McLeod Ganj- little Tibet
Having done the city of Amritsar in a day, it was time to head back to the Himalayas, this time to the state of Himachal Pradesh.
I planned to go to Dalhousie first, but read between the lines of the description in the guide book: “people come here mainly for the views”, and understood “there’s nothing to do here”. Instead we headed to Dharamsala, via Pathankot where the group now increased to five with two people from Quebec. Pathankot is just a junction town, and the bus station was in the usual state of disarray. “Which is the bus to Dharamsala?” . Ask someone else . Get on bus. Bus is going somewhere else. Get off quickly. Ask someone important looking who says it will be here at 2pm, but he can’t possibly sell a ticket until it arrives. Consequently, when it does arrive, there’s a mad scramble for tickets. And then a mad scramble to fasten bags on to the roof of the bus. At least this means I won’t be crushed by my bag for the next 4 hours like I was from Amritsar. The countryside is flat and green, until suddenly the mountains and the snow capped peaks rise ahead. The bus struggles with the road, passing a bend where a lorry lies crumpled below with a crowd of onlookers. Must have ignored the “Be gentle on my big curves” and “This is not a race, it’s not a rally, take your time, enjoy the valley” signs. Finally the bus pulls into Dharamsala. On the ridge above is the small town of McLeod Ganj, home to the 14th Dalai Lama and the Tibetan Government in exile: this is where we head (after more confusion over buses). McLeod (about 1800m) is more Tibetan than Indian, and as a result much calmer and quieter with no hassles from touts, though there are lots of beggars.
The next week is spent walking various mountains and waterfalls (and getting lost);
visiting the surounding villages of Bhagsu and Dharamkot (much more ‘local’ and traditional); and the Tsuglagkhang complex where the Tibetan temples are (including the sign that urges you to make sure your shoes are not stolen). Here the various statues of Buddha are presented with various gifts and offerings- mostly cakes and biscuits! There’s an interesting museum about the Chinese Occupation of Tibet (in my limited World History knowledge, it all seems very Nazi), and the kidnap of the next Dalai Lama when he was 5, 11 years ago. It surprised me that refugees from Tibet still cross the Himalaya on foot to escape. There is a pilgrimmage trail called the Kora which follows a clockwise path through the woods behind DL’s house. Tibetan mantras are painted onto the rocks; prayer flags flutter in the trees and shrines and prayer wheels are around every bend. 
Another highlight is the gompa where the monks argue various points of religion and philosophy beneath the shade of the trees every afternoon. When an argument is considered to be won, there is much stanping of feet and clapping of hands.
Another change in McLeod is the diet: here we swap the ever present mutton and veg and rice curries of Kashmir and the pure-veg and rice of the Punjab, for Momo’s (Tibetan steamed dumplings served with the world’s hottest chilli sauce).
Tags: Travel
Nick