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Traveler’s Paradox

Saturday, September 29th, 2007

Siena’s beauty is easiest to appreciate late at night after the endless herds of tour groups have had their way with the tiny mid-evil town. One night we went out with two Swiss girls, Laura and Nathalie, who we met during a wine tasting at a vineyard in Crete. We entertained ourselves by chatting our way around the narrow maze of streets and getting very lost. Thankfully Siena is a walled city, so we couldn’t stray too far. Eventually we found a place for dinner and drinks where we swapped facts about of our respective homelands and laughed about the selection of American TV shows that make their way over to Europe; the most popular being 90210, 7th Heaven and ER. We suggested they try Seinfeld and Arrested Development for more quality American television. It was nice to show them that at least 2 out of the dozen or so Americans at the wine tasting were capable of communicating something beyond crappy jokes about how drunk they were going to get (or how drunk they were last night.)

Siena was the first place where we encountered tourism gone overboard on such a ridiculous scale. I’ve come to think of the frustration we felt as the “tourists’ paradox.” Essentially Lauren and I are nothing but conceited tourists who hypocritically resent tourism itself. However, it is important to keep in mind the difference between a traveler (what we would like to think of ourselves as) and a tourist (what we are annoyed by.) Travelers try to appreciate a certain culture and really experience it, while tourists just want to look at it as if it were an attraction at the zoo. From the sound of many loud and imposing conversations in Siena, it seemed like most middle-aged Americans thought of Tuscany more as an extension of Disneyworld rather than a real place worth respecting. The tourists we resented were the ones that acted like they were just there to cross Siena off the list of places they’ve been and kill a few days by shopping in the meantime.

Maybe this theory amounts to nothing but the worthless rant of a smug, young, wanna-be adventurer who’s too busy complaining about the over-commercialization of an otherwise quaint Italian town to see that he himself is the cause of his own scorn. Or maybe I am justified in insisting that people should either act like they care about wherever they are visiting or stay at home on the couch. That’s for you to decide, but at least I got it off my chest.

Anyways, despite the aforementioned distractions, Siena was very beautiful and interesting. We bought some ceramic pieces from a local artist whose “contrade,” or neighborhood, had recently won the most important Sienese event of the year – The Palio. Horses from the 17 neighborhoods of Siena bring their jockeys to the central square (Il Campo) for a race to decide which part of town deserves a year’s worth of bragging rights. Her horse had won, so she bragged.

Facile, Facile, Facile

Saturday, September 29th, 2007

Federico, the freelance photographer we hung out with during the White Night, lives on a small Tuscan island called Isola D’Elba. When we told Diana about our plans to relax for a few days on the beach at Capri she suggested we instead go to Isola D’Elba for a less polluted, less touristy, and less expensive time. We caught the ferry with Diana and Federico’s promise of emerald water and hidden beaches.

Upon arrival we were looking to rent a car. We’ve learned that the best deals come from the place that looks the most dilapidated and Rent Chiappi fit that description. Inside we found three 70 year-old women playing what looked like an intense game of bridge. The gang disbanded and the ringleader explained slowly enough for us to understand that she could rent us a Fiat Panda. When the deal was done and the Panda was ours, we asked for directions to our hotel on the other side of the island. She replied with “Facile, facile, facile,” (it’s easy, easy, easy) along with some sort of vague hand gesture presumably in the direction we needed to go. That insider information plus a map that looked like a 5th grader’s rendition of Elba Island would be our navigational tools.

My friend Judson once described my other friend Eddie’s Hyundai as barely meeting the minimum requirements to technically qualify as an automobile. That same description came to mind as I popped our sea-foam aluminum box into first and shuddered off towards the west coast in search of Patresi. Oddly enough, the drive did turn out to be “facile, facile, facile” and roundabouts where the gambling grannies of Rent Chiappi had gestured.

Not a lot happened during our days on Elba Island – which is exactly what we were hoping for. There was a lot of sun, a bunch of little beaches, and plenty of wine. On the last day we circumnavigated the whole island and sang Stevie Wonder songs before returning our radio-less, yet charismatic Panda.

Elba is gorgeous and not yet infected with the plague of mass tourism. The same cannot be said for what was our next destination – Siena.

Two Indulgences Please

Monday, September 24th, 2007
You know you are close to the Vatican museum, home of Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel, when you see the giant line of ‘pilgrims’ wrapping around about a quarter of the tiny Catholic nation. We passed the time by doing a ... [Continue reading this entry]

Gibli No!

Sunday, September 23rd, 2007
How do you even begin to talk about Rome? It's the most astonishing environment I've ever been thrown into. Modern civilization seems out of place, like a middle-schooler hanging out at a bingo hall. Although the city ... [Continue reading this entry]

Australians Hate Fosters

Friday, September 21st, 2007
The guy sitting next to Lauren and I on the plane bound for Rome pulled out his laptop and a cloud of dust puffed from his keyboard. He was an Australian soldier anxiously awaiting his two weeks of Roman ... [Continue reading this entry]

Danmark

Friday, September 21st, 2007
Copenhagen is Scandinavia after being hit with 10,000 volts of Danish attitude. The endless graffiti, easy rider bikes, Vikings, hip-hop clothes, squatting psychedelic villages, and little mermaids all crash together in a chaotic cultural pile-up that you just can’t ... [Continue reading this entry]

Almost More Blueberries Than I Could Ever Eat, Almost

Thursday, September 20th, 2007
After 22 days of traveling, we realized we really didn’t need a decent amount of the stuff we brought, and decided to streamline our bags a little. We packed up a box, shipped it home, and my back has ... [Continue reading this entry]

ScandiFlavin

Monday, September 10th, 2007
One little island away from Old Town is the site of the Modern Museet – Stockholm’s Museum of Modern Art. We got to see a lot of art that had been covered in previous classes as well as some ... [Continue reading this entry]

Oslo

Sunday, September 9th, 2007
Upon our arrival in Oslo, we meet up with our first Servas host. Else and Karsten live in the heart of Oslo near Vigeland Sculpture Park with the sculptures and monolith by Gustav Vigeland. We stayed up very ... [Continue reading this entry]

Glasergenjord

Saturday, September 8th, 2007
On our last full day in Scotland we hiked Arthur’s Seat and then caught a train to Glasgow. We explored Glasgow and discovered a nice area near Glasgow University with a skate park full of rebellious youth and a ... [Continue reading this entry]