The Ruins of Ayutthia and The Northern City, Chang Mai
Sunday, February 19th, 2006So it’s been awhile since I last updated. I must admit, the north is a very relaxing place to stay and the people are great, so it’s been hard for me to pry myself away from the couches and the markets to write this.
After another wasted day in bangkok, where my only two successes were getting my India Visa process started and booking a ticket to Delhi, I began to head north. My first stop would be Ayutthia, the old capital of Thailand. Ayutthia was sacked in the late 18th century by what is now modern day Myanmar (aka Burma). It was a beautiful city of numerous Wats, Shrines, Palaces, and fine Buddha images. Now what remains are a series of ruins. The Buddha statues have their heads chopped off,the palaces have been burnt to the ground, a few walls made out of brick remaining. But, walking around this once immense city gives you a glimpse into “medieval” and “renaissance” thai culture. In fact, the city was so large, that some estimates place it as the biggest city in the world for its time, both in sheer area and in population. But it suffered the all to common fate of a city that had grown beyond itself, beyond its own control.
For anyone interested in Thai architecture this is a must-see as the Thai buildings are amazing. Many of them made out of red-clay brick, similar in appearance to the town houses of the USA, the Thai kings had huge shrines created for the remains of their relatives and large temples built that housed thousands of monks. One of the most filmed image of thailand is the image of the head of Buddha in the form of a statue with overgrown tree roots partially covering it. It remains as one of the only existing heads of Buddha in all of Ayutthia’s ruins and provides interesting theories of how it got there. Surprisingly though, it was a little dissapointed. I was expecting a huge 6 or 7 ft tall head under a huge tree, when in reality I almost walked right by the damned thing without noticing it.
After a full day in the hot and humid air of modern Ayutthia, I was exhausted. Seemingly so were the skies. No longer able to hold the weight of all the humidity in the clouds, it poured like no other. It was the first time I really saw it rain and thailand, and so far, the only time. Everyone took shelter under whatever they could find, poor motorcyclists arrived at their destinations drenched, and the streets flowed with an interesting shade of brown. I was just happy it cooled off a little bit and I had a place to read. SO I sat back in the train station and waited a whole 4 hours for the train to Chang Mai, Thailand’s second largest city.
Chang Mai:Let me first say, taking the train instead of a bus is a beautiful thing. The train provides those little creature comforts that make an 11 hour journey not so bad. Whereas the train is cramped and almost painful for someone of my height, on the train I get my own bed, complete with all of the fixings. Now of course I pay 3 times as much, but it all adds up to about 13 dollars, so not bad. Well worth it to get a full nights rest, especially after the smoldering day before. I get into Chang Mai in the morning, as the sun is rising over the mountains and onto the rice paddies and through the windows of the train. I decide that I’ll buy the ridiculously over priced breakfast offered by the all-too-eager waiter, so that im fresh for Chang Mai and finding a place to stay. BAD IDEA. For the first time in my life, breakfast does me in. Off all the crazy street food i’ve eaten, from questionable curries to scorpions and grasshoppers, eggs over easy and a little piece of Ham has me puking all morning at an internet cafe. And to think, I paid triple the usual price of breakfast to be sick. I’ve actually been going back to the same internet cafe where I puked because I wanted to give them some business in exchange for the mess I left in the bathroom.
So here I’ve been in CHang Mai, relaxing with fellow travellers, going to night markets, clubs, and watching movies. And to think, I wasn’t even going to go to this place. It turns out it’s been one of my most enjoyable stays.
More to follow as usual….