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Guerrilla Band Wages War In Mexico

Thursday, September 20th, 2007

When I was living in Oaxaca during the teacher strike in 2006, people would often speculate about whether the EPR (Popular Revolutionary Army) in Guerrero was also operating in Oaxaca. At the height of the rebellion, when we were expecting the Federal Preventive Police to descend on the city, there would sometimes be rumors that the EPR was coming in. Most people doubted it. No one seemed to know. But then during the rebellion that lasted from June until the “hard hand” of the federal police came down on November 25, 2006, very few ever really knew exactly what was going on behind the scene.

Now that the APPO (Popular Assembly) consisting of thousands of teachers, activists, Unions etc have moved it’s activities from Oaxaca City to the pueblos around the state, it would seem that if the EPR is in Oaxaca, it is a significant development. It is also significant to the U.S. where the bombings of the pipelines pushed up the price of oil futures in New York.

Eduardo Verdugo / AP
The national oil and gas company’s pipelines were bombed this summer in attacks by leftist guerrillas that caused hundreds of millions of dollars in economic losses. The rebels are seeking the return of two missing militants. A rebel group responsible for costly attacks on pipelines accuses the government of having a role in disappearances.

By Héctor Tobar, Los Angeles Times Staff Writer
September 20, 2007

MEXICO CITY — — Edmundo Reyes is a slight, unassuming man of 55 who loves baseball and children’s literature. Until recently, he sold candy and soft drinks from his family’s corner grocery store in this city’s Nezahualcoyotl district.

In May, he left to visit relatives in the state of Oaxaca and never returned. His disappearance might have gone unnoticed but for the fact that it has set off a small war that has twice shut down a sizable chunk of the Mexican economy.

Unbeknownst to family and friends, Reyes was conducting a double life: He was a leader of a group calling itself the Popular Revolutionary Army, or EPR in Spanish. His comrades are convinced that he has been captured by “the enemy.”
[read on]

Thoughts After Re-entry

Monday, September 17th, 2007

I have been back in the house in Salem Oregon nearly a month now…a house I lived in for 35 years while raising the children…after traveling for over four years. Re-entry…always the most difficult part of traveling.

In Mexico, as in Asia, people practically live outdoors which offers great opportunities for interaction and friend-making. Here in Salem, I am savoring the fresh clean air and the QUIET! I can actually choose whether to listen to TV or not. Even the massage parlors in Thailand and the “comida corridas” (luncheon cafes) in Mexico were blaring with afternoon soaps. And driving here is heavenly! I totally understand why some people are objecting to Mexican trucks driving in the States! But I have to make an appointment to see old friends…no place to go to mix with people. I loved the Zocalo in Oaxaca…when I wanted to be with people I could just walk a couple blocks and always see someone I knew and could sit and talk for hours over a coffee. Even with my Mexican friends. I think though, even for Mexico, the layout of Oaxaca City, with the Zocalo and even the Centro as a whole, is a unique place and one of the reasons people love it there. I do miss it.

And then of course there is the shock of coming face to face again with a consumer society even though I am relishing the efficiency and customer service that comes with it. But the shock will never be as devastating as it was when I returned from Europe in 1965…a very radicalizing experience that shook me to my core. There is so much I could say about this… In the states we generally keep ourselves so insulated from death. I just groan and roll my eyes when I listen to people here complain about the most minute inconsequential things.

In Mexico you hear a lot of vitriol about global trade and NAFTA. The price of corn, the staple food for the poor in Oaxaca (the birthplace of corn), has risen and tortillas are 7% more expensive this year…a huge increase for people whose minimum wage is 50 cents an hour…even if they qualify. What’s worse, the people favor criollo (heirloom corn) which has a wonderful taste and the hand-made tortillas are delicious and moist…unlike those horrible sawdust-tasting things made by machine that you get in the states. The imported corn is cheaper than the criollo corn now and most people can’t afford the good stuff. And even worse, it is putting criollo corn farmers out of business which will cause the price of it to rise even more.

Yes, many people in Mexico are mad…except for the ones whose jobs and perks are tied to the power structure and benefit from the favors and the money creamed off the top by the government…money that never trickles down to the most destitute. With little rule of law, separation of powers, corruption and no transparency, the poor feel they have little choice other than to openly rebel. The middle class (many of whom are actually lower class by our standards) feel they have little choice other than to hold onto the status quo by it’s finger tips and was the most threatened by the 2006 uprising. It’s short term thinking, I thought to myself. If they only realized that if they were in solidarity with the calls for reform, justice and the end of corruption they too would benefit in the long term. But I also understand their desire to keep their distance from the internal disputes that have arisen within the rebellion because of the pursuit of personal and political agendas. The political and social implications are incredibly complicated and after a year in Oaxaca I felt I knew and understood little more than when I arrived.

And many expats in Oaxaca suspect that the CIA was afoot during the teacher strike last year…it is in the interest of the US and the Mexican governments to keep uprisings down because of the fear it could spread all over Mexico and to other leftist-leaning Latin American countries. And that is another story entirely!

For the moment I am occupied with tree trimming, pruning an overgrown yard, moss on the roof, resealing the deck, utility bills, auto maintenance. The housing market is in the tank right now so no time to sell. I am sorting through boxes and boxes of ___t that have been stored in the basement…stuff that I never needed in the first place and am now wondering what to keep and what to throw out…or give away. Four years living out of a backpack..a few t-shirts, couple pairs of pants and two pairs of shoes…taught me we certainly can live just fine without a lot of stuff in our lives although I do admit that half of what I carried was tangled computer and camera parts. Life was people centered those four years… I am struggling with incorporating perspective.

While traveling I got my news over the internet. After years of no TV I am now aghast at the trivia that is called news. I am noticing that almost every single maddeningly repetitious ad takes place in million dollar homes. “Average” families in the movies are filmed in million dollar homes. No wonder many people in the whole world, most of whom have never been out of their neighborhoods much less their countries, have a skewed view of beyond rich Americans! Even though by their standards we ARE rich. But when I told my motorcycle taxi driver in Viet Nam that one of my jobs here before retiring was managing a homeless program he was shocked. “Why they no work?” I didn’t even know where to begin. And “retirement?” Incomprehensible to most people in the world. “Jubilado” is the word in Spanish…I certainly didn’t have to live off the local economy where the minimum wage is 50 cents an hour and 68% of the people live on less than $90 a month.

In the zocalo in Oaxaca one day, I brazenly told an older Mexican man that I was amazed that the poorest of people living in squalid conditions all over the world could still laugh and be joyful. He just looked at me with incomprehension. That one look told me about all the preconceptions I was still unknowingly harboring about what is necessary for a person to be happy. This moment I will never forget.

El Grito in Oaxaca

Sunday, September 16th, 2007
A friend's report on the grito: "My observations are that indeed the zocalo was turned into an armed camp; I counted ten policemen on each corner of Garcia Vigil, and at the Alameda, along Independencia. Given that atmosphere, I went ... [Continue reading this entry]

Mexico’s Pipe Bombs

Saturday, September 15th, 2007
My expat friend in Oaxaca says "an opinion piece by Ricardo Rocha and published in the Oaxaca Noticias on Friday the 14th of September, has a few points I think worth calling to the attention of people outside of ... [Continue reading this entry]

“El Grito” Cry For Independence

Saturday, September 15th, 2007
In two days, Mexico will celebrate Independence Day on September 17. It is traditional for the governor to enter the Governor's Palace, now a museum since the teacher strike of last year, and utter the "cry for Independence" at midnight. ... [Continue reading this entry]

Battle Of The Corn

Monday, September 3rd, 2007
An expat in Oaxaca City has reported that "yesterday the campesinos from the Frente de Communidades of the Cordillera Norte descended into the Zocalo at the center of Oaxaca. they took out all the flowers lining the cement-walled plant areas ... [Continue reading this entry]

A Short History Of The 2006 Lucha (Struggle) In Oaxaca

Tuesday, August 28th, 2007
The following is taken from an article by John Ross written for the Fort Worth Weekly August 22, 2007 The mountainous southern state of Oaxaca sits at the top of most of Mexico’s poverty-indicator lists — for infant mortality, malnutrition, unemployment, ... [Continue reading this entry]

Meanwhile In Oaxaca

Saturday, August 25th, 2007
Last week the Governor of Oaxaca went to the United States as part of a group of Mexican governors where he was confronted with protests in several cities, including New York. Protesters in the street threw tomatoes at the restaurant ... [Continue reading this entry]

Watch People Paid To Attend The Gueleguetza

Friday, August 3rd, 2007
The Governor's people handed out money to those who attended the commercial Gueleguetza. The Governor wanted to make sure the auditorium was filled.

Eleven Hour Drive To Queretaro

Tuesday, July 31st, 2007
Well, I left Sunday morning at 2:30am and made it across Mexico City without getting killed! Made it to Queretaro about 1pm in the afternoon. We're planning on leaving for the border on the 5th...then to Las Vegas to ... [Continue reading this entry]

Still Another Voice

Monday, July 23rd, 2007
I have been invited to Max's this afternoon for pork loin. I know it will be good...he used to be a chef. But first I'll go the zocalo to watch still another march enter from the airport. ... [Continue reading this entry]

Another Voice

Monday, July 23rd, 2007
The voice of an American expat with family here who is invested in the life of Oaxaca:
The "commercial people," by and large, would have gladly gotten rid of URO (the Governor) a long time ago. The reason that URO is ... [Continue reading this entry]

Friendly Concern From Dear Friends

Monday, July 23rd, 2007
Here is an email exchange with a dear friend in Oregon. My answers are strictly from the point of view of an outsider...one who has only lived here one year and with limited intimate knowledge and understanding of what ... [Continue reading this entry]

Correcting The Record

Monday, July 23rd, 2007
I need to correct the record on the July 16 clash between the police and protestors in Oaxaca as I keep seeing mainstream and alternative media reports that the police were preventing people from entering the Fortin Hill auditorium where ... [Continue reading this entry]

Oaxaca Update

Saturday, July 21st, 2007
Saturday, July 21, 2007 2pm "Urgent" bulletins flying over the internet warn of the governor's plan to incite a violent showdown (see bulletin below, in Spanish) around Monday July 23, of the Guelaguetza, now being referred to as the "guerraguetza". The ... [Continue reading this entry]

Message From Doctora Berta

Saturday, July 21st, 2007
I received this information on a discussion site just now from a local expatriot who lives here: "For those of you who might not know, Dr. Muñoz, a medical doctor, became the preeminent voice of the popular movement on ... [Continue reading this entry]

Governor Blunders Again?

Thursday, July 19th, 2007
Rumors are circulating that as much as 50% (or perhaps more now) of reservations for the commercial Guelaguetza and tourist amenities like hotels have been cancelled. Attacking an unarmed and peaceful march exactly one week before the biggest week ... [Continue reading this entry]

Clash With Police On Fortin Hill

Monday, July 16th, 2007
Saturday night I got a ticket for parking in the wrong place in the Centro, so a bilingual friend in my apartment house generously accompanied me this morning to Santa Rosa on the outskirts of the city to pay my ... [Continue reading this entry]

Guelaguetza 2007

Monday, July 16th, 2007
Last year, the resistance "movement" (principally the APPO) that c0-0pted the annual teacher strike, boycotted the government-sponsored Guelaguetza, a traditional indigenous dance exposition that has been held at a specially built auditorium on the Fortin Hill... I think for ... [Continue reading this entry]

Perspective

Tuesday, July 10th, 2007
Pedro Matias, a journalist with 20 yrs of experience watching governmental abuses here in Oaxaca said recently that every hundred years Mexico seems to explode in revolution: in 1810 with Independence, 1910 with the Revolution, and people are now wondering ... [Continue reading this entry]

Contemplating Leaving

Sunday, July 8th, 2007
My one year visa in Mexico expires August 8. After visiting my son Greg in Las Vegas I should be back in Oregon by the middle of August...driving from Oaxaca to Queretaro to pick up my friend Patty who ... [Continue reading this entry]

Just Intimidation?

Sunday, July 1st, 2007
By Nancy Davies: Saturday Noticias printed an article saying an attack in the Zocalo was "suspended." Two organizations are involved: Consejo Ciudadano para el Progresso, which was quoted as saying, "the peaceful expulsion planned for this Saturday was cancelled at the ... [Continue reading this entry]

News From Mexico

Wednesday, June 27th, 2007
MEXICO SOLIDARITY NETWORK WEEKLY NEWS AND ANALYSIS JUNE 18-24, 2007 4. SUPREME COURT WILL INVESTIGATE OAXACA GOVERNOR AND FORMER PRESIDENT The Supreme Court will investigate Oaxaca Governor Ulises Ruiz, ex-President Vicente Fox and 15 other federal and state officials for human rights violations and ... [Continue reading this entry]

Oaxaca Zocalo Planton 2007

Friday, June 22nd, 2007
There are no uniformed police in the Zocalo where a new planton (encampment) of teachers and the APPO constructed its plastic awnings and banners on Monday June 18, but there are plenty of undercover police. You can tell...beefy well-fed ... [Continue reading this entry]

Mexico’s High Court Acts

Friday, June 22nd, 2007
Local watchers are watching cautiously. Nancy, a local expat, explains: "The Supreme Court of Mexico has decided to appoint a commission to investigate serious violations of human rights which occurred in Oaxaca between May 2006 and January of 2007. ... [Continue reading this entry]

Oaxaca June 14, 2007

Sunday, June 17th, 2007
_mg_5371.jpg DSC_0179.JPGDSC_0203.JPG by Diana June 16, 2007 It’s 4am in Oaxaca on June 14, 2007, which marks one year since the protesting teachers were violently evicted from the zócalo. And this year, no one is ... [Continue reading this entry]

Birthday Fiesta

Sunday, June 17th, 2007
Even though my birthday was last wednesday, I had preferred to stay in the zocalo to watch the June 14 commemoration. So last night I picked up friends Sharon and Max and we went to Mica and Bardo's for cena ... [Continue reading this entry]

Just For Fun

Friday, June 15th, 2007
Meri and Mary Rain, volunteers at the Casa de los Amigos where Barbara and I stayed in Mexico City came to visit me this week. They were great fun and kept me company on my birthday as we sat ... [Continue reading this entry]

June 14 Symbolic Strike

Monday, June 11th, 2007
On June 14, this thursday, there will be a megamarch at 10:00 am (daylight savings time) from the crucero of the aeropuerto to the zocalo. There will be a symbolic strike encampment in the zocalo, the teachers say 10% of their ... [Continue reading this entry]

Heading Off Another Year Of Unrest?

Monday, May 28th, 2007
This morning's news...for the benefit of the English-speaking reader... El Universal Lunes 28 de mayo de 2007 High ranking judge calls for inquiry Federal, state and municipal authorities committed grave violations against fundamental civil rights during the Oaxaca conflict that began in May 2006, ... [Continue reading this entry]

An Old Friend Visits

Sunday, May 27th, 2007
My friend Barbara and I hitch-hiked Europe the summer of 1965. Then I didn't see her for thirty years. Then I found her on google about ten years ago...living 30 minutes from my house in Oregon. She ... [Continue reading this entry]

Abastos Market

Friday, May 18th, 2007
DSC_0155.JPG Yesterday Sharon and I went shopping for furniture for her new digs when we came across this tired fruit vendor who had probably been up before sun-up. Sharon is moving from a third-floor bird's-nest apartment ... [Continue reading this entry]

URO Visits The Zocalo

Friday, May 18th, 2007
DSC_0171.JPG Last tuesday the teachers kicked off their usual June strike with a march to the Zocalo. It was pretty low key with teachers entering in small groups and with a few speeches and songs in ... [Continue reading this entry]

“Oaxacans Like To Work Bent Over”

Tuesday, May 15th, 2007
This is the title of a paper issued this month by Seth Holmes with an M.D. from the University of California at San Francisco, and a Ph.D. in cultural and medical anthropology from UCSF and U.C. Berkeley. His paper, "'Oaxacans ... [Continue reading this entry]

Writing From The Ground

Monday, May 14th, 2007
New York Times columnist, Nicholas Kristof (incidentally from my home state of Oregon) has written an excellent review of William T. Vollman's book entitled "Poor People" that reflects a deep understanding of the issues underlying poverty. From my 30 years ... [Continue reading this entry]

Comics…A New Way Of Thinking?

Sunday, May 13th, 2007
Have been thinking that I need a new way of thinking. Like comics. Not Donald Duck or the Road Runner although those have their virtues. In Salon.com I came across an interview of Alan Moore, who the author, ... [Continue reading this entry]

Worker’s Day May 1

Wednesday, May 2nd, 2007
International Workers Day is traditionally a big holiday in Mexico with workers getting the day off to celebrate. Oaxaca had a huge march...thousand walking to and out of the Zocalo. The APPO contingent showed up about noon...a few ... [Continue reading this entry]

Wages

Monday, April 30th, 2007
May Day is coming up. An op-ed piece was printed in the Oaxaca Noticias daily newspaper criticizing the employment practices of WalMart and VIPS. I and many expats here usually tip 20% to help make up for their ... [Continue reading this entry]

This Side Of The Border Problem

Friday, April 27th, 2007
Oaxaca is Mexico's second poorest state with many mountain villages nearly empty of working age men. But over half of the poco English speaking men I have talked to have said they learned the language by working on the East ... [Continue reading this entry]

Black In Mexico

Thursday, April 26th, 2007
Until 1650 there were more African slaves in Mexico than anywhere else in the Americas. Until 1810 there were more Africans living in Mexico than Spaniards. (From Bobby Vaughn's dissertation "Race and Nation: A Study of Blackness in Mexico" ... [Continue reading this entry]

Making Tejate

Tuesday, April 24th, 2007
Tejate is a rich frothy drink that is famous in Oaxaca. You get hooked on it. Labor intensive, it is made with criollo corn boiled in wood ash and ground and mixed with toasted and ground mamey seeds, ... [Continue reading this entry]

International Driving

Sunday, April 22nd, 2007
Don't know if it's just Oaxaca or maybe it's the whole of Mexico. However, my dentist says that drivers in Oaxaca are worse than in Mexico City! But in Xalapa they were ever so polite...big fines meted out ... [Continue reading this entry]

Arrazola & Zaachila

Friday, April 20th, 2007
Charly and I took the long way around to Arrazola about 10 miles south of Oaxaca City where copal wood Alebrijas are made...the most famous craft in Oaxaca. Most of the pieces are carved out of one piece of ... [Continue reading this entry]

God Help Oaxaca

Sunday, April 15th, 2007
On April 11, in a speech memorializing the 88th anniversary of the death of Mexican hero Emiliano Zapata, a leader of the teachers union, Pedro Matias affirmed that the month of May 2007 will bring a series of mobilizations which ... [Continue reading this entry]

Anniversary of Death Of Zapata Today

Tuesday, April 10th, 2007
Emiliano_Zapata.jpg Emiliano Zapata (August 8, 1879 – April 10, 1919) was born to Gabriel Zapata and Cleofas Salazar in the small central state of Morelos, in the village of Anenecuilco (modern-day Ayala municipality). He was of mixed ... [Continue reading this entry]

AP Correspondent Romero Fired But Damage Done

Friday, April 6th, 2007
Those of us who have been living here through the teacher strike have been yelling our heads off about the misreporting of Rebeca Romero on the Associated Press Wire Service that were picked up by local media throughout the United ... [Continue reading this entry]

Hail In Oaxaca!

Saturday, March 31st, 2007
It was hot as hell today...stayed home and worked on the video footage of a Tajate demonstration of Mica's mother yesterday. Then at 6pm this! Actually we got hail when I was here last June too... mexico32_019_2.jpg[Continue reading this entry]

Tranquilo Oaxaca?

Wednesday, March 28th, 2007
On Monday morning March 26, I went to my dentist appointment. The dentist was 45 minutes late. She explained there was a taxi strike and she had had to walk to work. The dust in this country is ... [Continue reading this entry]

Dual Pricing

Tuesday, March 27th, 2007
Found a hilarious travel article on Bootnall today about the luxury tax...or dual pricing for foreigners as it is called: The Luxury Tax - Asia, Europe, South America By: Adam Jeffries Schwartz The following is a guide to how the luxury tax is ... [Continue reading this entry]

Atenco Foreshadowed Oaxaca

Monday, March 26th, 2007
A brutal repression and massacre of resistors by federal and state police in the small city of Atenco, 15 miles south of Mexico City, in May of 2006, foreshadowed the repression that was to follow June through November 2006 in ... [Continue reading this entry]