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A Drink for the Springboks

Saturday, November 22nd, 2008

Day 237

Jordana and I slept in to about 9am this morning, it feels good to have a day where we don’t have to be up at 6am for a bus or be ready for a tour. We walked over to the Musgrave Centre with John and Hannah for breakfast at Mugg and Bean. Sitting in that restaurant with a familiar breakfast menu made me feel like I could have been in Toronto. Its a feeling we’ve had often here in South Africa, a country with such a striking divide between the 1st and 3rd worlds.

Tomorrow we are headed to the Drakensbeg Mountains, something that promises to be a nice change from Durban. We spent the day doing some planning and reading newspapers. Reading the news in Africa is essential for planning and a sure way to make you depressed. Let’s run through some stories today. As if things weren’t bad enough in neighbouring Zimbabwe now news of a cholera outbreak with potentially 1.4 million people affected. In Congo I still haven’t figure out who is fighting who even though its news here everyday. I do know that its very nasty and it seems nobody in the world really cares what’s going on there. Up the coast in Somalia pirates seem to be seizing ships daily. Arrrr, sorry it had to be said. Here in South Africa the ruling ANC (African National Congress) party has split and there seem to be divisions along ethnic lines. Which is unsettling since it sounds like a dangerous path. Besides that the future president, Jacob Zuma is in court over corruption charges. A few years ago he was acquitted of rape charges, but during the trial it was revealed the woman he had sex with was HIV positive. Zuma said he was safe because as a precaution against HIV he had taken a shower after intercourse. To think I thought Steven Harper was an idiot.

So when the newspapers read like that, and that’s only a small preview, what to do? Go to the pub, get a pint of Hansa and watch rugby. That’s exactly what Jordana and I did. Rugby is huge here and today South Africa is taking on England in England. We found a nice little pub on Florida St in Durban and grabbed a seat, most places we passed were already full. As the match began I tried to explain the rules of the game to Jordana. While she didn’t really get what was going on it was easy to get caught up in the excitement of the game. It also helps that South Africans love to drink and were a happy group as their Spingboks, name of the national rugby side, blew out the English side 44-6. An embarrassing loss at home for England. After the match we walked down the street for dinner and found some decent Thai food. Its always a good day when you can go out and spend a day as a local would, well a white local.

Shopping in Durbs

Friday, November 21st, 2008

Day 236

We arrived in Durban late last night and checked into the Hippo Hide hostel. A decent place who’s selling feature is the pool. Durban is a large city of 4 million on the coast that has a huge Indian population. Once upon a time it was the largest Indian city outside of India. We plan on spending 3 nights here, not to see any sights really but to go shopping, do laundry and figure out what the rest of our Africa itinerary. Since we are travelling overland the options are exactly plenty. Zimbabwe is out of the question and while Botswana is safe its expensive. We want to see Victoria Falls but also want to head up the coast through Mozambique. So many decisions.
The Hippo Hide is only a ten minute walk to the Musgrave Centre, a large shopping mall where we hoped to get most things completed. We are in Berea, an upscale area outside of the centre. Pretty much no hostels exist in the centre, which is not the safest place at night. Walking down the street here reminded me of San Salvador. High walls topped with barbed wire and the clicking of the electrified fences. Every home is a fortress.

We reached the shopping centre which was a large place and pretty much like any other mall around the world. We purchased a map of Africa, backed up our photos on cd and did some internet time. We found out that flying from Johannesburg to Victoria Falls would cost us $1000. Much to expensive for 3 days. Jordana looked around for some pants, clothing is very cheap here compared to home. Average is about $20 CAD for a pair of womens pants. Eventually we finished with shopping and went for some OK chinese food down the street. Then back to the hostel for some lazing by the pool and a cool dip. Finally we are having some hot weather here, the temperature was in the thirties today.

In the evening we met up with the Brits, John and Hannah. We walked to a nearby Indian restaurant for dinner. Durban being a very Indian city is famous for its curry. We had a spicy fish curry and some different but tasty koftas. It was spicy and tasty food. After dinner it was back to the hostel where I sat staring at our Africa map, dreaming of so many places that I’d love to see. Yet so many places that just aren’t possible to visit due to war or whatever issue. Africa will be much different than Latin America, where we just picked a place and went.

Culture Shock

Tuesday, November 18th, 2008
Day 233 As I peaked out our window I saw the rain falling. It made leaving this wonderful place a bit easier. Although not in the sense that the "road" out of here was now turned into a river ... [Continue reading this entry]

Woman Power

Monday, November 17th, 2008
Day 233 I thought about changing my breakfast order this morning to yogurt and fruit but the veggie sausage is just so good. We sat outside for breakfast in the cool morning air while we stared at the rollings hills ... [Continue reading this entry]

Beach’n Bulungula

Sunday, November 16th, 2008
Day 232 As much as there is to do here at Bulungula it is also a fantastic place to just kick back for a day of relaxation. With no cars, no electricity, no tv's and no crime and beautiful beaches ... [Continue reading this entry]

Clicking with the Herbalist

Saturday, November 15th, 2008
Day 231 One of the things Jordana and I, and countless other travellers search the world for is a traditional, local and authentic cultural experience. Its not an easy thing to come across. We tried and somewhat succeeded in ... [Continue reading this entry]

From Carpet to Dung…things are changing

Friday, November 14th, 2008
Day 230 Rain pelted against the window for most of the night, I wondered when this rain would finally end. We heard of flooding back down the coast towards Cape Town and road closures. So if there was a ... [Continue reading this entry]

How the Rest Live

Thursday, November 13th, 2008
Day 229 The main reason I wanted to spend 2 nights in Port Elizabeth or PE as its referred to locally, was to do a tour into the townships. There are tours into the townships in several other cities but ... [Continue reading this entry]

Enough Rain!

Wednesday, November 12th, 2008
Day 228 Well I didn't have much to write about yesterday because it rained all day. We woke up today hoping for better weather but before I even crawled out of bed I knew it wasn't meant to be. ... [Continue reading this entry]

Rainy Day

Tuesday, November 11th, 2008
Day 227 Peering out our window we had a fabulous view of the valley and the mountains in the distance. It was a beautiful place. Too bad the weather wasn't. Just as we were walking out of our ... [Continue reading this entry]