Delhi/Agra – A teardrop on the face of eternity
No, I’m not getting all poetic, that’s how a writer once described the Taj Mahal. More of which later… (just to make sure you keep reading!)
My last day in Delhi, although somewhat of a non-event in that I just wandered around, was fun in that I finally started to ‘get’ it. Delhi’s great if you just go with the flow, expect the unexpected, and just appreciate it for what it is. And what it was, on that day, was raining. You know, I leave England to get away from the weather, and it follows me all the way over here. Just in case you’re starting to get worried though, I can reassure you that it was still very, very warm. I can see you wiping the sweat away from your forehead as you read. The rain turned the streets of the main bazaar into a mudbath, and I eventually gave up on trying to keep my feet clean. The one concession I made was turning my trousers up, even though they got splattered with mud all the way up. I took refuge in a few of the shops along the bazaar, as I’d decided I wanted to buy a couple of items of clothing. You know me – never knowingly undershopped. I ended up with two Indian cotton tops, and one long skirt that would have been the height of fashion last year. Still, I’m in Delhi, and I’m guessing that fashion sense isn’t really a priority here. The clothes averaged out at 1 pound each – nearly as cheap as Primark! I had so much fun haggling with the vendors, and think I’m finally starting to get my haggling stripes. When the rain got too much, I took refuge in a cafe, where I downed a couple of cups of chai – the local tea, very sweet and milky and spicy, and absolute heaven in a cup.
Back at my hotel, I had a hose-down, and packed up my bag completely, as I had a really early start the next day, and didn’t fancy trying to jam everything into my backpack at 4.30am. I’ve brought waaaay too much stuff, yet deciding what is and isn’t chuckable is so difficult – everything suddenly seems very essential when you’re living out of a backpack. I didn’t sleep too well, paranoid about missing my alarm, and worrying that I wouldn’t be able to find an autorickshaw at 5.15am, when I had to leave for the station. No worries at all on that front – when I stumbled, bleary-eyed, out of the hotel, two magically pulled up outside. I tell you, these guys have a sixth sense about when you need them. Brushing aside the first one who insisted on 50 rupees to take me to the station (I could have walked it in 10 minutes), I haggled the second one down to 30 rupees, and he and his friend giggled hysterically as I had to back into the rickshaw to fit my backpack in. I found the platform, the train pulled in on time, and magically, I found my seat. I was sitting next to an American guy, Gary, travelling with Michelle, who was over at the next table.
My first experience of Indian trains was very good indeed. This particular train is comparable with a good European service (so not British Rail then – bit of politics for you there, Ben Elton fans), only better. Gary and I chatted all the way to Agra, a journey of two hours, and we got on really well – he and Michelle are from San Fransisco, and have been on the road since last year. We were delighted when we got a meal on the train – spicy vegetable cutlets, with two chips (???) and peas, plus bread, jam, juice and tea. Music cranked up as we were served as well, it’s obviously a digestive aid over here! Thinking this was fabulous, we were surprised when the guy sitting opposite me asked to speak to the Train Manager. He then launched into an attack on the food, “The quality of this is very, very poor. Not good. I am a hospital consultant. This is not good food. There are 60% Europeans on this train, what will they think?” Glancing round, I could see no other Europeans apart from myself, but maybe he knew more than I did. We were also intrigued by the relevance of his profession; he even handed his business card to the manager – maybe that qualified him to know good food? Either way, it was very entertaining.
We arrived in Agra on time, and were joined by Brad (a friend of Michelle and Gary’s, who they met in Africa earlier on their trip), and David (an Australian who had been sitting next to Michelle). We all decided to go to the same hostel, and were treated to a new version of haggling – we said where we wanted to go, and immediately the taxi drivers fought it out amongst themselves for the cheapest price.
The hostel was ok, not brilliant but popular enough and close to the Taj Mahal. After a few minutes to settle in, we set off en masse to see one of the wonders of the world. We managed to take a wrong turn in Agra’s winding streets, and ended up wandering through little residential squares filled with holy cows, and children throwing stones at monkeys. After getting back on the right track, we paid for our tickets – an almost-extortionate 750 rupees (nearly 10 pounds, although how do you put a price on perfection?) and, true to form, the Indian entrance price was 10 rupees. Although, we did get a free bottle of water, which makes it all worthwhile. We had to go through strict security, which was quite reassuring because of the recent bombs in India, and leave various items in the lockers – Gary’s laptop, my mobile phone, and, bizarrely, my compass.
That done, we were through the gates, and faced by surely one of the best sights in the whole world. It’s hard to remember a time when I was more overwhelmed by something, especially a man-made structure. It’s odd, you know, the building is so familiar from photographs, television, pictures, and yet, seeing it is something different altogether. I’m sure I can’t do it nearly enough justice in words. The marble seems to glow in the light, and it’s a very symmetrical structure, built on a platform so you see nothing behind it but sky. The pools leading up to it seem to draw you in and towards the Taj, throwing off perfect reflections. I took about a million photos, so I’ll upload some of them soon, and you can all look forward to the slide show when I get back. “Here’s one of the Taj Mahal. And another. And another. Oh, and another one”. We had to cover our shoes to go in, I think, though I’m not sure, it’s because it’s a Muslim tomb. Inside, a perfect soaring arch houses the tomb of Mumtaz, the woman whose death drove the Shah to such grief that he built this monument to her. Well, not personally, I’d imagine he had a bit of help.
Despite the number of visitors there, the grounds were surprisingly peaceful, surrounded by cool green lawns. Some time, and millions of photos later (including the Princess Di one, though I don’t pull off ‘wistful and enigmatic’ in the same way that she did), we left the Taj grounds and went for lunch on a rooftop restaurant. Later, four of us went up to Agra Fort, which, in my humble and uninformed opinion, was miles better than the Red Fort in Delhi. Many more nooks and crannies to explore, and a million more photos of architecture to take – again, look out for that slide show, folks!
Dinner that night was on our hostel rooftop restaurant, where they had saved us the best seat in the house, looking out over the Taj. As the sun went down and the Taj glowed golden in the dimming light, we listened to the Muslim call to prayer echoing out across the city, I sipped a cold beer, looked round at four new friends, and felt that I had been blessed by happiness.
Tags: India, Travel
Suzanne
Hi Suzanne, it continues to sound amazing – and your detailed and well written accounts will probably make me the most informed traveller never to have travelled – but you know me, never one knowingly to miss the opportunity to use a bit of knowledge to lie.
I was delighted to hear they served you jam and bread on the train (“Yes I’m sure the Taj Mahal was great an’ all but lets hear more about the food!”). I’m considering writing to Richard Branson with your account. A nice bit of cake would definatyely make me ride the train more.
Anyway, hurry up and post the photo’s so I can back up my false accounts with pictoral evidence. (Are there any of a small Indian man which in a bad light could possibly be me???)
God Bless,
Elephant Apple (Snr) x x
Having just driven to work on a Monday morning through snow and ice, it’s so nice to be able to sit down at my desk with a cup of tea and spend a few minutes catching up on your adventures before my working day kicks into life. Especially when the accounts of your travelling are so interesting. I’ve noted down the outburst of the man on the train and I’m definitely going to include my profession in all future rants on public transport.
Love you lots,
Michael
PS Everton 3 (Three) – 1 Fulham
Hi Suze: Lovely to read another very descriptive account (your English teach would be proud!). I’m glad you met up with some other travellers, must be nice to chat and talk about your lives back home etc. You sound very relaxed and happy and that’s what it’s all about – (besides the wonderful experiences). Like Michael says, it’s cold, and sludgy after quite a heavy fall of snow yesterday; so much so that my friend was sitting on the plane in Belfast ready to fly into Liverpool yesterday when they all had to disembark as they’d closed the airport in Liverpool (very annoying as it wasn’t snowing in Belfast) anyway that’s the end of her 3-day trip but we’ll catch up again soon I’m sure! – Looking forward to all those wonderful photos. Take good care
Much love and God Bless….. Auntie Rosemary x
What can I say but another 9/10 for this great page in your travel log. I understand it takes time and effort on your part to keep us updated, especially when you are on a go-slow computer, but it really is appreciated.
Hope everything continues to go well.
Miss and love you lots.
Mum
Hi Suze,
Looking foward to seeing some of your pictures in due course.
Like Mike has mentioned, it’s nice to get into work, get a brew and look foward to the daily dose of your tales and like, Andy, I was only thinking myself how much knowledge I’ve gained already through your experiences. (If you come across that darkened image of a local man infront of the Taj Mahal, send me a copy aswell – they’ll never get on to us Andy!!)
Take care and look foward to hearing more.
Paul x
P.S. Two of Lou’s friends and I polished off two bottles of your Vin Rouge on Friday night so just a quick thank you for the bad head on Saturday morning!! Beattie’s exquisite chip and McFaddens 25 yard volley were a marvellous cure, before a night in the Razz for Lou’s birthday later that evening.Say no more!!
Hi Suz
Good to read all your adventures…Im enjoying it!
And good to hear your train journeys are going welll….thats what I like to hear.
Snow and flu over here Im afraid, so your not missing much!
x
To suzie I hope you are having a nice time I have finished the book called THE POLE STAR FAMILY.It was really good.I have started Malory towers.See you next year.Lots of love from Gabi.xxxxxxx
Hello hello!
Have just caught up with the ‘Amazing Adventures of Suzie’ after the girlie hen weekend and have missed you so much! I love reading all you’ve been up to – it’s just beating SIMs as my new favourite computer obsession!! What an amazing time you’re having!
Whilst you’re coping with the heat, we were nearly snowed in at the cottage! You manage with a rucksack, whereas we managed to just about squeeze into the car once we’d filled it with the absolute essentials!!
I’m so glad you’re having such fun!
Keep safe! All my love,
Sarah
Hey Suzie
Rooftop dinner overlooking the Taj Mahal sounds fabulous! Really looking forward to seeing all your step by step photography.
Getting VERY itchy feet now …
lots of love and hugs
C
x
Hi Suzanne!
Just think you could have been at my suprise party on Friday,(Claire, its a good job I have only just caught up with this travel blog!) but instead you decide to travel the world!
Its lovely to hear that you are safe and sound and enjoying being a free spirit.
You might have the sun but we have the snow…yes I know which I would prefer and its not white!!!
Looking forward to hearing more!
Love Angela xxx
Hi Suze, what an amazing time your having, it really feels as though we are experiencing every bit of your journey with you… What a cheap way for us to enjoy the world!! I’m currently on yet another night shift!! Angela rang me earlier and pointed out that it was a good job she didn’t read your blog before her SURPRISE PARTY on Friday night!! I had written that I was getting ready for her party.. She truly didn’t have clue about it which was a miracle for Angela and she seems to pick up on everything!! We were all so sure she must have suspected something but her face told us she had’t a clue ….. i could have been the one to spoil it all had she logged on pre-party!! Had the most amazing snowfall overnight on saturday… mind due I didn’t enjoy the hour it took me to clear the path to get the car back on the path!! Your hat you have given Gabi came in very handy along with my recent purchase of trendy wellies!! I looked a right picture though, a real mish mash of colours and clothes!! Went to see the X factor finalists last night, Gabi loved it as did Mummy!! Keep safe and enjoying every minute. Lots of love C L x x x
Hey, I just wanted to say Hello. i was googling for my friend Gary’s travel blog and I found a picture of him and Michelle with you! I thought it was a nice coincidence. He’s in the Philippines now with my boyfriend.
Happy traveling.