Southern India
As promised, I’m attempting to be better about blogging once again!
We’ve been down in Southern India for 1 week now and are enjoying it so much more than up north. We’re not freezing, for one thing, but the pace of life is just much more laid back here as well. Typical of the tropics.
Women here in the state of Kerala have much more clout than anywhere else in the country. They are actually out and about, working, willing to chat, etc. Many of the men, so used to seeing western beach goers are not such big starers but…today at lunch I again had a guy who wouldn’t talk to me and when Jim ordered lunch assumed I wanted the same thing. Have I mentioned yet that it is pissing me off???
We spent our first 3 nights at a bit of a splurge ($70/nt!) in Fort Cochin. It’s an island that is an old Portugese fort, also used by the Dutch during their spice trading heydey. Our Delight Guest House was just that. David, the owner was great, our room was large and beautiful with A/C and a great shower along with a balcony. The town is tiny and we spent the days walking everywhere, watching the local fisherman, and reading on our balcony.
After 3 nights there we had our first Indian train experience. We took a rickshaw to the station and acquiring the ticket (A/C class 4 hrs to Varkala) was no problem but getting anyone to tell us what platform our train was leaving from was a nightmare. No where on the tickets does it give the train number/ platform number/ or car number. So, we finally figured it out JUST as the train was pulling out and then had to force our way up about 10 cars (fully backpacked with tiny aisles spilling over with kids & luggage, etc) to an AC car. We were on board about 2hrs and the conductor came by to say we could move to the “correct” car or pay more. So, up again and finally in our correct place. Although he, also, couldn’t explain how we could have known that!
Anyway, ended up in Varkala and we’d made reservations for 4nts at Santa Claus Village, yep, silly name all right. The town was packed so we did end up taking the room which had a veranda with a lovely view of the ocean but without a doubt the most uncomfortable beds known to man. Truly, we’re more comfy sleeping in our backpacks on the ground! However, it was centrally located and as mentioned…this town was packed!
Varkala is a small town perched on a cliff overlooking the ocean with about 60 steps down to the beach. All of the restaurants and hotels are on the top and actual Varkala town is about 4km inland. It was a great place to hang for 4 days. We spent some of each day on the beach where you can rent beach chairs (ancient loungers) and umbrellas, but , alas, no drink service! Each night everyone would begin the parade to see which restaurant got their sunset viewing business for the day. Very peaceful. We read a few books, took walks everyday and caught up on emails.
Now, after another 2hr train ride (we got some extra info this time and it went smoother!) we’re in a town called Alleppy , which is the starting point for most backwater houseboat cruises. Kerala is famous for it’s thousands of kilometers of backwater and old rice barges have been converted to fancy overnight digs for we tourists! We’re here for 2 nights, taking the houseboat for 1 night, and then moving further inland to do some (hopefully) wildlife viewing and visit some tea plantations.
It’s hot & humid in this region of India…around 94 degrees F today and quite humid. Thank goodness for A/C sometimes! I know, I know, first too cold and now too hot! But, not complaining , we’d rather be in the tropics!
Hope everyone is well at home! Cheers, J&R
Tags: Travel
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