfortunately, it soon became apparent that sleeping would be a challenge. 

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Pyramids, Temples and Tombs – Pharaohs’ Phollies

October 2nd, 2007

Yesterday and today Peggy and I visited the pyramids just south of Cairo at Saqqara, Dahshur, Memphis and Giza. It was quite a thrill seeing pyramids for the first time from the taxi we hired yesterday. Our first visit was Dahshur’s Red Pyramid. It was very impressive from the outside and like many of the pyramids it was open for visiting inside. I went in first and was faced with a long chute which was only a meter or so in height. I could see the bottom and knew this would be a long way down. The rock chute has been overlaid with wood with attached metal crossbars that act as steps. It would have been fun to slide down, but the metal bars prevent that. I chose to go down face forward hunched like a baseball catcher and it seemed to work fine. About a third of the way down the hot tunnel, I met a group coming up. I started to get very claustrophobic and almost aborted, but talked my brain into accepting that this was OK. After the group passed, I scurried down as quickly as possible. At the bottom I found a large empty room which smelled strongly of ammonia which I assumed to be part of the pyramid. They had facilities for pumping in fresh air, but it did not feel like fresh air had existed since the pyramid was built. Peggy thinks the smell is from cat urine from rat patrol, but I doubt any cat would ever climb into that pit. The locals call it the Bat Pyramid and although I saw no evidence of bats maybe that is the cause. The room did not have any hieroglyphs which disappointed me, but you could look up and see huge, perfectly cut blocks of stone that overlapped forming an interior pyramid shape up to the ceiling many meters above. I am sure “WOW” escaped my lips. I crouched down and slipped into the second room which contained wood steps up a couple of flights to another room. As I climbed those steps, I knew the catcher crouch method for coming down was probably a mistake as my thighs screamed. The last room was the burial chamber and it was a bunch of rocks strewn about. No sarcophagus and no hieroglyphs, but it was still awesome and quite nice to have the place to myself. As I climbed out (much easier than in) I passed Peggy who was doing the standard entry (not known to me, of course) by going in backwards or same position as climbing out except in reverse. Pyramid Lesson Learned!

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