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Getting into Nature

Monday, November 10th, 2008

Day 226

We waited for our bus out of Swellendam and down the coast to Nature’s Valley. Nature’s Valley, sounds like a tourist brochure named the town. Either that or those bars from back home grow on the trees. Which would be a good thing. Our bus was on time and we departed the pretty town of Swellendam.

Most of the drive was boring highway driving until we reached the coast at Wilderness, yes that is actually the real name of the town. Its far from being Wilderness though. The town is filled with holiday homes, however the coast is beautiful. We past through the coastal towns of Knysna and Plettenberg Bay. Nice enough looking places, but pretty much generic looking coastal towns that filled with tourists in the December high season. I was glad we decided to skip them.

Soon we pulled off the N-2 highway to Nature’s Valley. The area was beautiful, green forest covering mountain sides. 20 minutes off the N-2 we reached “Wild Spirit Backpackers”. Jenny the friendly but a bit odd owner came out to meet us. This place was beautiful and remote. All on its own on the top of a valley overlooking the dense forest and mountains. We dropped our stuff in our slightly musty double room and sat down for dinner. Dinner was a big table with the other guests. We met Tim and Hilda from the Netherlands, and Jarrko and Tinna from Finland. While the atmosphere was good I can’t say the same about the food. It was small portions and not very good to be honest. Basic pasta with an odd sauce, it tasted like a bad backpacker meal. Not a goos start with the food and considering that there was no other restaurant around the food might be an issue here. Regardless we went to bed that night dreaming about the spectacular coastal hiking trails that were a short distance from here, the real reason we were in Nature’s Valley.

Horsing Around in Swellendam

Sunday, November 9th, 2008

Day 225

Jordana and I sat on the front veranda of the backpackers where we just finished our breakfast. Nobody was to be seen at 8am around here. We are waiting for our horseback trip with Stephanie, the owner of the backpackers and also owner of a bunch of horses. Eventually she showed up to drive us the short distance at the foot of the mountains where the horses were found. Even though the roughguide says this is the thing to do in town I was sceptical. Purely because it was quite expensive, 150 Rand per hour. We were only doing 1 hour.

We were joined by 2 South Africans who were on a weekend away from Cape Town. Stephanie saddled up the horses and Jordana climbed on “Dannyboy” and I rode “Ruben”. I liked the name Ruben for a horse, seemed powerful and in control. Dannyboy? I wasn’t so sure about that, I feared Jordana had just climbed on a drunken Irish horse. Stephanie led us up a hillside and into a beautiful pine forest. “You guys have ridden before, right?” Stephanie asked. “Yeah, plenty of times”, I responded. Really we have only ever ridden while travelling and this was probably my 6 time ever on a horse. However if she had seen the loco horse I rode in Colombia in action and seen how I commanded him then she would clearly have known I was more experienced than the average tourist. I think I just finished that thought when she took off and our horses followed her lead. These were some powerful horses, I was being bounced around pretty good as I tried to find a rythme with Ruben. I watched Jordana in front of me and it didn’t look like she was faring any better. Then we stopped, thank god because my back was killing me. Jordana’s saddle had come a bit loose, Stephanie tighten it and we were off. This time at a far more leisurely pace. The rest of the hour we had some great views of the town and mountains and wound our way in and out of the forest. We completed the ride and while it was really good I will still maintain it was overpriced.

After a shower we walked back to the museum and again had lunch at the Old Gaol restaurant. Being Sunday most things were closed in town. We tried to find internet but that was closed. We tried to figure a way to call home but also struck out with that. So we just walked around the town. Its quite a spread out place and still mostly a white town. Well at least in town there did not seem to be many blacks living there. After killing sometime walking we returned to the backpackers. Jordana read, I caught up on blogs and read about the rest of South Africa. Swellendam was a nice relaxing stop but like this entire region around Cape Town it can get a bit boring even though its beautiful. Don’t get me wrong Swellendam is a nice place and its been enjoyable but sometimes it feels a bit too “Leave it to Beaver” perfect. Which is quite an odd thing considering this is still Africa. In the morning we are catching a bus further down the coast to Nature’s Valley. It must be beautiful with a name like that.

Kayaking in Swellendam

Saturday, November 8th, 2008
Day 224 According to our South Africa Roughguide, "the thing to do in Swellendam is to go horseback riding". Horseback riding did sound great but was full today with a large group so we decided on kayaking. We ... [Continue reading this entry]

Solving the Bus Issue

Friday, November 7th, 2008
Day 223 So here we are in Hermanus and we have no way out. Remember when I spoke of the difficulty of getting around by public buses here? Well Hermanus doesn't have one public bus that serves the town. ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Winner Is…

Thursday, November 6th, 2008
Day 222 Jordana and I crawled out of bed thinking we were going to catch a 7am bus. The only problem was we had no idea where the bus actually left from. We were about to learn that South ... [Continue reading this entry]

Old School

Wednesday, November 5th, 2008
Day 221 So, what can I write about this day? Basically we had breakfast, climbed into the "Easy Rider Wine Tour" bus with 5 others, drove around to 4 wineries and get drunk. Really that would be the ... [Continue reading this entry]

A Helldrick of a Train Trip

Tuesday, November 4th, 2008
Day 220 We had gotten so comfortable at the B & B and loved Cape Town so much part of me was sad to leave. Although the desire to explore more of this country and continent quickly had me wanting ... [Continue reading this entry]

Setting the Table

Monday, November 3rd, 2008
Day 219 "Its good enough, were going!" I said as we peaked up at the mostly cloudy sky around table mountain. It was our last day and I was determined to get to the top of table mountain. We walked to ... [Continue reading this entry]

Holocaust in Cape Town

Sunday, November 2nd, 2008
Day 218 We've gotten quite comfortable here in Cape Town at St. Pauls B & B, so much that we decided to spend an extra night. Originally we planned on leaving tomorrow but I've talked Jordana into staying another day. ... [Continue reading this entry]

Erasing Lives

Saturday, November 1st, 2008
Day 217 Yesterday was an easy introduction to this very european feeling African city. Today we planned on visiting District Six, an area and now museum that would show us that looks aren't everything in Cape Town. We enjoyed another large ... [Continue reading this entry]