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Ever North up the Mekong: Final Days in Cambodia

Wednesday, January 12th, 2005

After my evening in the town of Kratie, I was well rested and ready to hit the road again. Or rather, the water, as I my route headed still further up the Mekong river to the town of Stung Treng in the far north of Cambodia.

I’d been a bit nervous with my first boat trip up this river, and had decided to sit inside the boat, but this time I made straight for the roof, where I was joined by all of the other foreigners making the trip.

The boat ride was wonderfully smooth. As the Mekong slid by, I read, stared at the banks, laid in the sun and wind and spent a lot of time grinning at the wonderfulness of just BEING THERE.

As the boat sped on up the river, (40 or 50km/h perhaps) the settlements on either side changed from continuous houses to occaisional villages to single shacks dotted along the banks. In the river itself, concrete markers appeared, rising out of the water to mark the edges of the safe shipping channel. There were times that the markers led us upstream, then downstream for a kilometre or so then back north up the river, making a sort of N shape. This made for a longer (though more fun) ride in the afternoon sun.

Finally a town of some size appeared, heralded by a water tower and a telecommunications tower (and some people say they’re eyesores…)

The boat pulled up alongside the pier, and I hopped off with my pack. I was in Stung Treng, last stop north for public transit in Cambodia.
[read on]

The Central Cambodian Mekong: Phnom Penh, Kompong Cham and Kratie

Thursday, December 30th, 2004

After arriving back in Phnom Penh, I took a quick look at the television before heading out for dinner and was astonished by what I saw. I’d been up in the hills near Kampot for the past few days and had entirely missed the news of the tsunamis that had devastated much of southeast and south Asia. Thankfully Cambodia didn’t receive any of them, but I still had to phone my mother and father and let them know I was okay, both because I wasn’t certain that people were aware of Cambodia’s safety and because they might have worried about my having changed travel plans.

It was my first experience with an internet phone, and while it functioned well enough, they still aren’t really that well suited to normal human (or at least Llew) patterns of conversation.

After dinner at a food stall near my street (I think this was probably my first real southeast Asian street meal [as opposed to snack]) I headed back to my guesthouse to bed.
[read on]

Christmas on the Coast, Kampot and Surrounds

Tuesday, December 28th, 2004
The trip to Kampot was interesting from the start. Leaving my guesthouse at 10:00 meant that I would need to take a mini-bus instead of an actual bus-bus. The moto (motorcycle taxi) to the minibus station was an ... [Continue reading this entry]

Phnom Penh, Cambodia’s Capital

Thursday, December 23rd, 2004
I feel like I really ought to be able to describe the countryside we passed through on the bus trip from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh, but sadly about all I can say is that ... [Continue reading this entry]

Siem Reap and Angkor Wat

Saturday, December 18th, 2004
We arrived at Siem Reap International airport relaxed and well fed. I'd spent much of the flight talking with the Englishwoman beside me about other parts of southeast Asia and was more than ready to make my way into ... [Continue reading this entry]