Boat to Battambang
Tuesday, December 4th, 2007The only reason we decided to go to Battambang, originally, was because we’d heard about the very scenic boat trip on the Mekong. We were a little apprehensive because all reports said the trip was from 3-8 hours. But, we wanted adventures so ok, off we go!
We were picked up in our minivan to transport to the boat with 10 other passengers. Now, Cambodians, are small people and regularly pile seemingly dozens of people on any given vehicle. (although 5 on one moto is our highest count so far). So, they seemed to think even with a minivan for 8 already filled with 10 westerners we could CERTAINLY fit in more! Two more people stuffed in and we were all laughing, saying surely this was it. Oh no, we had one more stop! A funny start to the day.
We arrived at the boat dock and found all of the “1st class”seats to be full. Meaning, reclining on the roof or hard wooden benches were left. No worries, we chose a bench inside hoping the water level was high enough to get us there in 4-5 hours.
The beginning of the trip was a wide part of the river, from one bank we could not even see the opposite bank. However, our path quickly got smaller due to the huge number of vines, trees, bushes growing up in the river. Wet season ended in Oct. and so the water level had already gone down quite a lot. It was a one way path winding through this, unfortunately, boats come from the other way as well so we had more than a few hairy moments where we had to turn the engines to idle and the passengers and crew literally PULL the boats past eachother hand over hand.
Then, we got stuck. Due to low water levels the boats had to really stick to a particular course and we got off it and after being mirred in floating debris, etc and having to have the crew get all the crap off the rudders we were off once again.
We just took one stop along the way to stretch our legs and get something to eat or drink. It’s amazing that many people truly live on the river on houses built of stilts or some living on their boats. A very remote existance for sure! All the children, as usual, would wave and scream hello.
The scenery got better the closer we got to Battambang with the sides of the river getting closer and more and more houses, towns, and people along the shores. We finally arrived in Battambang 7 hours after we departed Siem Reap, a long day to be sure.
Loads of touts from the hotels were eagerly awaiting our arrival and we went with the Chhaya Hotel, one we had already looked at online. It was an ok room, 2 double beds, decent bathroom, fan, aircon and a large window. It was $10 /night and very comparable to our hotel in Siem Reap that we had to pay $20/night for!
Battambang is definitely the backwaters. In our 2 days there we ended up with all of our fellow boat arrival passengers simply because there are only about 5 regular restaurants in town and everything pretty much shuts down at 9pm. First night was at Riverplace Balcony and Bar. $1.50 rum and cokes and good pasta for dinner. Then, since it was quite far from the town center Jim & I both piled on one moto with the driver for the trip back. Thankfully it wasn’t far to go!
Our only full day in Battambang we hired 2 moto drivers to take us out to the killing caves and an angkor era temple and then to ride the bamboo train. I’ve got to say it was one of our favorite days of the trip so far even though our bums were REALLY sore at the end! We headed out to the killing caves first, stopping along the way to get the flat tire fixed on Jim’s drivers moto. The killing caves were used by the khmer rouge to throw entire familes into the caves. Approx. 10,000 people were killed in these caves during the regime. Now there is a stupa on the hill and it’s used partly as a buddhist monastery.
Next about another 30min on the bike to the temple. 259 steps to the top with some fantastic views over the countryside. After being at Angkor itself, however, the ruins weren’t too exciting in themselves.
Another 45 min or so on the bikes to the bamboo train. The countryside is absolutely gorgeous and we passed houses and villages, people tending the fields or moving their cattle, children playing and waving. It struck me as I rode along how lucky we are… to be on the back of a moto cruising through the Cambodian countryside looking at an amazing history.
The bamboo train itself is something of a trip. It is 2 axles /wheels that they set a bamboo platform on, everyone and the motos are piled on , and engine goes in place, and off you go. The problem with it, other than how bumpy it is, is that others come from the other direction (including real trains!!!). We met a couple of other bamboo trains along the way and then there is a discussion… who has the most people and “stuff”to unload. Whomever has the least has to unload everything, remove the bamboo platform to the side of the tracks, move the wheel-axles off and the other direction gets to go past. Pretty interesting. Anyway, the bamboo train is only about a 20min ride and then a short moto ride back to the hotel.
It was about a 6hr day and were positively filthy with road dust, dirt, etc. and really in need of a shower. What a great day though.
On the way back into town we did pass a nicer house than most surrounded by a fence with a sign saying “Maddox Jolie-Pitt”on the gate. Hmmmm, knew Angelina had adopted him from somewhere around that area and locals would make mention of her occasionally so I guess that was it!
Dinner that night was a depressing affair, however. We ate at White Rose, a streetside restaurant with fabulous fruit shakes and good food. However, this area is even more poor than Siem Reap with loads of street children, etc. They would stand on the streets around the restaurant seating and everyone would buy them food or give them whatever they had leftover. It was so horrifying and sad that Jim and I only ate about 4 bites each and just gave them the food off our plates.Truly sad. But, when you visit a country you see the good and the bad and that day was had the 2 extremes of that.
The next day the bus to the capital Phnom Penh in the next blog.
Take care and Cheers – J&R
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