Delhi – Water, water, everywhere
Yesterday (9th March), I slept late again, so unlike me – either this is me in total chill-out mode, or I’m still getting used to Delhi time. A bit of both, maybe?
I’d decided to go and see the Red Fort in Old Delhi today, one of the major sites, a relic from the time of the Marharajas. My first attempt at negotiating an autorickshaw wasn’t what you’d call a success – I’d walked away from one asking for 50 rupees, and somehow ended up in one that was 70. I haven’t quite got the hang of this yet! Still, considering there are 80 rupees to the pound, not a bad deal either way. Heading there meant a dash through crazy Delhi traffic. I know I keep going on about this, but you should really see it! I took a couple of photos, but don’t think they’ve really captured the absolute fear of the overtaking, complete lack of sticking to a lane (in fact there are no lanes – the middle of the road is pretty much who dares wins). Crossing roads takes a paticular brand of insanity as well, which I have entered into with gusto. You just wait for a 2 second pause in the traffic, and then go. How more people don’t get pancaked is beyond me, truly.
The entrance fee to the Red Fort was 11 rupees for Indians, 100 rupees for foreigners. There are separate queues at the ticket office, and a man with a stick makes it clear which queue you are to get in. I can see the point of encouraging Indian nationals to visit sites of such major historical importance (I’ve been told the same’s true for the Taj Mahal as well), but you’ve got to hand it to them for their honesty about it!
The Red Fort was absolutely massive, on the scale of a big old British castle, to get some idea of it, with the walls facing the city about 30 metres up, all in red stone (surprising, really, given its name!) On entering, you walk through a covered alley with craft shops, then through into the main grounds. To be honest, it was a bit of a disappointment, as all you can see are the outsides of the buildings within. That said, the architecture is absolutely stunning, some of the details are so intricate, considering the scale of the place. At the back wall there is a great viewing platform, cool because it is so high up, giving wonderful views of the place further down the river where Ghandi was cremated. There were also lovely lawns there, where I took shade for half an hour, fending off the local chipmunks, and watched a group of about 50 teenagers, accompanied by nuns, walk round with a guide and kept saying, in chorus, “oooh” and “aaah” every few minutes. Completely enchanting. Less enchanting was the guy who came over to me and demanded “give me water, I am hungry for water”. I refused, and instead pointed him in the direction of the water stall. Ever so helpful, me.
I walked back out of the Red Fort – admiring the tenacity of the touts who tried to sell me a guide book after I had seen it all – and decided to take a cycle rickshaw up Chandri Chowk, the crowded bazaar streets of Old Delhi. I found a fabulous guide, Rajiv, who showed me round for 3 hours, including a trip to what seemed like a little-visited tower at the top of the spice market, with amazing views down to the chaos below. The highlight, though, was a completely deserted Jain temple, down a quiet street a world away from the insanity outside, painted all in pastel colours. I had the temple to myself, and the guide showed me round with lots of interesting information. The place is over 1000 years old, and is completely covered in gold leaf. Stunning. He ambushed me then and gave me my first bindi of the trip, out of yellow sandalwood oil. Scared of becoming a tree-hugging ‘traveller’ type, I got rid of it back at the hotel, but it was nice to have for a while.
Coming back out of the temple, I got pelted with water from above. Next week is the major festival of Holi, marked by people throwing coloured water and powder at each other, and it looks like these kids were getting in their practice early. I’m going to stock up on dark clothes for next week! Luckily in this heat (it’s been pushing 40 degrees), it dried off really quickly.
Back at the hotel for a quick pit stop, then headed out for something to eat – I’m quite conscious of being out too late by myself, the stares and comments are fine to deal with in the daytime, you just ignore them, but me being Captain Sensible like to be back at my room by dark, which means eating early. I went to a restaurant in the backpacker district, and had the most delicious vegetarian Thali, which is a selection of various dishes, a bowl of rice, and, in this instance, 2 naan breads. I was in foodie heaven.
Today is my last day in Delhi, I’m heading to Agra tomorrow for the famous ‘Princess-Di-looking-wistful’ shot in front of the Taj Mahal.
And now, to answer Gabi’s questions (and help with Sarah’s geography lessons)
1. Yes, it is very, very hot in India. It has been nearly 40 degrees every day, which is hotter than Spain or Crete. Somehow, though, it’s not as noticeable when you are walking about than when you are sitting by the pool.
2. Yes, the people here have brown faces, some are dark brown, some are light brown. I have seen some beautiful smiles, Indian people are very friendly and welcoming.
3. I don’t know many words in Indian! I will have to learn. I only know “Namaste”, which means hello. Did you know there are lots of different languages spoken in this country?
That’s all for now, I’m off to spend some rupees on an aloo paratha for lunch and then hit the shops. Maybe I’ll get the hang of this haggling lark.
Tags: India, Travel
Suzanne
If there’s one thing I learnt from shopping with you, mum, Caroline, Aunty Rosemary et al, it’s that the real success in shopping (or haggling) is not the price you pay, but how much you are saving on the sale price, or how much you have managed to barter them down in the process.
It’s far better to pay £50 for something that was originally quoted at £200 as you’re saving £150, despite the fact there’s someone down the street selling the same item for £45. Think of how much you are saving. :0)
Love you lots,
Michael
Hi Suze,
“50 teenagers, accompanied by nuns, walk round with a guide and kept saying, in chorus, “oooh” and “aaah” every few minutes. ”
Must have made you feel right at home stumbling across the Dehli Branch of the Eric Cantona Supporters Club.
As energy sapping as the heat out there sounds, I’m sure you’ll appreciate it that little bit more if I was to tell you it’s about 5 degrees here at the moment and we’re on a third consecutive day of persisent rain!!
Two days in and it sounds like you’ve had some amazing experiences already. A great 18 months lie ahead. Take care.
Paul x
Hi Suze. I’ll give you 9/10 for your wonderful essay on Water Water Everywhere. You’ve certainly set a very high standard to start with – just make sure from now on it’s not down hill all the way. You’ll notice I awarded you a 9 and not 10 for this diary entry as (I’m sure all your teacher friends will agree) this may motivate you to aim for a 10 along the way. Delhi sounds a fascinating place. Hope you didn’t make any purchases in the spice market as your family are all “spiced out” since you kindly distributed your vast collection of spices amongst us before you left on your travels. I’m sure you’ve taken some good photographs of the Red Fort and I’m looking forward to seeing them.
Keep safe. Miss you and love you lots.
Mum
Hi Suzie:
Lovely to see your entry again on the blog….. The Red Fort does sound fascinating.
Most of all, I’m so pleased to hear that you won’t be out in the dark alone – give yourself a gold star for that one! I agree with your mum your description of everything you’ve seen/done is excellent – but then your essays when you were a little girl were something else. Another lovely wet day here so it’s water water everywhere
in Bebington at the moment. Enjoy to-morrow – looking forward to photos. etc.
Take good care – All my love – Auntie Rosemary x
Okay, will only write once this time, promise!
I’m loving your tales – it allows a few moments of quiet escape from the madness of teenagers! My sixth formers are fascinated by your travels and ask for regular updates!
Can’t wait to see the photographs!
Take care and keep enjoying!
xxx
Hi Suze aka Hobo!! Great to hear all your exciting news and ventures. Logged on at about 6am at the end of night shift feeling extremely shattered with pouring rain/ blustery conditions outside to hear your baking in 40 degree heat- you lucky madam!! Just getting ready for Angelas surprise 30th ( which you were invited to… shame your thousands of miles away) then going to Joan and Tony’s wedding anniversary party tommorrow night then Gabi and myself off to Manchester to watch those famous X factor finalists!! What a treat…. Of course it was Gabi who kept pushing me to buy those tickets!! Keep enjoying… Look forward to hearing all about Saturdays adventure. Stay safe ( and indoors after dark to keep Rosey happy!! ) Lots of love Claire-Louise x x x x
Great to hear your views on delhi suze, agra is something else though from bedlam to tranquility . take care Phil xx
Hey Suzie!
I’m hooked already! Love reading about your adventures – was thinking that you could turn it into a book when you return and in true Sex and the City style, you could fund your Jimmy Choo obsession with the profits!
Looking forward to the next installment!
Caroline
xxx
Hi Suze, love reading your stories , especially imagining you on a rickshaw, what speed do you go on one?
Glad you are getting back before dark. Are you looking forward to seeing the Taj Mahal, I would love to see it. How are you finding the food, not too spicy i hope, or do you like your food spicy?
Missed you at the party last night for our Joan, the music was very good[a male solo
singer–sang a lot of the 60 s songs] and everyone was up dancing.
It is snow outside today, came down through the night, so hoping it will thaw soon.
Hope the heat doesn’t overwhelm you too much,,, happy travelling love Angela xxx