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Stuck In A Train In Napflion

Wednesday, April 10th, 2002

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Train Trip to Nafplion

The next morning we walked to Syntagma Plaza to took the metro to the port at Piraeus for departure to some of the Greek islands by ferry. But we had just missed the ferry and since the train station was next to the metro we walked over and bought a $3 ticket to Nafplion 100 km down the coastline of the Peloponnese peninsula of Greece. Bob said he felt like he was on a train ride in Disneyland because the wheels had such a narrow gauge and the train jerked toy-like back and forth around the curves.

When the train stopped at the end of the run Bob debarked while I finished writing in my notebook and gathered up my baggage to follow him out. But just as I got to the door it slammed shut! Knowing how fast these trains had been arriving and leaving I urgently began banging on the window on the other side of the train where I saw a man standing-but he just stood and shrugged his shoulders! Then I turned back to the debarking side and saw the conductor so I banged on that window too. He looked up and laughed-apparently thinking it quite funny that I was stuck inside the train-and with some difficulty and after some seconds he finally got the driver of the train to reopen the doors. Bob, meanwhile, half a block ahead was oblivious of the whole thing! Some travel buddy!

But we were soon all laughing again when, as I walked up to Bob, a very funny Greek lady took all my baggage off my back and put it on Bob and told him to carry it for me. When he refused she repeated the gesture. Finally Bob-unable to communicate his displeasure- dropped my luggage and walked off. She ran after him insisting that he pay me one euro for making me carry my own baggage-to no avail of course. We laughed again as we waved goodbye-thinking that we liked this country!

Nafplion
Looking at the map I saw names I recognized from the Bible-and from Ancient History and Lit in school-Mycenae, Corinth, Olympia. Nafplio on the east coast of the Peloponnese, is tucked up against a Venetian fort high up an acropolis, the Palamidhi, and is approached by 899 stone-hewn steps.

Charming as the town was all the signs were in English which is a tell-tale sign that everything is adjusted for the tourist. We walked around for awhile and sat at the Napoli di Romania Cafe on the Boubulinas and watched the sun go down over the Guld while I drank a double Ouzo and Bob had a Cafe Frappe. You could see some ruins on an island a short distance out into the Gulf that later became a hotel for a time. A guidebook says that Melina Mercuri claims she consummated her first marriage there…

About 8 pm, when we walked into a totally empty restaurant, we thought it was closed. But it was open and exactly at 9pm Greek residents started rolling in for dinner. By the time we left at 10:30 pm the restaurant was full of noisy Greeks talking, eating laughing and listening to Bouzouki music.

The train back to Ireus was a riot-full of noisy young Greek soldiers going to Athens on leave. There were not enough seats; four German tourists had to stand but seemed to be thoroughly entertained by the bedlam.

St. Peter’s House

Tuesday, April 9th, 2002

The Vatican City, one of the most sacred places in Christendom, attests to a great history and a formidable spiritual venture. A unique collection of artistic and architectural masterpieces lie within the boundaries of this small state. At its centre is St Peter’s Basilica, with its double colonnade and a circular piazza in front and bordered by palaces and gardens. The basilica, erected over the tomb of St Peter the Apostle, is the largest religious building in the world, the fruit of the combined genius of Bramante, Raphael, Michelangelo, Bernini and Maderna. It is an UNESCO World Heritage Site.

In 1965 I had missed seeing the Vatican because I refused to stand in line three hours. So we took the Metro across the Tiber River to the stop near the Vatican and noticed that the trains in Rome are completely covered-every square inch-in graffiti-so much so that Bob thought that the local government had commissioned it! Not!

After 23 years of Catholic education for Bob and 16 for me, we approached the Vatican in complete ignorance-we knew next to nothing about the Vatican or the Pope-probably says something about being Catholic…or Polish. The Polish never did like being told what to do-and neither did Bob’s ancestors-German immigrants to the Ukraine.

We learned that the Vatican occupies 108 and one half acres within the confines of Rome. It is a separate city with it’s own postal service and does a brisk business selling its postcards and stamps that must be mailed in their own mailboxes. Seeing this made it hard to picture the Catholic church that once wheeled and dealed as the mightiest power in Europe.

St. Peter’s Basilica and the Cupula
St. Peter’s is called planning for the “long term. Planning for the short term is Oregon’s Governor Barbara Roberts being given a hard time because she wants to put a nice rug and some cherry wood furniture in the Archives building! I said as much to a Canadian standing next to me at the top of the Cupula (the dome on the top of the basilica) after climbing 350 stairs and suffering claustrophobia from the slanted walls. I told my Canadian friend that I thought the world was trying to tell us that our values are in the wrong place. His answer brought me up short “Yes, we are so practical yet because we are such a young society. We are still developing and building. Other ancient societies have already had their chance to learn what is important in life.” So now, while we name buildings after politicians and businessmen, Rome names it’s airport after Leonardo da Vinci!

The confessional area was lined with priests hearing confessions in many languages. Bob tried to find out if it was customary to give an offering. I asked him if he was planning on going…he said he didn’t need it at which I shot him the big poof of air that the French taught me how to do.

Meanwhile, Bob was watching the sun coming in one of the windows high in the nave magically illuminating all of one particular statue-the one of St. Helen. He wondered aloud if St. Helen “had something to say” to him-probably, he said brightly, “to keep up the good work!”

Sistine Chapel
Would take weeks or months to absorb everything in the Vatican museum and all the rooms of art (Bob was pretty energized by the modern religious art). In the half hour we were in the Sistine Chapel, Vatican monitors shushed us every 2-3 minutes which really raised Bob’s hackles! He said it reminded him of Sister Mary Barbara! But I said I thought the noise may be damaging to the art. Besides, I told him it shouldn’t be a circus in there. I just got a harumph in reply.

Before taking the Metro back to the hotel we stopped at a small cafeteria run by three energetic young guys who served up pizza, rice stuffed tomatoes in a great pomodoro sauce with those tiny noodles and a veal dish with another kind of pomodoro sauce at our streetside table. Either we were very hungry or this was the best food in Italy!

Rome

Monday, April 8th, 2002
"Italy will return to the splendors of Rome, said the major. I don't like Rome, I said. It is hot and full of fleas. You don't like Rome? Yes, I love Rome. Rome is the ... [Continue reading this entry]

Serendipity Florence

Friday, April 5th, 2002
Well, we are in Florence, by serendipity, on April 5, 2002. By that I mean that we were on the train from Cinque Terre on the Italian Riviera headed to Siena when we realized we would be going through Florence ... [Continue reading this entry]

Cinque Terre

Monday, April 1st, 2002
k08zEG1a840cNznVAe7p30-2006172142756225.gif Took a train to the Cinque Terre (Five Lands..or villages) area on the northern Italian Riviera. The Ligurian coast between Cinque Terre and Portovenere is a cultural landscape of great scenic and cultural value. The ... [Continue reading this entry]

Avignon France

Thursday, March 28th, 2002
knQlFSdvbI6pWFyrlGKiaM-2006172135618873.gif Took the train from Barcelona to Avignon in the Provence area in the south of France. Stayed at Hotel Mignon on rue Joseph-Vernet. Cute little French hotel room but the smallest loo ... [Continue reading this entry]

The New Young Brits

Saturday, March 23rd, 2002
In the train, before crawling into my compartment, I stood out in the hall and had a great conversation with a bright energetic young Brit (Richard) attending Cambridge. He had been traveling by himself on college break all ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Atlas Mountains

Thursday, March 21st, 2002
pjSwKsKjPzr5gOYYAx9PKM-2006172104421567.gif We took an excursion trip south and east past incredible green terraced fields and old Berber kasbahs (ancient Moroccan self-contained communities made out of the rust colored mud of the countryside)-seemingly idyllic-to the Atlas ... [Continue reading this entry]

Spanish Trains

Friday, March 8th, 2002
Spanish trains have compartments with room for six people. Luckily ours had two young Swiss girls that we recruited, a young guy from Japan that was studying Spanish in Salamanca for a few months but going to Portugal for ... [Continue reading this entry]

A Good Thing

Thursday, February 21st, 2002
It's a Good Thing to take along a tour guide and in this group that will be Bob-most probably because he has the greatest need to know where he is located at all times. On the train yesterday leaving ... [Continue reading this entry]

TVG Trains Better Than Hitching

Thursday, February 21st, 2002
High speed (TVG) trains travel over 200,mph. In 1965 when a college friend and I traveled through Europe; it took all night to get from Dover to Ostergard on a roller coaster boat! But then in 1965 the Captain invited ... [Continue reading this entry]

Chunnel Tickets in London

Tuesday, February 19th, 2002
When Bob went to the train station in London to buy a train ticket through the chunnel to France, they did not bother to tell him that if he had a Eurostar ticket for travel through Europe his chunnel ticket ... [Continue reading this entry]

Serendipity In Tashkent

Monday, September 18th, 1995
7Z3XBdt3hLmJjqkmk2I6k0-2006190121351559.gif In September of 1995 we flew into Tashkent, Uzbekistan from New York City on Uzbekistan Airways on our way to join an REI trek into the mountains in Kyrgyzstan. The night before we ... [Continue reading this entry]

Hitching-Hiking Europe In 1965

Thursday, September 16th, 1965
The summer of 1965, the summer I turned 21, a friend and former roommate, Barbara Stamper and I arranged to meet in London in June. She, a teacher, found an economical route to New York going by train across ... [Continue reading this entry]