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Monkey Business

Tuesday, May 30th, 2006

After a bus trip along what must have been the worlds second most dangerous road we miraculously arrived in Rurrenabaque (Rurre) early morning, then onto a boat two hours later in the pissing rain on our way to the start of our jungle tour.

The weather improved from here on, and with our guide, Mr Miyagi of Karate Kid fame, we set off from camp to climb through thick vegetation, across rivers, upto to high lookout points and out at night to try to find some of the ever-elusive wildlife, which prefers to stay hidden by day. We managed to find very little but wandering around in the dark with nothing more than flashlights was fun of a scarey kind.

The Mexican singer Pedro Fernandez sizes up a tree in the jungle
The Mexican singer Pedro Fernandez shows us which hand he prefers to wank with in the jungle

After 2 days in the jungle we returned to Rurre for a night before heading out the next day for a 3 day pampas tour. The Pampas are the level wetlands that back onto the jungle and cross over the border into Brazil, where they get renamed the Pantanal. This was the place to come and see wildlife. After several hours in a 4×4 we boarded a wobbly little boat which would be our transport for the next few days.

The tour took in cruising down the river looking at the many birds, turtles, aligators etc., then out at night to shine torches in the aligators eyes, and even to catch a baby one for voyeuristic purposes. Another day we went out trudging through foul smelling swamp water in search of an anaconda (and water bourne tropical diseases). Didn`t find an anaconda, but lovely walking through shitty water and grasses all the same.

The cutest rabies carriers you`re ever likely to meet
The cutest rabies carriers you`re ever likely to meet

The last day we did a spot of piranha fishing, saw some gay pink dolphins and had it all topped off with a monkey invasion on the boat. The tours had been fantastic, and after returning to Rurre for a night we took a cheap flight back to La Paz, where I stopped for a few days and said goodbye to Rico, Ben and Dan who were on a tighter time schedule. Bumped into some guys I`d met in Santiago though, small world that it is here on the gringo trail.

Now down at Lake Titikaka, which spans the Bolivia/Peru border, at a place called Copacabana (I don`t think the Rolling Stones will be playing at this one). Heading out to the Isla del Sol (mythical Inca island) tomorrow for a couple nights before heading on into Peru friday to Cuzco.

La Paz and a nice little cycle ride

Wednesday, May 17th, 2006

The La Paz electricians are on acid
Wired in La Paz

After catching another dodgy bus out of Cochabamba we finally managed to make it to La Paz, the capital of Bolivia. For superlative fans, it`s the highest capital in the world, but it seems like everywhere in South America has got some sort of similar claim. All I know is that it`s bloody hard work walking up the steep streets when there`s this little oxygen in the air. The city is set in a big crater between the surrounding mountains, so flat streets are unheard of and breathless hill climbing is unavoidable.

There are many things that make La Paz, and to some extent the rest of Bolivia, quite unique in it`s strange ways. There`s the shoe shine boys who wear balaclavas to disguise their identities (freaks you out a little when you first see them coming for you armed with a shoe brush), the old ladiers in traditional dress which involves wearing a lot of skirts to give them a fat arse and a bowler hat which doesn`t fit, it just sits on the top of their heads, and then there`s the wiring on the overhead pylons (see photo above).

One attraction of the city is the witches market, where they sell everything from the obligatory colourful blankets and llama/alpaca wool indigenous clothes, to herbal remedies for everything under the sun. Then there`s the llama feotuses, gutted frogs covered in glitter with marbles for eyes (if I thought I could get it through customs he would be sat in my bag now), bird skeletons and other unidentifiable `things.´

After four days in this city we had to escape the madness so we booked our trips in the jungle and pampas, starting first with a mountain bike ride down, wait for it, The World`s Most Dangerous Road, or Death Road as it`s more affectionately called.

Death Road
A small stretch of the Death Road

This dirt track of a road set on the side of a valley has the dubious claim to fame of having the highest number of deaths on it per year, so naturally you want to take a bike and fly down it avoiding the trucks and buses which drive up and down it. In reality, biking it is the safest way, you don`t want to be in a bus when there`s a truck coming the other way trying to pass on the narrow track. The drop in altitude from start to end is something like 3000 metres and it makes for one hell of a ride.

Coming out unscathed at the end I just wanted to do it again, but instead opted for a shower, food and a night in Coroico, the nearby town, before heading off to Rurrenabaque the next day for our jungle and pampas tours.

Struggling to reach La Paz

Friday, May 12th, 2006
I`ve been as slow getting round to updating these pages as the internet is here in Bolivia, so here`s a couple of quick catch up entries. After Potosì we took a taxi to Sucre. It seems ridiculous, borgeouis even, but with the ... [Continue reading this entry]

Dynamite, alcohol, coca and lung disease: A Miners Life

Sunday, May 7th, 2006
Since arriving in Bolivia I´ve covered a lot of ground faster than I normally travel. I met a group of guys waiting for the bus to Potosi and have travelled with them up to now, and I think it´s thanks ... [Continue reading this entry]

From desert to snow-covered mountains

Saturday, May 6th, 2006
Valle de La Luna Valle de La Luna bathed in the light of the setting sun  Myself and the aussie couple, Andrew and Megan, booked ourselves onto a two night/three day 4x4 trip across the ... [Continue reading this entry]

Mendoza and Santiago

Tuesday, May 2nd, 2006
Plaza España in Mendoza  Plaza España in Mendoza I spent my last couple days in Argentina in the heart of wine country in a place called Mendoza, in the east of Argentina level with Buenos ... [Continue reading this entry]