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The Captain Says the Envelopes are Empty

Wednesday, February 7th, 2007

OK, so I told you how I did two trips to the Galapagos and the first one was magical.  I decided halfway through the first visit that I would return with my niece who was meeting us in Quito rather than do Banos and Cuenca as planned before moving on to Peru for Machu Picchu.  Folks suggested to me that it might not be a great idea because it might be a letdown since it will be following such a stellar visit.  I agreed that it would because it would be a cheap visit rather than the high end excursion of the first trip, but I also said that regardless of cost the wildlife and scenery would still play out the similarly.  And it was important to me for my niece to see it.  I’m happy to report that it was worth doing for the reason I stated.  I am also sad to say that we were able to see the truly ugly side of Galapagos traveling and how that is potentially destroying this wonderfully unique place.  Truly another case of scratching the fine veneer surface painted for the casual visitors and seeing that the veneer is thin and the coating something not so pleasant.

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Greatest Show On Earth

Tuesday, February 6th, 2007

That’s what National Geographic calls Galapagos Islands.  I would have been skeptical after what I saw in Africa, but it’s National Geographic making that pronouncement.  Well, being the ultimate skeptic, I was, but I decided to have a little faith in my favorite world journalists.  I am more than happy to report that I have seen what may be the greatest show in the Universe.  Best of all, my sister, Julie, joined me for such an amazing experience.  We were lucky to see wildlife acting in ways that they just don’t exhibit anywhere else.  Sea lion pups “walk” up and nuzzle you.  Sea lion parents frolic with you in the water.  Blue-footed boobies put on a courtship dance including exchanging sticks as if they are exchanging vows and wedding rings.  Reptiles called marine iguanas swim in the ocean.  Eleven species of giant tortoises exist on the islands.  Sharks swim with fish and humans and all are content.  Sea lions play with iguanas and crabs.  Pelicans and just about every other animal allow humans to walk or swim within a meter of them without balking.  I’m still at a loss regarding why the animals allow human contact.  The common wisdom is that they did not have contact with humans and did not learn to be afraid of humans as predators, but this seems to be a myth when you learn about buccaneers wiping out most of the tortoises and that fishing and other hunting went on until the last few decades.  One day we were snorkleing at Devil’s Crown and I was acting like the third sea lion with two real ones.  I looked down and three meters below us was a shark!  I stopped acting like a sea lion immediately knowing I was the slow one, but I had to wonder why the sea lions would hang out around a shark.  Another day and we found two sharks cuddling near a large school of butterfly fish.  I kept my eyes on them.  I looked for the group and they had all turned their backs on the sharks as if that was ho-hum, just sharks.  I guess even the humans get conditioned to hang out with the predators without worries very quickly in the Galapagos.

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Travel Colombia

Thursday, January 18th, 2007
I was told that you could just see the drug money in Bogota because of its great avenues, buildings and high-end boutiques.  We´re all afraid of Colombia travel and there is obviously some validity to that since it has heavily ... [Continue reading this entry]

Don´t Stand, Sit or Camp Under the Coconut Tree

Thursday, January 18th, 2007
Over Christmas week I did a kayak trip with Explorer´s Corner of Berkeley to the San Blas Archipelago in Panama. It seems like a lifetime ago (Bacu and modern Panama City and Colombia have made it more dreamlike than real) ... [Continue reading this entry]

Bogota

Monday, January 15th, 2007
Yesterday I met with Denisee who I met on the plane from Panama to Bacu.  Denisee is Bacuan living in Bogota.  I don't think I mentioned our plane encounter before.  She was sitting next to me and for half the ... [Continue reading this entry]

Anniversary and Great Expectations

Sunday, January 14th, 2007
Today marks three years since Chris' passing.  I'm sad, but I am also grateful that the last year went so much better than the previous and I expect the same patterm to continue.  I went to the top of Montserrate ... [Continue reading this entry]

Bacu Notes

Saturday, January 13th, 2007
I thought I would follow up the best of Bacu with the worst of Bacu, but that would be depressing.  Here is some random notes that I made while visiting... How to Control the Masses With Freedoms First, you pay ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Best of Bacu

Saturday, January 13th, 2007
Below is the best that I have found in this challenged country. I´m sure there is more that I have not seen although just about everything in my guidebook has turned out to be major hyperbole. I now understand that ... [Continue reading this entry]

Off the Rock

Thursday, January 11th, 2007
One of the best moments of my travels was arriving in Panama this evening.  I escaped the prison I call Bacu.  For those struggling what country is Bacu... too bad, you´ll have to think harder (and play with the name)!  ... [Continue reading this entry]

Escape from Alcatraz – Foiled!

Sunday, January 7th, 2007
Right after my last post, I decided to get out.  Bought a bus ticket for El Capitolio.  Planned to catch a taxi immediately to the airport from the bus station and see if I could catch the same flight I am ... [Continue reading this entry]