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Reflections on the Steppe

Tuesday, October 12th, 2004

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We are lucky…days are brisk but sunny…the sun glints off bare hills covered in golden fall grass. This feels like fall in southeast Oregon where I grew up. I soak it all in while Bob goes on a 4 hour hike through birch groves and box canyons full of grazing mustangs. How do you know they were mustangs I ask Bob…he says” they had labels on each side.” Places were steeper than he anticipated…had to run from one tree to another to keep from falling down the hill.

The next afternoon we paid three dollars to an elder Mongolian in traditional clothing to take us riding horses through the hills with him. Give him his head, I said to Bob who was trying to make his horse gallop! But there was no saddle horn on the tiny saddle to hang onto and it was difficult to post in the ornate metal stirrups. Mongolian saddles are definitely different than Western saddles I was used to as a girl in cowboy country USA. Still, the same freedom I used to feel…while riding…in the wind…in the hills…where I grew up… This is as close to heaven as it gets I thought…connected…connected to the earth.

Life in a Mongolian Ger

Tuesday, October 5th, 2004

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Terelgj National Park, an hour by car outside of Ulaan Baatar, is a spectacular valley surrounded by high eroded rock formations, pine covered mountains and steppes carpeted with sheep, Mongolian horses and perennial wild flowers. We are immediately taken by the tour company van to the ger (the word “yurt” is of Turkic origin that the Russians use) of an older Mongolian man who welcomes us with delicious yak butter on thin hard bread, two kinds of dried cheese and milk tea. We are told his wife is in Ulaan Baatar visiting a daughter who works for a mining company.

We walk behind a yak pulling a cart with our luggage up the side of a small valley to our ger which will be our home for three days. A ger is a round structure with a wooden lattice framework with long poles extending up toward the apex of the ceiling…all covered with layers of felt. Our ger sits on a cement platform covered with linoleum and carpeting. At the center is a hearth where the fire is considered sacred. The door faces south, men traditionally enter and walk to the west of the fire and the women to the east. At the north, opposite the door is the Khoima where valued objects like an altar for the Buddah and family pictures are kept. We have two beds with regular mattresses, one on each side of the hearth, a candle and small table. The mattresses and camel cloth blankets…”Gold Sheep Brand Wool En Bl Anket” all made in China.

It has snowed the day before and a young woman lights our fire in the evening and again, silently, about five in the morning. Our meals, are beautifully served in a large nearby ger.