The Places in Between…
My back pronounced in working order by Dr. Pardis, I sauntered out into the Cebu night. Had dinner at El Gecko, owned by friend Mark, who’s now trying to sell the place (for about US$63,000 – interested?) and move back to the UK. El Gecko is a nice little place, and I like the randomness of it – you never know who’ll turn up and what will be discussed at the bar. But once in a while it’s a real downer, and tonight was that kind of night…a bunch of old bitter farts sitting around, nursing their San Miguels, comparing gripes. One old gringo was insulting the young bargirl and Filipinos in general, calling them incompetent and lazy. I thought about jumping in but decided it wasn’t my fight – I did make a note of the guy’s face and would tell Mark later on – he shouldn’t let scumbags like this in his place. As for the old loser, he should watch his tongue – you never know who might come looking for you when you talk like that.
Went to another bar, Sisters, a generally fun joint. The best thing about it now is that one of the floor manages is a clone of President Gloria Arroyo – uncanny. Everyone calls her Gloria…
Had a beer at Sisters, then walked over to a strip of bars, all owned by a Norwegian guy – the primary bar, Viking Bar, is named in honor of his homeland. The place is larded with bargirls and very cold, very cheap San Miguels. I went to Erik the Red’s, and sat at the bar while one of the girls told me all about how the guy who took her virginity had stopped in that very night and had given her the cold shoulder. I seem to have a talent (?) for eliciting these sorts of stories from strangers…and sometimes it serves me well in the business world as well.
There’s a Filipino politician named Jojo, who has reformist tendencies. His handlers, or perhaps a journalist, has nicknamed him Jojobama. Talk about riding coattails…
The next day an old girlfriend, Faith, came to visit. She splits her time between Bohol, where her mother and her daughter are, and Cebu, where she works. She had a couple days off and we spent the time together. She’s a super-sweet woman and a lot of fun – a bit clingy, though, and after just a few minutes I knew I’d be thrilled to be free and clear a couple days hence.
I find it hard to balance everything when I’ve got company, but I decided to try to keep a fairly normal schedule. I went running at the Cebu Sports Center, the outdoor track, and had Faith come along. As I wrote earlier, the center has all sorts of classes and I had hoped Faith would bring some workout clothes and join in…but she didn’t, and just sat in a chair and watched me circle the track 10 or so times. Sort of funny, but I was a bit bummed at her laziness.
We went to El Gecko that night for dinner – I had taken Faith there last night we were together, back in May 2008. Chatted with Mark and had a good dinner. Then we went out for some karaoke, first to K-1 in Crossroads Mall – but it was fully booked, as usual. So we tried a new place right near my hotel, and it was excellent. Good sound system, fully computerized, and the usual food and drink. I really do wish you could find these places in the West, they’re incredibly fun and make for a good change of pace from the usual sitting around and drinking.
Faith is a trained singer and has a brilliant voice. I tried my best to keep up, but mostly sat back and watched her belt out the tunes. Very Filipino, and a lot of fun. She’s trying to get a visa to go work in Korea as a singer – ugh. Good money, I suppose, but a nasty lifestyle – drunken Korean geeks pawing her every night, and perhaps worse. I might decide to try to ‘rescue’ her from that fate…
Friend Steve in Dumaguete texted me – his wife Tina was at her family’s place in Toledo, across Cebu Island. It was Sinulog fiesta time there, and Steve urged me to go see it. I hadn’t done much here in the way of fiestas, to my detriment, so asked Faith if she was interested, and she was. So we left Cebu City around 3 p.m. on Sunday and took a shared minivan (a la Central Asia and other places) to Toledo, a 90-minute ride. Got there and it was raining hard – torture. Little cities like Toledo have crappy sewage (read: none) so when it rains, you get little seas everywhere. There were marching bands and all sorts of celebrations going on, but it was very messy and less fun than it could have been.
Tina found us and we hung out for a while. Watched the bands and parades, went to a seaside café, Café Royale, and had a few beers. Tina and her two kids are meeting Steve in Dumaguete at the end of the month, our paths might cross again there for a bit.
Tina & Steve’s daughter Noosa had really grown since I’d last seen her, in May last year. Now she was talking and running around. Impressive.
Tina had to put the kids to bed, so Faith and I wandered back to the school grounds to watch the finale of the fiesta. Still raining a bit, but not too bad. The last few acts were fun and people were definitely into it. I should make a point of attending more of these events, I tend to avoid crowded affairs, but they can be huge fun.
Went to a seafood place called Ocean Fresh for dinner – Tina had recommended it. Nice food – the owner/manager was a bit pushy in recommending the most pricey items, and I think she wasn’t thrilled that Faith, provincial lass that she is, only ordered garlic rice (!). But I had ordered seafood soup for two, a plate of fish, and some vegetables, so we had lots of grub and also some wine. I don’t like pushy restaurant people – don’t they have any degree of self-awareness?
Tina called – she and her relatives were at a videoke place right across the street. Faith and I went over there and spent a very amusing few hours, drinking and singing with Tina and her clan. I contributed Barry Manilow’s ‘Somewhere Down the Road,’ and did well enough…but Faith again stole the show, often stepping in to accept the mic when others flubbed the song and couldn’t go on. I truly believe that videoke is the national sport here, although it gets lots of competition from cockfighting and various other forms of gambling.
It was now way too late to find a way back to Cebu City, so Tina took Faith and I over to a newish hotel for the night. Got a room, which was fine…except that the bed was sagging in the middle. And we had no drinking water…or condoms…or soap. Found some soap in the lobby, but had to wander out into the rain to get water and ‘rainjackets.’ Post-Sinulog, the streets were pretty crowded with drunk, celebratory young men. I definitely stood out, large and white. Managed to get some water, and find a 24-hour dispensary that sold ‘Pinoy-style’ condoms, i.e. small, tight and perhaps not leak-proof. But they were certainly cheap.
Wandered back to the hotel, avoiding throngs of young Pinoys who sometimes shouted to me in English. The usual chest-beating exercises…they wanted to provoke me and see what happened, but I wasn’t about to play that game. I just smiled, or turned my head, and plowed on, back to the hotel. It occurred to me that it wasn’t the safest night/time of night to be out doing transactions, but then again, I couldn’t very well have sent Faith out, could I? Or perhaps that would have made sense – at least she would have blended in far better than I managed to…
I sorely needed sleep by that point, but between Faith and the crappy bed, I didn’t get much. We woke up around 11 a.m., I was still exhausted. We needed to check out at noon, and I was keen to head back to Cebu and take care of a few things…and also drop off Faith. My sense that I’d be craving total freedom by this point was 100% accurate. We took a van back to the city, I sent her back to her place, while I returned to Casa Rosario to do a few things and prepare for a work-related call I’d have that night.
Checked email – saw that BootsnAll, my blog hosting site, published my West Bank story on their travel website. I had submitted it a couple weeks ago, and really had simply cut it out of my blog post with very little editing. They did some editing, mostly benign and related to look and feel, but also some annoying bits where they stuck in exclamation points to make it more assertive, but actually less accurate. Oh well. Here it is, check it out:
http://www.bootsnall.com/articles/09-01/upside-down-west-bank-palestine-israel-middle-east.html
It was simultaneously the start of Chinese New Year, Australia National Day, and India Republic Day. Lots of celebrating Aussies in town…didn’t see that many Indians…and the large hotels and Taoist Temples were presumably busy with the local Chinoys and visiting Chinese. Random.
Went for a run at the track. Had a couple work-related calls. Went out for a bite and a beer. At Lone Star Bar, the Aussie owner had laid out vegemite-and-cheese sandwiches. They weren’t all that bad…I’m in no way a fan of vegemite, but I’ve eaten much worse.
Went back to Erik the Red Bar – ran into Mark from El Gecko there. Small city, really.
Next morning, got up, checked out, and caught a bus to Dumaguete, my Filipino home away from home. The Cebu South Bus Terminal is a disorganized, chaotic place with no formal ticket window or such – you just find your bus and pay on board. Works fine. The bus heads across the island, gets on a ferry to Negros Island, and continues on to Dumaguete. Five hours, pretty smooth. At the start of the trip, I was exchanging smiles with a funny middle-aged Filipina who was transporting a rooster in a wooden box. Not sure what she was smiling about…perhaps she sensed that I thought carrying a rooster in a box might be an absurd concept. But I’ve seen much worse…
The ride was pleasant, bus wasn’t full and the views of the provinces were stunning. And the ferry ride was also terrific – the views across to Negros are post-card perfect, like many RP islands Negros is volcanic and mountainous. And super-lush, they get lots of rain here.
Got to Dumaguete, and checked in Plaza Maria Luisa, the place where my computer was ruined by water back in May 2007. I’d been back to Dumaguete several times since, but had avoided this place and had instead stayed with Steve in Dauin. But Steve’s house was being renovated and he also had some tenants there, so I stayed in town – no problem, I like being in the city. And I decided not to hold a grudge any longer against the hotel, and to give it another chance. Of course, I’d not be storing anything with them, just renting a room for 3 nights…
Most of the same staff was still there – I’d kind of hoped for a fresh slate of people, but no. I’d called and made a booking, so they were expecting me. It was a bit awkward, but not too bad. Last time I’d seen these folks, we’d had a tense time – they’d destroyed my computer (accidentally, of course) and I had been angry. Anyway, that was almost two years ago, and we all seemed able to just put on a light smile and forget about it.
The hotel was about the same, good enough for a few nights. One of these years I should try another place, but this hotel has a great location and the price is right.
Went for a walk. Read a bit. Went for a run along the beautiful seaside boulevard. Met Steve, who’d checked into the hotel, in the lobby, and we walked to Mike’s diveshop to track him down. He was there, we sat and caught up over beers. Told them about my travels over the past 9-10 months. Mike asked me a good question, which was where in the world could I do what I was doing now, that is sitting with some friends on the waterfront having a few beers? Not that many places, to be honest – I named a few, in Australia, in California, in Spain. Of course, I travel for a range of experiences, not just to sit with friends on the seaside drinking – but still, his question was a good one, and I think aimed at getting me to spend more time in Dumaguete. Mike’s a good guy – gruff and cranky at times, but he’s very bright and has a good heart. And every time I come to Dumaguete, I grow a bit more attached to the place…
Hit a few bars with Steve that night. Steve doesn’t drink (any more), but he’s still a fun guy to sit and talk to. Went to Garaje, a college bar that doesn’t lack for hotties. Steve’s married but is quite happy to test his eyesight on the local talent, as am I.
Went diving with Steve at his place the next day. We hung out for the entire day, in typical Steve fashion packed with errands and transactions. Didn’t actually get to the diving till nearly 1 p.m…before then, he was buying a raft of TVs and laptops over the phone and having them shipped over here, supervising the building of his guesthouse, which is really coming along, and going through his inventory of dive equipment. Steve’s happiest when he’s busiest, unlike me – he doesn’t seem to read much, he’s just someone who does things all day long.
Good dive – saw a giant turtle eating behind a coral escarpment, and a plain of little moray eels who went back down their holes when we approached. A lot like the Eel Garden dive spot in Dahab, Egypt – I hadn’t seen something like this in the Philippines before. And it’s mere meters from the beach in front of Steve’s hacienda…
Steve’s guesthouse – was supposed to have been completed last summer, but it’s still in process. Here it is, check out the equine motifs on the thatched roof – nice touch:
He already rented out the 3 apartments for an entire year, and got the cash up-front. Helpful for him, as he’s lost a shitload in the markets. The rents won’t be a huge amount of cash, but every little bit helps these days. Cash is king, emperor, and god in 2009…
Two of Steve’s helpers, who are married, are leaving soon. The woman sort of lost it after giving birth a few months ago, and has actually attacked other helpers – seems she thinks her hubbie is fooling around with them. Zero proof of that – I think it’s just post-partum depression or the like. She was so timid and quiet when I met her last year – hard to imagine her flipping her lid. Anyway, Steve’s got a good heart – he paid for the birth of their child, and he’s giving them a chunk of change as a going-away gift. Not many bosses as nice as Steve, many/most of the people who have helpers treat them like crap. Westerners tend to be better than locals, or other Asians, but you hear stories about nearly everyone…
After diving Steve had a call, had to send some emails, and we finally went to Bahura Resort and had lunch at 3 p.m. Steve gave the diveshop there some stuff to repair. Lunch was pretty good…afterward I was completely fried. I wanted nothing more than to return to the city and snooze for a while – my throat was sore and during the dive I’d had trouble equalizing. Seemed that I was coming down with something, and that I shouldn’t dive any more this week.
Steve got a call from his Japanese buddy, Naga, so we went to Naga’s place. Naga wanted to see if Steve was interested in buying a vacant lot next to Naga’s little house, and perhaps Naga’s house too – then he could combine the properties. But Steve’s got enough real estate, and not much cash these days (get in line), so he declined. One thing I don’t love about Dumaguete is that all the expats here seem to be infatuated with property – they can sit for hours and discuss transactions, units, etc. So boring, and materialistic – you never hear anyone talking about a good book they read, or about politics, etc.
Finally got back to the city and slept a bit. Then tried to exercise, but my sore throat and general level of exhaustion torpedoed that. Between Steve and Mike I always feel a bit busy and under the gun while here…perhaps that’s why I only stay for a few days, then retreat to Cebu where I can hide out more easily.
Stopped in Coco Amigos, had a beer and listened to the band for a while. This is the place where I got up and watched the most recent World Cup (2006) at 3 a.m. I clearly recall Zidane’s head-butt around 4:30 a.m. or so…
Met up with the boys at the diveshop at 10 p.m. Had a few beers, then Steve and I went to check out Reggae Night at Hayahay – which was pretty weak, for some reason. So we went to old standby Why Not Disco, where we blended right into the odd mix of horny expats and drunk locals. This place is truly classic – a little slice of Filipino mayhem right on the Dumaguete boulevard. Steve didn’t stay long – he doesn’t drink, and is married, so the two primary reasons for being at the disco are null. I stayed, for precisely the opposite reasons. And wound up meeting a nice young lass who agreed to hang out with me the rest of the evening – such fantastic iniquity here.
Woke up today, sore throat not any better – not surprising, given my hedonistic lifestyle lately. Mike had recommended an elderly Filipino doc named Napoleon Oracion at Holy Child Hospital – how could I not go see the guy? Went over there and saw him – I’ve got a minor throat infection and he prescribed an antibiotic for a few days. No big deal. In and out, and I already have the right kind of medicine from my most recent India trip, when I stocked up on various meds. I should be right in a few days, although no diving trip to Apo Island for me today. Oh well – will rest and try to behave myself – not an easy proposition in this country. Perhaps I should get me to a nunnery. Or something like that.
Will head back to Cebu for Friday night, then go to the little Luzon seaside town of Donsol over the weekend to snorkel with whale sharks. It’s apparently a transcendent experience, one that I’ve wanted to try for years now. I’ll tell you all about it next week. Over and out.
Tags: 1, Travel
mbsloney
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