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please grab my soap box.

Thursday, November 23rd, 2006

Happy thanksgiving everyone, or at least every American one. I just hit the eight month mark on my travels a few days ago, and I really haven’t missed a thing about my country, (family and friends don’t count, I miss them very much) I mean the “american things” like turkey and pumkin pie.. yummy, I can almost smell the aroma, from grandma’s kitchen..

Well sometimes you have to improvise and I haven’t seen a turkey in ages, the closest I have come is a very cripsy chicken, in one of the thousands of chinsese restaurants here in Tibet. Tonight, I will have Yak meat noodle soup, and wash it all down with a Lhasa beer! Not in a Chinese restraunt, but a smoky Tibetan tea shop, heated by the yak poo stove in the center of the room.

It is very hard to always support Tibetans here, truly the Chinese have taken over.. everything. The shops, supermarkets, restaurants. F**ing Chinese, the evidence is so blatant. Wandering through the old quarters of the cities, the houses made of stone, then covered in yak poo ( I think) and then white washed, ala Potala Palace style.. the cloth banners that are hung on the eaves of the rooves flap in the breeze, along with the tattered prayer flags that are on every rooftop usually accomipanied by a Yak head, The Yak the symbol of life, for these people. Everything is used from the poo, to the hair, woven into blankets.

Oops, getting off track, the Chinese influence on Tibet is staggering. The wide boulevards, and sterile modern buildings, in contrast of the old city makes the Chinese parts look nothing like progression, it looks like a hostile take over. Not to mention the communist statues that seem to be in front of every national monmuent, reflecting pools with the Chinese Flags waving so proudly in the bitter wind.

I am saddened to see these flags fly as well next to the prayer flags on the tops of the houses. I hate to be so anti- anything, really I think subjectivity is important on every level. But in the short time I have been here it is very clear that what the Chinese have been taking out of Tibet, extremely outweighs what they are putting in.. (and I don’t mean millions of people, new roads, and commericalistic binge)

It becomes evident to me that they are putting the Tibetans in a situation where, drinking and gambling are the favorite past times of the men, the women, unable to get jobs working at the nice new shops are reduced to selling handicraft at a side street stall, or worse doing road construction(yes the women) the children are going to the Chinese schools, learing no Tibetan of course,and the little ones too young to go to school are in the streets begging from the tourists and little can be done. The people watch as the rape of their county continues at a rapid pace, with what to do? I have to metion the Dali Lama is still in exile in India, and the Panchen lama is a puppet of the Communist party, the real one is still a political prisoner somewhere in China.

Yikes!

And the main reason I needed to say this is beacause of the fact that it is Thanksgiving.
I am reminded of what my country did to the Native Americans, when I look around at the situation here, It looks like the Chinese may have even taken some pointers on our genocide of a race, and rape and pillage of a country for their gain.. Of course we cannot turn back time, but maybe it is not too late for Tibet.. I would have hated to have written only of the amazing experiences I am having here, and not mentioned the poltitical situation which weighs on me so heavily at times I am reduced to tears.

So all I can do today, instead of having Turkey dinner, is eating Yak soup with some Locals, and playing with their kids until my cheeks hurt, Of course there will be much dancing and chang-a-mo (yak milk sweet tea) drinking, as another yak chip is thrown on the fire, and the faces are distorted through the smoke but are still smiling..

Tibetan people will never stop smiling…

Round Sera Monastery

Saturday, November 18th, 2006

Sera Monastery ,

We started out on a little kora to try to sneak into the monastery (70yaun ever time adds up) about 10dollars! Halfway through we meet a group of woman having tea in a shady spot by the river, we sit, share tea and cakes and fumble through with limited Tibetan and Chinese.
( I now speak four new languages very, very poorly by the way)

We try to sort out our path and they show disapproval at our anti-kora, so we begin the accent up the mountain in the correct direction. Up steep rocks we climbed, clutching and sliding, there must have been a safer way to the top. Of course there was but what is the fun in that? Finally we reach a small chorten (a Tibetan Buddhist shrine) at the top of a hill. From all around there are commanding views of the valley. Prayer flags are strewn down to the bottom. The scene is alot to take in and it takes awhile to continue because of the elevation makes every step feel like a thousand.

two steps.. breathe.. one step.. look around two steps…thinking about rolling down the mountain one step… breathe!

breathing is such effort, but with every step, you are compelled to make it just a bit further to climb just above the other ridge. To see what the other side has in store, mainly just more mind shattering views of the mountains.

In the middle we find a small monastery called sera utse. Only two monks live there year round. We are given yummy or extremely yucky yak butter tea depending on your taste. Really it tastes like a butter soup, I have no idea why they call it tea.. yak butter soup more like it..

A hour or so is spent playing with the resident cutey-pie kid, and then we make the precarious decent. Didn’t even make it to the monastery, some days you have to just spend in the mountains..

slowly I am becoming a kora junkie..

Lhasa

Friday, November 17th, 2006
Tashi Delek! So what to do in Lhasa? Visit Monastaries, walk in the hills and of course hang out with the Tibetan people, most of whom come from the country to make pilgramageto the holy sites around Lhasa, what a ... [Continue reading this entry]

On top of the World

Sunday, November 12th, 2006
At 11,863 feet Lhasa, is indeed on top of the world. Some people say it is the rooftop and I would have to agree this is the closest to heaven I have ever been. ... [Continue reading this entry]

Pictures too….

Friday, November 10th, 2006
Smooches.. enjoy some photos

Gaining Elevation

Friday, November 10th, 2006
Namaste! The last week here in Kathmandu has been pretty heavy to say the least. Alot of firsts, and very high times. No people not "that" kind of high times. The kind of high that you ... [Continue reading this entry]

the stuff addiction is made of.

Tuesday, October 31st, 2006
Namaste everyone! I have to report a slight addiction. I get up in the morning, usually about sunrise these days, get my things ready to have some adventures, but have to move ... [Continue reading this entry]

From the land of the Catapillar tika.

Friday, October 27th, 2006
Still feeling sick from the day's before purge of all the Momos and soup distinguishable in my system. I bounded a public bus heading eastbound to Gorkha. High in the middle Nepal hills, The King's ... [Continue reading this entry]

New title…

Thursday, October 26th, 2006
People, I have to admit. Lately, actually since I left france, I have not thrown a single pot. My hands ache to have the cool clay between my fingertips. The meditation that goes into wedging, centering, throwing, shaping, ... [Continue reading this entry]

Walking in the mountains

Thursday, October 19th, 2006
Namaste everyone! Hopefully things are well in your part of the world. Here in Pokhara, Nepal the days are Hot, Hot, Hot and the nights are Wet! I have never experienced the type of thunderstorms ... [Continue reading this entry]