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A vacation from our holiday, or…

Tuesday, January 20th, 2009

A holiday from our vacation?  We’ve been asking oursevles which way it was.  While we’ve traveling for a few months now,  we really haven’t been in “vacation mode” or in other words, staying at our typical high end resorts and just being tourists.

Now, however, we jumped on a ferry and headed for Phi Phi Island (pronounced Pee Pee, which continues to make us giggle after a few beers).  We stayed a few nights at a beautiful resort, chilled poolside, took the snorkel boat cruise, and had a few tropical drinks.  It was a great break from traveling and felt a little strange to be pampered so much.  We did sneak off the resort grounds for some great, cheap local food in the village nearby – got to stay true to our nature (and our budget).

The water was warm and the views beautiful.  Today, though it was back to reality and Bangkok to do some last minute errands before we head off for our next stop:  Mumbai!

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A short ride on a longtail

Friday, January 16th, 2009

We arrived in Ao Nang, one of the beaches nearby Krabi, and spent the last few days eating some good shrimp dishes and wandering through the shops that offer tours/laundry/internet/t-shirts/Thai-Italian food.  Yes, one store can do all that, or at least many around here try.

We headed over to Railay beach today, which can only be accessed by longtail boat.  The cliffs that surround the beach offer some great views.  Here’s one from the ride home:

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Spicy

Tuesday, January 13th, 2009

Food is a big deal in Thailand. From the farms to the markets to roadside restaurants, you’re never very far from some aspect of your next meal. We’ve slowly gotten more adventurous in our meal choices each day and every time we try something new, it seems to get better.

Given our new found admiration for Thai food, we just had to take a cooking class while were here. After selecting a few dishes to make, the teacher took us to the market to show us what the ingredients look like and how to select them. The rest of the day was spent cooking a range of dishes from Pad Thai, stir fried chicken, spring rolls, papaya salad and sticky rice to making our own curry paste. It was a lot of fun, but the best part was getting to eat all of the dishes. I can’t wait to get to a place where we have a kitchen to try them on my own. However, I’ll probably cut the number of chilies in half next time. I like hot food more than most people, but these peppers were too much for me.

Later that night we attended a Muay Thai boxing match. It’s a bit hard to describe, and much better to see in person, but it was part boxing and part WWF, with a few rules thrown in. The surrounding venue is packed with a mix of bars that cater to all sorts of tastes (I’ll leave it at that). Anyway, add in a few Chang beers, and it’s a fun time.

Next stop: South

101 Uses for Bamboo

Monday, January 12th, 2009

We are back in Chiang Mai again after spending 4 days on a “trek.”  We were the only people signed up, so it ended up being a sort of private tour with a guide to ourselves.  I think the recent protests at the Bangkok airport have scared away some tourists, which is a shame because this area is great and stable, but hurting a bit from all the economic troubles like the rest of the world.

The trek itself was actually a big loop of northern Thailand with a variety of activities.  The first day we went to an elephant camp and saw how the mahouts (trainers) bathe and care for them.  They are pretty impressive animals and are surprisingly agile given their huge size.  From there we took a bamboo raft down the Ping River to meet up with our driver.  There are many hill tribes living as farmers in this areas and we stopped off in some of the Akha and Lisu villages on the way to start a hike up to our lodgings for the night. We stayed in a bamboo hut, but this one was “deluxe” with a shower and bathroom right next door. 

The next morning we hiked back from the village and headed through more agricultural areas to the Chiang Dao cave.  This area grows a lot of rice, as well as peanuts, corn, lychee, coffee, soy, and other crops.  There are bamboo plants growing naturally everywhere too, and the hill tribes put them to great use.  Everything from walls, floors, fibers for roofs, brooms, baskets,  a TV antenna pole, as a “pot” to cook a sticky rice treat in, cups, and so many other things are all made from it.  Pretty amazing plant.

As we went along, we stopped at quite a few temples and learned quite a bit about the different architectural and religious styles of the Burmese, Sri Lankan, and Thai inspired temples that are all represented here.  We spent a quiet night in a hotel overlooking the Me Kok River in a small town called Tha Ton near the Burmese border.  The next day we continued through more Akha, Yao, and Chinese (refugees from years ago) villages until we reached Mae Sai and the actual border with Burma.  We had the chance to cross over into Myanmar as it is now known, but decided not to.  You have to give up your passport when you cross and the fees go to the Myanmar government, not Thailand.  Didn’t seem worth it just to get a passport stamp and say we were there.

Our next stop was a Karen village where they train elephants.  We stayed in a nearby, but remote Lahu village, but the dirt road to get to it was too bumpy for our van.  The only way to get there is to hike up a steep hill, take a motorbike, or as we did, go by elephant.  Our elephant was named something like “Mingga,” but I preferred to call her Stampy.  About 10 minutes into the journey, the trainer jumped off and just “steered” her by voice commands walking behind us.  Occasionally she veered off the path to grab bamboo leaves to eat.  Going uphill was pretty scary, but slow.  Going downhill was terrifying.  I was pretty sure I was going to plunge off the side into a muddy stream.  However, over an hour later, we did arrive safe in Ban Yafu village where we fed her an entire bunch of bananas in one bite.

After the ride, we finally relaxed and checked out our digs for the night.  We were staying with a local family in their house completely made of, what else, bamboo.  They live a very simple life, but seem to be very happy and have all the basics – lots of food from the hill farms, as well as pigs and chickens who crow all night long – not just as dawn.  The government has also started a program to supply them with solar panels, so incredibly they have electric lights at nights.

After our night in the village, we hiked back down and took the van to the Golden Triangle.  This area is where the Mae Ruak and Mekong Rivers meet and forms the border of Burma, Laos, and Thailand.  It’s very strange to be able to look into 3 countries at once, especially given the vastly different political systems in each one. 

Finally, it was back Chiang Mai.  The trip was mentally pretty exhausting because there is so much to take in and think about.  I’m sure it will take days for me to really process everything we saw and did.  However, I’m starting to feel more like a real “traveler” and less like a tourist.  My biggest accomplishment came on the trip too.  I’m not an expert yet, but I can now successfully use the local toilets, aka the squatty potty, without too much distress or mess.  That’s it for today.

The grand bamboo:

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One of the quieter moments with Stampy: 

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Chiang Mai

Wednesday, January 7th, 2009

This post will be a quick one. We’re in Chiang Mai now, but heading out tomorrow for a “jungle trek” for the next 4 days. We’ve been enjoying ourselves and indulging in everything this town has to offer. The markets are fun, the massages relaxing, the food yummy, the temples beautiful, and everything costs way less than we expected. Lunch for 2 (i.e. pad thai, fried rice, and 2 cokes) was $2.50. Our budget is saved.

We also took two new forms of transportation for the first time – a tuk tuk and a songtaew. While the former is pretty common in Asia, the latter was new to us. It’s basically a pickup truck with covered seats in the back that cruises around picking up passengers who are going in the same general direction. Got us there in one piece. So long for a few days. Hopefully we’ll be back with some interesting photos and stories.

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