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Archive for April, 2005

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Rawlapindi, Islamabad and My Run In With The Law

Monday, April 25th, 2005

The bus trip from Peshawar to Rawalpindi was generally unexciting. One brief point of interest was the appearance of Akbar’s fort, a 16th century construction that dominates the valley it sits overtop. Indeed, save for the fort, it was made pretty much entirely on the motorway through lightly rolling countryside, and just about as novel as a trip down the 401 back at home.

But there was no mistaking Rawalpindi for London, Ontario (or Toronto, for that matter.) The market area where we arrived was furiously busy. With the help of a friendly fellow from the bus (who spoke barely any English) and a shopkeeper (whose aid he enlisted) I got an autorickshaw to the part of town where I was headed. I was surprised to discvoer when we stopped for fuel that the vehicle ran on compressed natural gas, in a cylinder identical to those used in barbecues back in Canada.

Finding my guesthouse took a while of wandering around the busy streets of ‘Pindi (as Rawalpindi is commonly known), first since the streets were never named, and second because the place had moved, but eventually I got there.

I checked in (to the unsurpsrisingly empty dormitory, meaning that I got a larger room for a smaller price than if I’d taken a single) and went up on the roof to survey the city.

While there, I also tried on my Shalwar Kameez, and found it to be perhaps the most comfortable clothing I’d ever worn. My hosts in Peshawar had mentioned a few times that with my beard and tan, I could pass for a Pathan (a group of Pakistanis from the west of the country that generally have pale skin) and with the Shalwar Kameez on, the effect was complete.

Ready for a wander about town, I headed out to do some sightseeing.
[read on]

The Best Possible Start in Pakistan: New Friends in Peshawar

Friday, April 15th, 2005

Pakistan has something of a bad reputation at the moment. It is an Islamic Republic, though at the time of my visit it was under military rule. In addition to these factors (which many westerners would find disturbing enough) is the fact that several foreigners have been kidnapped and ransomed or killed in the southern city of Karachi.

Despite all of this, my research had led me to the conclusion that it WOULD be safe to visit, so long as I knew where I was going. The Islamic fundamentalist terrorists were confined to the southern parts of the country, and while there were many areas of the north prone to banditry and outside government control, the extents of these were well known and avoiding them wouldn’t be a problem.

So, I was all set, and very excited to visit the culturally fascinating (in addition to the Islamic nature of the state, Pakistan has long been the meeting point of south and central Asia), topographically spectacular (12 of the worlds top 30 peaks, and 5 of the 14 8000m summits are in northern Pakistan) and extraordinarily welcoming (from what I’d heard) country.

I woke up and headed down the street towards the bus park. It promised to be a bit of a hike, but 1/2 way there, I heard a bus conductor shouting “Attari! Attari!” which happened to be my destination. I hauled myself aboard the bus (which, in typical Indian fashion never slowed down.)
Instead of the “thump on the side of the bus” method of navigation employed elsewhere in the country this conductor actually had a whistle to indicate things to the driver (though as with the thump on the side of the bus method, the a single whistle could indicate stop, go, turn, or any one of several other commands.

The ride to Attari, the final Indian town before the border, took about one hour. Upon arriving I had a quick breakfast and then grabbed a rickshaw (there were so many unoccupied that the drivers only requested 50% over the standard price, instead of the usual two or three hundred percent.) The air was just a bit warm, and the trees lining the road on the way to the border made it a very pleasant trip.

Upon arriving I had little trouble signing myself out at the Indian immigration office (though I wonder what would have happened if I hadn’t gone back to Raniganj to pick up my departure card.) I walked towards the Pakistan border post, along with dozens of blue-clad porters who were also making the journey. The porters weren’t just there to help out lazy tourists, but also because the Indian and Pakistani border posts are 1000m apart, and vehciles that haven’t cleared customs aren’t allowed to drive between them. Due to this, most goods being trucked between the two countries are carried on human backs for that one kilometre.

Between the two borders is a bizarre sort of grandstand, with one half on each side. These seats are used by tourists (both sub-continental and foreign) who come to watch the nightly border closing ceremony. I was far too early for it then, and I plan to watch it on my return to India, so I’ll leave the further explanation of the ceremony and its popularity for that time.

My first official contact in Pakistan was with a policeman who copied down my document details and chatted with me very amiably, only seeming a bit disappointed when I explained I couldn’t stay for the full two months of my visa. After a few more similar interactions at the immigration and customs buildings, I was sent on my way, ready to explore an exciting new country.
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Whistle Stops in Agra and Amritsar (last in India for now)

Monday, April 11th, 2005
The train trip from Varanasi to Agra was actually fairly boring. For once there were many other tourists on the train (this trip was the only one of my five train journeys in India where I saw even ONE ... [Continue reading this entry]

Holy Cities of Northern India: Bodhgaya, Varanasi and Sarnath

Thursday, April 7th, 2005
My first train trip in India began in pleasant fashion. I climbed aboard the Capital Express (all of the major trains in India [and there are hundreds of them] have names) at New Jalpaiguri Station and found my seat. ... [Continue reading this entry]

Four Hours in Phuentsholing

Saturday, April 2nd, 2005
Yes, the title is correct. I spent just over three hours in Bhutan. Even with the inclusion of the day's journey through India that took me to the border, it still won't be a long entry, but A. ... [Continue reading this entry]