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Feeling Sicky on the Hokey Pokey

Saturday, November 19th, 2005

I loved Caye Caulker, but I finally made it off the island. It was becoming a bit of a local joke where I would say i was leaving tomorrow and then people would see me the next day saying the same thing. Still, when it’s good it’s good – time’s on my side.

Sunset on Caye Caulker
Sunset on Caye Caulker

Monday was the day of escape, taking the water taxi back to the mainland, then a couple of local buses – Belize City to Dangriga, then Dangriga down to Placencia. When I say local I mean really local. Stopping at every pothole in the road to pick people up/drop off. Finally arrived in Placencia after nightfall and we were greeted by an old man offering lodgings, which turned out to be perfect, especially as were strangers in a strange land with nowhere to stay. It felt like we were the only people in the village on the first night, but the next day more backpackers turned up and the place started to come to life. Had a beautiful day on the beach with sunshine and tranquil waters, followed by much rum and coke in the evening.

Proceeded to spend the next 4 days in Placencia, and while the weather never returned to the form of Tuesday, it was still a cool place with beautiful friendly people. The faces from Caye Caulker kept popping up as the week progressed and ended on a high on Thursday night – perfect for getting that hangover for travelling Friday morning!

Managed to get to the Hokey Pokey water taxi at 10am Friday, took that down to Independence where we (just) caught the bus up to Hopkins for the Garifuna Settlement day celebrations. It’s been pretty shitty weather since we got here, which has put a bit of a dampener (!) on the party but there’s more fun tonight so all will be good.

Out of interest, since starting my trip in Mexico I’ve been hearing the Gasolina song all the way along – has this made it to England or is it just sweeping over this continent?

Caye Caulker – Go Slow

Friday, November 11th, 2005

Caye Caulker

I’ve been in Caye Caulker for almost a week now, and think that it’s time to make plans to move on. Life here is just too laid back and easy that I can see myself slipping into the lifestyle and never continuing my journey.

Al, Ed and myself arrived here last Saturday morning when it was overcast and raining occassionally – not what we were expecting. We sorted out accommodation and within an hour we all had a beer in hand and the sun came out to play – welcome to paradise island.

Ed and Al
Ed and Al

The beaches are white sand, palm-fringed, turquoise blue sea kind of thing. The place is so friendly and laid back, everyone speaks English (with a dollop of Creole) and reggae lazily drifts out of most bars and restaurants. You just can’t help but smile here, and that’s coming from me which says a lot.

The three of us went out snorkelling on the Monday morning (I’ve lost all concept of time and dates) with a small group of people. The local reef was beautiful with loads of tropical fishes, sharks, manta rays, coral etc. I really enjoyed the experience (first time for me) and will have to do some more on my travels.

After a couple of days the Tucan tour that we had left back in Mexico rocked up, with 30 new people and a few that were on the first leg of it with us. The next few days were fantastic as Ed, Al, Charmaine, myself and joined by Charmaines new partner in crime on the tour, Terrie. We all hung out together eating, drinking, kayaking round the island and generally having fun. I should mention a couple of the locals we’ve met. Maurice is the man, a big tall rasta dude from Chicago, living on the island running his own bar & grill – Wish Willys. He provided much hospitality which led to Terrie and myself ordering items which are not on the menus of any of the other restaurants in the area – the girl is a bad influence on my innocent self! Another local Reggie was working in the ‘I and I’ bar (reggae bar with hammocks and swings) and he’s such a nice guy. He’s originally from Hopkins on the mainland and I will no doubt bump into him again when I go there for the big music festival next weekend.

Come Thursday when the Tucan tour left along with Ed and Al returning to England, I found myself feeling sad and sorry for myself. This is going to be the toughest part of travelling, meeting really good people and then having to say goodbye all the time – what a pisser!

Still, within a couple hours I’d met some more people in the hostel, went out for drinks with them and had a really good night. How fickle am I?!!!

Right I need to go and start planning where next – I aim to get off the island in the next day or two and should get off the net before I run up a bill for more money than I have on me.

End of the tourist tour

Saturday, November 5th, 2005
After 2 very busy weeks crossing Mexico on the big yellow (come and fleece us we're rich) Tucan bus it all finally came to an end last Friday. Despite having had 2 occasions on the tour where I seriously considered ... [Continue reading this entry]