second time around

I have missed a few days, but trust me they were busy and wonderful. The drive down to Reno was good, some back roads and light traffic. Memorial day we drove the long flat road to Salt Lake City, got in and walked around Temple Square and had dinner. The next morning I checked at the LDS Genealogical library for some information, but no luck. Then we headed south on I-15 toward Zion National Park. You can make some good time going 80 (the legal limit). Just a little up the road prior to Zion we pulled off to look at Kolob Canyons. A short but beautiful five mile drive got us up to the lookout which was stunning. The deep red walls of the canyons and a view out over the plateaus all the way to the Kaibab Plateau of the Grand Canyon were well worth the hike at the end of the road to the viewpoint. I did not realize the plateaus of Utah are so high up. I have been hiking trails at 7-9,000 feet! Gasping and clutching at my chest but I can’t wait to see what is around the next bend. We stayed at the Cliffrose Lodge in Silverdale about one mile from the entrance to Zion National Park. Our room’s porch overlooked a river and a range of cliffs that were striking. We watched them for a couple of hours as the sunset shone on them and changed the colors, until it got dark, Just amazing.
Wednesday we got up early and beat the tourists to the park. They don’t allow driving up the canyon, everybody takes the shuttle and gets on and off at several stops. The sights are breathtaking. We had sun breaking through, lighting up the hills and almost no other people. Saw deer, a turkey, squirrels, Ravens, and even the “great white throne” (mountain not commode.)More hiking (gasping) and by the afternoon we felt we had seen enough of Zion’s canyon, so we set off up the road to Bryce Canyon. That was a totally different but equally impressive experience.

Since the captioning isn’t working so well, these pictures are: 1) a random lizard 2)The Great White Throne in Zion 3) Hoodoos at Bryce and believe me they are big, the green are trees not shrubs 4) view from the North Rim.

The nature of the stone at Bryce is different, so the erosion pattern creates these tall spires called Hoodoos. They are very large and delicately balanced, fields of them. Again dramatic vistas paired with up close amazing geology. Like they say, “you can’t cure stupid.” I had to look away while some tourist kid stepped out onto a tiny ledge for a photo-op. No joke, a slight slip and he would have been gone.
The next day was for the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. There is a reason it is called “THE Grand Canyon.” It is hard to put into words, and pictures and video are so lame. This place has to be on your bucket list. Staggeringly beautiful, it just leaves you slack-jaw dumbstruck. Tonight we are in beautiful downtown Blanding Utah (pop. 3218).

Tomorrow Bill and I are headed out of Medford, Oregon and down through Reno toward the four corners. Oregon-Reno-Salt Lake City-Saint George is about 1250 miles. Hoping the memorial day traffic isn’t too bad.
I enjoyed the drive back to Olympia, except for being disappointed that the Pacific Northwest Bigfoot Society Museum was no longer open in Elma when I passed through. My brother Bill came up to Olympia and he,John, Sue and I had a nice visit for a couple of days, and then he and I came to his home in Central Point (Medford area) Oregon. Been kind of rainy and cold the past few days, but should be hot soon enough. We took a side trip to the Mt. St. Helens visitor museum. It was interesting, though the overcast weather meant we couldn’t see the mountain. Through Portland and down to the Rogue Valley in the off and on rain.

Another wonderful day, but then again aren’t they all. I checked email in the lobby and had breakfast before setting out on the trail. First I went on the recommended 1.6 mile Falls loop trail. It was so special not having to share the morning with hordes of tourists. In retrospect it was a blessing that the Galapagos cruise was sold out and we had to come to the west first, we missed all the crowds. I was strolling slowly (making my bear noise) and just feeling it all. At one point a couple came pressing up behind me and strode on down the trail. It is a short LOOP TRAIL! It crystalized my understanding of what most of us do, certainly myself as much as anyone: we drive onward toward the “destination” without realizing we are already there. THIS is the destination, the journey is all there is. I don’t mean to say fast is worse than slow, just that the focus has to be where we are, not where we might be some day. Ram Dass said it succinctly: “Be Here Now.” I did enjoy that moment. Thought about commissioning a real artist to paint my picture of the nature of reality. Perhaps I will start a sketch on this trip. Thought about the intertwining of the parts of the forest, each piece fits in and does a part, none more none less than the other, just their own part. The sunshine is very special here. The way it seeps into the forest in little spots and plays with the shadow areas is sometimes very surreal. I slipped on down the road to see the “worlds biggest Sitka Spruce.” Gotta say it was some big assed tree! Scored a 922 on the American Forestry Association Scale whatever the hell that is.

Then I went to where the heart is: the 1/2 mile “Rain Forest Nature Trail” near Willaby creek. Simply the best walk of them all, definitely an E-ticket ride. If you walk this trail and God doesn’t touch your heart, then the Devil already owns you. I remember being here with the kids 15 or so years ago. It is such a wonderful mix of water, open forest and then large old growth trees. I think I found the fallen tree we walked on, smaller than the giant my memory had created, but then again what could compare? Again alone in the forest, except for the perception of everything of course. The briefest of glimpses of the way I used to feel the world around me, and I can’t stop the tears.
On up to Amanda Park for a burger and homemade Clam chowder. Wouldn’t you know, divine providence; right next door is a liquor store (in Washington no less!) Then a slow and easy drive along the north shore road, about half of it paved and over to the south shore road to get back to the Lodge. A two hour, twenty miles of heaven. Only had to back up once to let the second other car I saw get around, and I was on the drop off side. I got a nice look at the large black bear in the glade. He was a big boy! I noticed the rather large square built log/dirt/rock structures in the river bed. Asking at the ranger station was told that the First People were pushing the government to do something about the run of the river. Before anglos came here the large trees slowed the channels and made good spawning areas. Now the river runs too fast and wild, and the fish don’t live. Appropriate that it takes the First People to push the rest of us to restore what is right. As I have said to myself so many times in the past few days, “it is just stupid beautiful here !!” I wish that the pictures could show the amazing colors of green in the forest, but they are only pictures. As I used to say sarcastically at work but now mean it: “another day living the dream.”

Awoke finally to the grey overcast and misting of the Northwest that I remember. I had the breakfast special here at the hotel, and it was great, a crab omelet. Out the window I noticed a Pine tree like the two hundred year old one we saw at Miyajima Island in Japan, at 3-4 feet high it was turned, and grows sideways, with supports. It was part of a long path of Japanese style garden. I drove east, back to Sequim (pronounced Skwim) and went out on the Dungeness Wildlife Refuge. As I stopped at the “scenic view” and walked up to the fence on the cliff’s edge, two eagles flew out from right under my feet, and proceeded to cruise back and forth right in front of me. Several crows didn’t like that and chased after them. One of the eagles landed on the cliff top edge twice and didn’t seem to mind me being 15 feet away, which was great.

I walked about 1.5 miles out the spit, but didn’t think the 5 miles to the lighthouse was worth it. Washington beaches are a different thing than Florida for sure. The heavy rock load, all round and smooth, the giant logs and stumps, the smell! Some call it fishy, but I love the briny, salty odor here. It reminds me that the ocean is alive with kelp, fish, birds and all. I don’t know why it is only cold water oceans that have this great smell, warm water oceans either don’t smell, or are actually fishy. After my walk there I went to the Native Art Gallery. The S’Klallam tribe has a bit of ground with a tribal center, art gallery, and of course casino. The art was nice, but pricey. I pressed on to Port Townsend. It was the end of the Rhododendron festival, with the parade. Unfortunately the weather this year made them all a bit late in blooming, but the festival was enjoyed none the less. Port Townsend was going to be the main city in the area in the late 1800’s but there was some economic bust that made the railroad not come out to here. Prior to that all the ships came here. Without the railroad, all the ships passed on and went to Seattle which grew huge, and Port Townsend collapsed to a few thousand, mostly farmers. Now it is having some resurgence as an artist town and haven. The local museum was interesting and then back to Port Angeles with a brief stop at the casino to donate $40 to the cause.

What a nice ferry ride, fast and smooth with clear skies and great views. The Cascades and Olympics were snow capped and beautiful. John and I had a nice visit and dinner with nephew Peter, Caroline and daughter Valerie. The next morning we did the Seattle tourist thing and it was fun. We took the Monorail to downtown and walked down to the Pike Place Market. We were ahead of the crowds, so it was very easy to stroll around. I had some Salmon shipped home, as the season had opened three days earlier! We strolled down the waterfront, pausing at the John T. Williams memorial totem pole project. He was a wood carver killed by the police, truly a sad event. I had to have a lunch at Ivar’s Acres of Clams, a Seattle landmark. It was very good, the chowder is the best! As we went to the Seattle Art Museum we found out it was international Museum day and admission was free! Ain’t life grand?

There was an exhibit from Nick Cave and his “soundsuits” which are incredible hand made suits/costumes made for improv street art. check it out on google, very amazing. We made it out of Seattle just in time before rush hour closed in.
On down to Olympia and a nice visit with brother John and Sue. We walked some of his property and I learned a bit about the trees and harvesting them. I had a great oyster dinner at the aptly named “Characters Corner” (the local bar) which got the oysters from 1.8 miles down the road, so they are fresh!

I had a wonderfully relaxed drive up passed Hoods Canal to Port Angeles. I went up to Hurricane Ridge for a spectacular panoramic view of the Olympic Mountains (including Mount Olympus!). Of course at 5200 feet and no sunscreen my face is pretty beet red now!

Today is the first day I have been completely on my own, and I am comfortable and at peace with it. I am still looking and planning the next few days, but soon I will calm down and just “be here now”. I caught a view passing by the harbor here of logs being loaded onto a ship for Japan or China. They are buying the logs to stockpile and of course we are happy to take the fast buck with no thought for the future. Look at the size of the ship, these are not small logs.

Well it is certainly a good thing that God looks out for fools. I misunderstood David to say “wait at least 15 minutes before buying bus tickets while on the ferry” He actually was warning me that they only sell the tickets at the beginning of the 1 1/2 hour ride. So when we went to the bus ticket counter there was nobody there! A little searching and asking around found the drivers eating lunch and by pleading stupid they sold us tickets and did have our luggage on the bus. At least I got that part right. The Coast Harborside Hotel is very nice, good location, and even has a shuttle bus for local drop off and pick up from downtown. Poe may have picked up a little bug, and was not feeling too well, so we rested and the next day was drizzly, so we went to the B.C. Museum and saw an IMAX of Caves and then toured the museum. John Lennon’s Rolls Royce? I guess why not?

The natural history and First Nations part of the exhibits were great, then we had a quiet evening.
Monday we went to Butchart Gardens and were blown away. Even though it is a little early in the season here, and the roses were not blooming yet, the place is incredible. Clearly a must see in Victoria.

As soon as we got back to Downtown, we walked into the Fairmont Empress for High Tea, another quintessential experience in Victoria. It is overpriced of course, but none the less an experience.
This morning we got up at O-dark-thirty to get Poe to the flight home. The airport is 15 miles north and the airport shuttle was here at 4 AM. Now I am getting ready to catch the Victoria Clipper Ferry to Seattle where I will meet brother John.

Yesterday was just a magical day! We awoke early and there was not a cloud in the sky. The deep blue Albertan sky brought out the edges of the mountains in a special way. We headed down the Icefields Parkway to Banff. What a spectacular drive, it may just be the prettiest road in the world. We went up the Banff Gondola and had an absolutely amazing view 360 degrees of grandeur. From above the sight of the Fairmont Springs Hotel was impressive, quite the place. We tried for the Cave and Basin hot springs, but it was closed, doing some construction. So we went to the Natural History Museum. Built in 1903 it was incredible. The building was wood, with exquisite workmanship, repaired and just amazing. The collection of birds and animals inside were equally impressive. They were mostly 100 years old. We spent a couple of hours marveling at all the exhibits. Checked out the differences between ravens and crows, caribou and elk, and wolverines and badgers. I noted that they had many Mule deer, but no white tailed deer.

Late in the afternoon we drove on down to Calgary, arriving in mid rush-hour traffic. I dropped Poe at the hotel, and fought my way down McLeod Trail to return the rental car. Some angst as the time got very close to closing, and I overshot the Hertz place, got gas and did some U-turns in traffic to get back in time. Dropped the car and caught the subway/train back to town. After a bite of dinner, we relaxed and got some sleep, but not too much, as the alarm was 04:30 for catching the Rocky Mountaineer train. The train is just entering the mountains now, and it is a gorgeous day, wonderful sights and I am thinking it will be nice to relax for the next two days.

The train ride was incredible, again perfect weather and spectacular sights, the remarkable Rockies, and spiral tunnels cut into the rock. We had quite a long day though, as the boarding was 05:30 and we got into Kamloops at 7;30 PM with an hour time change to boot. Then we had a dinner show booked, which was somewhat cheesy, but fun none the less. Five actors playing all the roles, some great old time music and good voices. Up the next day for the ride down through the Frazier River Valley to Vancouver. There were lots of Osprey and Eagles, but not too many animals. We had a wonderful stay with cousin Donna and David, and spent the next day visiting and touring with them and my “new favorite cousin” Sheila and David. We skipped the touristy Capilano suspension bridge and they took us instead to the Provincial park, Lynn Canyon and the suspension bridge there was not crowded and just as impressive. Then they took us to the Granville Island Market, a lot like Ghirardelli square in San Francisco. I got to taste Salmon candy. It is smoked salmon marinated in Maple honey. It was interesting, OK but not all that. Now we are on the ferry from Tsawassen to Victoria, a pretty ride and on to a great city.

We are staying in the historic Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise. Our room is on the 8th (top) floor dead center of the building, so looking out the window is exactly the view you see on all the postcards. Back at Jasper we couldn’t see the Edith Cavell glacier, as the road wasn’t open yet, but did get to walk along the most amazing Maligne canyon. 150 feet deep and 20 feet across. It was incredible. The drive down the Ice-fields Parkway was somewhat disappointing as the weather went from fair to closed in and snowing. We did get to see a black bear on the roadside, and a great view off of Sunwapta Pass. This morning the sun came out and today the views are simply gorgeous. After a hike along the lake trail, we took a drive and went back up the Parkway 20 miles, just to see it in sunshine and were not disappointed this time. Spectacular!! The Canadian Rockies are so much more than can be expressed in words, or even pictures. I am glad we started the journey with this particular place, it helps put the world into focus.

It was great seeing the cousins and sharing a wonderful meal at their home. some of the leftover canadian money I had from the last time I was in Canada raised a few eyebrows, as it was 20+ years old, but they finally took it. The weather has been holding, a few showers but mostly great. The Rockies are incredible, they touch the spirit. I saw the old gravel pit where my father was raised on the farm in the twenties, had a nice night and then drove out of the flat plains and through the rolling foothills into Jasper. We immediately saw big horn sheep, a couple of Elk, beaver den and the mountains are spectacular. It is the very beginning of the season, the first campground opened today and there are hardly any people here, just right! The Pyramid Lake resort was originally built by my uncle Henry, and the staff are impressed, but have no old pictures of the place, so I think I will try to get some for them to hang around to show off the history. No time to write, must be off to see the sights.

Well here it is, I am actually on the road. The past few days have been crazy hectic, with a last minute flail over the change to the RTW ticket. I ended up with multiple phone calls, and promises to correct the rate and issue the ticket which I have 72 hours to then trade in the previous paper tickets for the new ones. Leaving for Canada I tried at the Orlando Airport and used most of the time prior to departure with no success and finally on my 3 hour layover in Denver I went out to the ticket desk and in an hour and a half of phoning was able to get the tickets changed and printed out, so now the major parts of the big trip are all in place. This morning we are headed out from Calgary to Edmonton for a short visit and on to Jasper and Banff.