Wanderlust Heaven!

Back to work after a nice week off in the Philippine islands.  As I returned to the fold I was a bit more contemplative than usual…my calling it off with Christine had meant that one of the last vestiges (I’d prefer not to call it a “loose end,” that’s a bit crass) of my sabbatical was gone.  She and I had met just before I returned to work, and whenever I spoke with her I had a quick flashback to those carefree days.  At the same time, I was happy to have resolution and one less “project” to manage.  I swear, as I get older, I could probably do just fine as a prison inmate, surrounded by books – as long as it was in a Madoff-like prison, of course.  Rikers Island – no way.

My first day back, I sat in on some qualitative market research interviews with physicians – the first time I’d had the pleasure in many years.  They do the interviews in a research facility, with one-way mirrors, so you can sit back and munch on bon-bons while the show’s in progress.  Useful data from these interviews, but I can’t sit through more than 2-3, then I get stir crazy.

Left the facility.  It was about 5:30 p.m., and I wanted to get in a run before my 9 p.m. call.  Hot as hell out…impossible to get a taxi.  Shanghai is awful in this regard, there aren’t enough taxis and during rush hour you’re pretty much screwed.  I’m starting to look into scooter options.  Anyway, after a futile half hour of looking for a taxi, I gave in and hopped on a moto-taxi…I’ve ridden these things without compunction in Vietnam, Thailand, etc., but never while wearing work clothes and carrying a valise.  Managed to get aboard and off we went – the driver was a typical Chinese maniac and we went through some ill-advised passages.  But I got home and it was very cheap.  Not the ideal ride, but I suspect that I’ll need to do more of these unless my transport picture changes.

Went for a good run.  My feet are a bit sore these days, I think I’ve got a minor (for now) case of plantar faschitis.  Need to get some new shoes, and probably ice down my feet after running.  Or just join a gym, and either not run (bike instead), or run on a treadmill.  I’d really be devastated to have to give up running, I’ve been doing it since I was 16 years old and it’s the linchpin of my fitness plan.  I practice a bit of yoga and do some other routines, but nothing beats running.

Ate a sandwich, then did the call.  Afterward, plowed through more of Paul Theroux’s “The Great Railway Bazaar.”  More on this shortly.  I’m getting a bit boring, I mostly sit around reading at night.  Not a great local pub around here, as far as I can tell…which is probably a good thing, it keeps me honest (and less paunchy).

I’ve been following the US healthcare debate online.  Read about guys who are showing up at Obama’s town hall meetings with guns.  Charming.  We look deeply sophisticated in front of the rest of the world when our redneck citizens carry shotguns to the President’s meetings.  And I loved hearing about the guy who had a sign reading “Keep the government away from my Medicare!”  That program, of course, is administered by said government.  It’s pathetic how ill-informed most Americans are…and the damage being done is severe.  It’s already nearly impossible to have a meaningful, open debate on the right level of taxation (which is of course linked to the right level/quality of services), on bearing arms (by no means an open and shut case, if you read the 2^nd Amendment – and certainly a scary prospect in general, considering the mental state of many gringos), and on the right level of government involvement in the economy (which, of course, equals “Socialism” – ha).  So guess what?  Our 25^th-ranked healthcare system won’t be getting much better anytime soon.  Nothing to celebrate, that’s for sure.

The weather here has been grim – over 35 degrees Celsius most days, humid as hell, and rains every afternoon/evening.  Which makes getting a taxi all the harder.  That said, I haven’t had too many late nights this time round…I’m managing to get home by around 7:30, go for a run, and eat before midnight.  That all may change if we get even busier, but for now I’m counting my blessings.

Read that the journalist Robert Novak died.  He was the guy who did the story on Valerie Plame and outed her as a CIA agent.  Of course, the real “outer” was Dick Cheney, who managed to slime his way out of the investigation; his chief of staff, Scooter Libby took the hit.  Even W. was smart enough not to expunge the conviction from Libby’s record – although he did commute the prison sentence.  Cheney was lobbying Bush to erase the conviction right up until their final day in office, but W. seems to have figured out that Libby and Cheney were deep in the shit on this one and deserved what they got.  The ludicrous bit is that Cheney’s still out there, mouthing off, whining about Obama…his reputation is in shambles and will only get worse as more’s made public about the tortures and unconstitutional activities over the past years.  Bye bye Dickie boy…

Took a taxi to the office a few days after getting back from the RP.  Saw a laborer on the street shoveling sand on the sidewalk.  It must have been 38 degrees C outside – this, friends, is why a college degree is so important.  Not that this fellow was complaining – if he wasn’t doing this, he’d probably be shoveling manure onto fields in Sichuan Province…

Had a call the next day with a former colleague who now heads strategy for a big pharma distributor.  The call went well, but the next steps looked to be daunting.  He had an Executive Team Meeting in a week and a half, and we had potentially committed to a sizeable bit of support for the meeting.  I wasn’t keen for a huge fire drill…we agreed to talk on Monday to decide the gameplan.  Sort of made my weekend a bit less enjoyable, with this hanging over my head.  I can take a certain amount of ambiguity and uncertainty, but not an endless quantity…

Had dinner with another former colleague that night, at a very nice Italian place near the Portman Ritz Hotel in Shanghai Center.  He now heads the local subsidiary of a major pharmaco.  Hadn’t seen him in 10 years, since we were on a case together in Tokyo.  He managed to escape from this case, which was the most brutal I ever worked on, and my last recall of him was saying goodbye to me in the lobby of the Westin Ebisu in Tokyo, and leaving me to deal with an annoying client.  Anyway, it was great seeing him again after all this time.  We traded lots of war stories and talked about pharma in China – which is changing by the minute and presenting interesting opportunities.  Might be a chance for us to work together before long.

Had a 9 p.m. call that night, Friday night – not something I enjoy.  The weekend should start earlier than that.  Did the call, then went out for a couple drinks, but I was fried from the week and didn’t last too long.

On Saturday I did my slew of errands – haircut (the local barbershop loves me, they all crowd around when I go in there), did some food shopping, read the newspaper and, of course, some work slides, and went for a run.  Noticed that Ramadan started today – last Ramadan I was in Turkey and the Middle East, that was an intense experience.  Not quite the same in Shanghai, although there are Muslims here and at least one mosque out in Pudong, if not more.

I stayed in that night – watched a movie and did some reading.  And when Sunday rolled around, I was just as lazy.  Had lunch at a nearby joint called Amazing Cantonese…read…watched The Godfather, as brilliant as ever…took a long nap.  Got up and switched on the living room light switch, there was a loud pop and the sound of breaking glass.  Ugh.  I’d had a couple aircon units on, and must have blown a fuse.  Went out in the hallway, turned the master switch to my flat on…nothing.  I eventually called my assistant, and went down to the complex’s guardhouse, where I handed a guard the phone and she told him what had happened.  They got a technician, who promptly came up and opened a wall panel I’d never seen before.  He switched on all the switches behind it, and everything came on.  Coolio.  I felt like a dumb lao wai (foreigner), but didn’t really care.  At least I’d get to sleep with aircon and not sweat the entire night.

Spent a half hour sweeping and vaccuming the broken light bulb.  First time I’d used a vacuum (or broom) in at least 4 years.  I’m really becoming domesticated these days…

Didn’t sleep well that night.  Was it the nap?  The electrical blowout?  Who knows.  I woke up cranky, and my stomach hurt…I’d tried some random things at Amazing Cantonese, and apparently they weren’t that amazing.  Nothing worse than a bad Monday morning.  I could only look forward to the rains…

Long day at work.  Of course.  I came home cranky, with diarrhea.  And it was only Monday night…

Woke up on Tuesday with my stomach still aching, and I still had the runs.  I don’t think I’ve ever called in sick to work, and I wasn’t about to start.  Went it, and after a couple hours I started to feel better.  I would not say that work is the best antidote for these sorts of illness (sex is much preferred), but I wasn’t complaining.  Had a productive day at work.  Still no word from my former colleague at the drug distributor about the meeting support, and time was slipping away.  Still, I was kind of happy I’d had the 2 days to recover without having to run a work fire drill.

Had a call that night with some senior colleagues.  The last time I’d done a work call with them was 4-5 years ago.  Just like old times.

Flew to Beijing the next morning.  Heavy morning traffic, I feared I’d left home too late, but then things cleared up and I got to Honqiao Airport 50 minutes before the flight – all clear.  My taxi intercom was making a “ping” sound much like that made by Lotus Notes when an email arrives – somewhat unsettling.  There is truly no escape from email.

Got into Beijing, and promptly had an insane day.  Rushed to the office, cranked out a short slide deck that had to get done ASAP.  On my flight I’d cranked out another document for my evening meeting.  Went to some client meetings that took the rest of the day.  Then went to “Full Link Plaza” to meet a former client for a coffee, he’d moved companies and was now the General Manager of China for a big Japanese pharmaco.  We met at a Starbucks – which was full of stunning women, I really must make a note to go back there soon.  My friend soon arrived, with a rather fetching new colleague in tow.  We had a fun chat about the China situation, and about the past – it felt like a Friday afternoon after all I’d been through that week and day…by rights I should have been able to declare it a Friday and take 2 days off afterward.

Took it easy that night.  Had a client call the next morning that didn’t go that well, the clients were French, and were using speakerphone, so it was difficult to understand what they were saying.  I’m much better face-to-face, but that wasn’t an option here so had to struggle through.  Sort of annoying.

Headed to the airport to fly back to Shanghai.  Called newish potential girlfriend N. in Bangkok – I was heading through Bangkok that weekend en route to a client meeting in Singapore.  Got her on the phone, was nice to hear her voice – I like the way she (sort of) speaks English.  We made a date for Saturday night – I was really looking forward to that.

I passed out on the flight – so weary from being ill and from the insane rush of the week.  I hope that 1) the weather improves soon, and 2) things get somewhat more calm at work.

Friday morning – did a training session for some of the younger consultants, we’ve cut back on training this year due to the economic situation.  But the need is there, and I’m trying to do my part to ensure that at least some training happens and that morale doesn’t deteriorate.

Read somewhere that China has over 600 leprosy rehab centers.  Those must be absolutely charming…

Flew to Bangkok – smooth ride.  At Immigration, I had to ask the agent not to stamp a blank page – he was poised to do that and I cringed, I only have a few blanks left and am already started to worry about replacing my passport.

Checked into Starry Place, an apartment building on Soi Rangnaam.  Friend Bob used to stay here, then he got sick of it and moved to VP Tower, where I’ve also stayed recently.  But I wanted a change of pace and Starry did the trick.  Hadn’t stayed there in a couple years, but they seemed to remember me, in that careless Thai way of theirs…

Went out for a couple drinks that night.  Bob was in the States so I was pretty much on my own.  Anyway, no shortage of things to do in the City of Lights/Life/Wild Times so boredom was never a fear.

On Saturday I took care of some pressing matters.  Got a couple vaccines at Bumrungrad Hospital – I love that place.  You go in, tell them what you want, and you’re out in 30-45 minutes, signed sealed and delivered.  And the cost is half or less of what it would be in the West.

Went to Central World Mall, bought a new pair of New Balance running shoes.  My heels have been sore and I’m hoping that new shoes will take care of this, but imagine I might need to make some other changes.  Went to glitzy Siam Paragon Mall and bought two more pairs of shoes – black wingtips (Thai made – let’s see how those go) and brown Doc Martens, with a huge sole.  Take that, plantar faschitis!

I don’t think I’ve ever bought 3 pairs of shoes in a single day – I basically turned over my entire footwear collection except for my Tevas.  Pretty random.

Took a wonderful nap.  Went for a run in the nearby park, the 6 p.m. calisthenics session was just letting out.  I often avoid this and run later when in town, but there were some fine sights leaving the park and I didn’t regret starting when I did.

Met N. in the lobby of the Intercontinental Hotel.  Took a taxi to Water Bar, where we had a few drinks, listened to music, and ate some great local food.  I am quite fond of N. – she’s very sweet and has a killer smile.  And she’s fun to talk with.  After Water Bar, we went to Saxophone, where we talked and listened to the live band for a couple more hours.  Nice kiss goodnight, and I put her in a taxi.  Fun date – I’m looking forward to seeing her again.  Not the least bit annoying – at least not yet!  I think this was my first date since I’d gone out for Syrian food with Lydia in Tashkent last summer.  Syrian food with Lydia in Tashkent…Thai food with N. in Bangkok…you make the call.

Slept late on Sunday, the curtains at Starry Place are pretty solid/thick and the sun doesn’t intrude too much.  Got up and went out for some street food.  Then I checked out and did some reading for work, the meeting with my former colleague and his associates loomed and I had to get my act together.  The assignment was more concise than originally planned, but it was still a challenge for me.

Flew to Singapore.  Landed, checked into the Conrad Hotel – yet another terrific hotel in this city.  Checked email – the client had postponed our meeting.  Ugh.  You’ve gotta to kidding me.  Well, I was already in Sing, and had dinner plans with friends Monday night, so I’d just work in our office on Monday and focus on the distribution meeting prep.  I got that document in decent shape by evening, and then caught a cab to my friends’ place in a residential section (felt almost suburban).  Hadn’t seen Angie in more than 3 years, I’d seen Nigel in Mumbai a few months earlier.  They live in perhaps the most stunning spread of any friends of mine – a beautiful Bali-style two-story house, with a separate kitchen/maid quarters, and at least a couple acres with lawn, pool, and trees.  To die for.  Had a very fun time catching up with them, they’re doing well and enjoying the “permanent expat” lifestyle in Sing.  Good for them.   We parted around 1 a.m., full of beer, beef, and red wine.

Woke up the next morning with a gruesome headache, and had a 7:30 a.m. internal call regarding my distribution meeting.  Got some very helpful ideas from my colleagues, so was happy I’d dragged my ass out of bed for the call.  Went into the office after checking out of the hotel – worked a bit more on the meeting document, which I’d share with my former colleague the next day in Hong Kong, in advance of the actual full team meeting.  Things were coming into place and my anxiety level was slowly diminishing.

Went to the airport.  Singapore is the Asian Switzerland, never any trouble getting a cab, even during rush hour – and the airport is never more than 30 minutes away.  And Changi Airport is like a world-class shopping mall.

Got on the flight.  A dude put his suitcase in the overheard compartment and I caught a brutal whiff of his underarm pong.  Many Asians don’t bother with deodorant, here was a real exemplar.  I almost passed out.  Otherwise, the flight to Hong Kong was smooth.

Landed in HKG, headed into the city, and checked into the Luk Kwok Hotel.  Went out for a couple beers in Wanchai, just for old times’ sake.  Chatted with a cute Filipina, but decided not to get into any further trouble, it was only midweek and I still had a lot to plow through – I needed a clear head.

Read emails – ugh.  The client meeting was pushed back to next Tuesday.  I’d still meet my former colleague the next day and show him my discussion document, but would probably have to return to HKG again in a few days’ time.  Not a terrible situation, I love HKG…but things were already getting backed up.

Read about the fashion designed Anand Jon getting sentenced to 59 years in prison for rape.  I recalled having gone to a fashion show in Goa a few years ago, his sister, also a famous designed, kicked off the affair and urged us all to ‘get sloshed.’  Evidently “good times” run in this family…

Got up on Wednesday morning, checked email before going to see my friend.  Got a disturbing email from university buddy Paul, his high school buddy Brad, whom I’d met and had fun with on many occasions, had died in NYC from alcohol abuse.  Jeez.  He’d always had problems with the bottle, but he went back to b-school a while ago and then went into finance/accounting in NYC, and we thought he’d turned things around.  What a loss, he was an incredible lively, music-loving (he played sax with unbelievable emotion) bon vivant, and I was floored.  I felt a bit off the rest of the day.

Got a weird email from the former manager of the superb Malabar House Hotel in Fort Cochin, India, where I’d stayed many years ago.  Francis, the manager, was opening his own inn, Tissa’s, and wanted to let me know that.  Francis had no idea I’d ever left Monitor – I must have given him my card when I was there, around 2002 I think.  So he’s the only person from my first go-around at Monitor who went ahead and emailed me during round 2 without knowing about my sabbatical – to Francis, it’s like I never had one.  Sort of funny, if you think about it…

Went and saw my friend, and showed him my document, which he quite liked.  We wound up spending 2 hours talking.  Then went  back to my room, had an internal call, took a nap, and went for a run.  Solid day.  Had dinner at my old favorite, Shanghai 369, just down the street.  Noodle soup and steamed jiaozu (dumplings) – perfect fare.

Got up on Thursday, decided to inhale some McD’s breakfast before starting my day.  Plowed through emails, nothing too shocking this morning.  Then went to the airport to fly back to Shanghai.  I reflected on the past week – I’d spent time in China, Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong, and was now returning to China.  Solid week of travel.

Read in the paper that the former Attorney General of Ontario, Canada, who was known for campaigning for tough traffic laws, had killed a bike courier.  Apparently they’d had a minor scrape, the courier grabbed onto the car door, and the former AG had stepped on the gas and deliberately swerved towards trees and mailboxes, eventually knocking the guy off and killing him.  Crikey, what a world!

Got to Shanghai, cleared Immigation and got a taxi.  It was 5:30 p.m., traffic looked to be bad, so I pulled out my iPod and listened to music for the entire 90 minute ride.  Queen’s “Under Pressure,” and a slew of Steely Dan songs (“Here at the Western World,” “Any Major Dude”) were what I listened to.  I noticed that my taxi was a VW Santana, most appropriate…

The next day was Friday, always a bad day for getting cabs.  Waiting for a half hour despite getting an early start.  Almost went back home to sit out rush hour, but eventually a taxi pulled over.  Went to the office, where I met my new assistant, Lynn – the last and only time I’d met her, we interviewed in a cab while I was heading to the airport.  I was happy she was joining us, our current assistant Stella is way too busy.

We all went out for lunch, something that doesn’t happen often enough.  Another new hire was Jasper, who had been with us, then went to b-school.  So the lunch was really to welcome he and Lynn.  Went to nearby Citizen resto, which has great Sichuanese cuisine.

Got a call from an old friend/former client, who also works in Shanghai.  His pharmaco is looking for some support and he might have us do the work.  That would be terrific – I’d like to sell more work, let’s see where this goes.  Could unfold fairly quickly, like nearly everything in this biz…

Called N. in Bangkok, it was her birthday.  She was going out for dinner with her roommate…I sighed, my own plans that night were decidedly less appealing.

Finished the Theroux book before heading out.  Very good book all round – he spent time on the Trans-Sib, and I identified closely with his experiences.  Desolation but also revelation.  The only issue with this book is that I was so busy with work, it took me a month (or more) to finish it, and at times I’d nearly lose the storyline.  This is the sort of book you should plow through in 3-4 days, then you’d get the true sense of the adventure Theroux took.  I’ve gotta get more of his books, he’s my sort of travel writer, cynical but also open to learning.

I realized that I’ve now been back at work for 6 months.  Ye gods…

Went out that night and checked out a few nightspots.  Also called Paul to discuss friend Brad…we were both beside ourselves with sadness over losing him.  Not much more to say than that.  There are so many things in life that it’s hard to know what’s going on sometimes…

Got an email from friends Rory and Anne, whom I’d met in Ulaan Bataar on a Hash Run.  They’re back in Shanghai now, after summering at their farmhouse in Bulgaria.  Looking forward to seeing them again, they’re always a lot of fun.  And I really do need to start doing the Hash here, I’ve been very lazy (or away) on Sundays…

Yesterday, Saturday, I sat around and watched Godfather 2, quite good for a sequel.  Did some reading, then went out for a kip.  Almost ducked into Kaiba, a new Belgian beer bar near my flat, but it looked dead so took a cab into the city center.  Went to the Bulldog, a cool pub with some rather stunning wait staff.  And they have non-stop 2-for-1 drink deals, so essentially all drinks are 50% off.  Granted they inflate the price first, but it still works out well.

Tried to recall the Japanese word for chopsticks, and could not (the beer might have played a role here).  I know the Mandarin word, kwai tze (“fast little fellows”).  I think Mandarin is slowly crowding out my Japanese, I probably only have capacity for one demanding Asian language.  Oh well.

Slept late today, Sunday.  Had lunch at my favorite little place, Shen Ya, near the Crowne Plaza.  Came back, read some work slides, practiced guitar (finally), and went for a long run at the Jiaotong University track.  Now I’m finishing this 8-page slog posting, and I might just return to the Bulldog for a burger (they look stupendous), a beer, and some eye candy.  It’s Sunday night, must squeeze a bit more out of the weekend.  Thanks for being patient with this posting, it’s been 3 weeks…believe me, it bothers me even more, I cringe knowing how much material I save and must cover after that length of time.  Fare thee well, gentle readers.  Over and out.

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