The end is near… Tingri-Nyalam
Friday, December 8th, 2006So the next two days, were in essence a race to the border, upon arrival we realized that there wasn’t much to do besides gaze at the moutains and find shelter from the dust storms.
It only made sence to get ourselves closer to the border since our Tension visa was almost up.
Luis and I made our stand outside, waiting once more (which would be our last waiting) for the damn bus, and when one did arrive, it was during such a furious dust storm that we ran gaily to the yellow beacon, sending sheep and yaks running.
Once aboard, our happiness deflated immeaditaly when the Chinese driver demanded 5 times the going rate for the trip to Nyalam. We pleaded, I put on the best pouty face possible, and begged… This was met with the helper opening the door and with the wind and dust outside still thrashing about, he made to throw our bags out.
NO!!! Guchi, Guchi, Please!! Please!!
Somehow we got the symathy of the passengers and begrudginly they lowered the price enough that we could still ride on. Luis had to stand the 2 hours and I sat on a little basket in the isle. Still we knew we were very, very lucky, and happy that we were not going to have to waste another day waiting for the bus.
I would have to say despite the poopy way in which it began, the ride itself was the most scenic and beautiful I have ever experienced, with the two passes to cross you are then faced with the most magical view of the Himalayas.
Once in Nyalam, we meet a woman who is leading her Yaks home. She gives us the you come sleep at my home sign language and we follow her home.. For 10yuan a night we are a guest at Grandmas house, everything you expect to have at grandmas too, plates of sweets, tea, tsamapa, and we even get tucked in at night. With thousands of blankets almost crushing us under the weight. Oh the love of Grandma..
Our last day in Tibet was spent on a mission to Mileripa’s Cave (the great Tibetan mystic of the 9th century who became an alchemist in order to kill is uncle who stole land from his family. And spent 6 years meditatiing in this cave living only on local weeds as a diet and wearing nothing but a cotton robe the whole time) The walk was 10km there and 10km back, of course someone would give us a lift one of the ways, but alas no one did and we ended up walking the full 20km, in the raging wind to see Mileripa’s cave which was not in my point of view worth it, but it was a lovely walk.
And sometimes I love complaining, but kind of fitting for the end of such a bitter-sweet month in Tibet.
jessica