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Kelimutu: the Multicoloured Volcano Lakes

Sunday, January 3rd, 2010

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The active volcano Kelimutu is probably the most famous site of any kind on Flores, and really it’s the reason I (Brendan) had an interest in Coming to Flores, since my first visit to Indonesia almost 20 years ago. Its fame comes from its three crater lakes, each one with a distinct–and continually changing–colour. Pictures of the lakes are on postcards all around the country.

Getting to the volcano summit for sunrise involved a very early morning drive along predictably crappy roads, followed by about a half hour plus hike up to the crater edge. As it turned out, one of the three craters was filled with clouds. Although we couldn’t see the (apparently black) lake, it did make for an eerie, beautiful bowl of clouds that gradually lifted exposing trees and the crater edges.

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Tiwu Ata Mbupu (Lake of Old People) is usually blue and is the westernmost of the three lakes. The other two lakes, Tiwu Nuwa Muri Koo Fai (Lake of Young Men and Maidens) and Tiwu Ata Polo (Bewitched or Enchanted Lake) are separated by a shared crater wall and are typically green or red.

 

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The local coffee guys who live in the area come up every morning and serve coffee they grow, roast and grind themselves…and they’re quite the characters. One of them got our man Note dressed up, complete with a machete and filter-free kretek (clove) cigarette.

flores-day-3-kelimutu-138.jpg

 

Flores Day 3 - Kelimutu Coffee Man

In The Land of The Betel-Nut Chewers

Saturday, January 2nd, 2010

Just outside the Flores Island hill town of Bajawa are hundreds of traditional communities living much as they did a hundred (or a thousand!) years ago. We were lucky to have the chance to visit a couple of these, home to the Ngada people.

Ngada village

The Ngada are matrilineal (family lines follow the mother and–gasp–women are in charge!) and a ritual-oriented people, with elaborate courting rituals, animal sacrifice, polygamy and all kinds of other cool stuff. Their villages circle around large courtyards filled with graves of ancestors and altars to the village founders; the ones we visited sit on the slopes of one of Flores’ massive volcanoes. Building construction and symbolism in their architecture are virtually unchanged from centuries ago, despite the fact that they have been somewhat Catholicised. [Note: Mel is extremely confused by the concept of selective Catholicism. How would the church react to polygamy?!]

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One other cultural trait (one not at all limited to the Ngaga) is their fondness for Betelnut. Splotches of red spit are everywhere and pretty much every woman over 40 has a big red blob where their teeth should be. [Note: one of our group had earlier remarked on seeing the red stains on the road that “there must be a menstruating goat” in the neighbourhood, a comment that became a joke with remarkable staying power. Hi Ellie!]

 Betel Nut …add a little lime wrap it in a leaf…

Of course, Brendan just HAD to have some, and had one of the old ladies whip him up a batch. Red tongues are sexy!

et voila!

Breaking News: Happy New Year!

Saturday, January 2nd, 2010
We interrupt this regularly scheduled blog (which, due to our recent weeks away from the Internet, is a few entries behind) to wish everyone a HAPPY NEW YEAR! [Continue reading this entry]

Playing Hooky

Friday, January 1st, 2010
escape! Eight days into this road trip back in time, we’ve decided we need a break – Brel style. So we’ve hired a private car and driver and have separated from our group for a few days. We’ve ... [Continue reading this entry]

The 12 Days of Christmas in Flores

Thursday, December 31st, 2009
“On the twelfth day of Christmas, my true love gave to me…” 12 Squatters squatting 11 rice paddies growing 10 flying bats 9 menstruating goats 8 scooters swerving 7 samabals burning 6 roosters crowing 5 Laaaarge Bintaaaaang 4 mie goreng 3 long-tailed Macaques 2 civet coffees And a chicken in a maaango ... [Continue reading this entry]

Things I Think About during Endless Bus Rides

Wednesday, December 30th, 2009
Things I Think About during Endless Bus Rides – by Mel 1. Have not had liquids in 7 hours. Am I dehydrated? Must avoid peeing in the roadside squat toilets at all costs. 2. Is my Imodium working? If it isn’t, how will I ... [Continue reading this entry]

Selamat Hari Natal (a.k.a. Merry Christmas!)

Tuesday, December 29th, 2009
flores-day-5-bajawa-540.jpg Our first married Christmas wasn’t really the way we imagined it would be. There was no ‘First Christmas’ ornament for the tree. No family gathered ‘round drinking eggnog. No Christmas carolling or turkey dinner or gifts. It ... [Continue reading this entry]

Goodbye Luxury, Welcome to the Real Indonesia

Monday, December 28th, 2009
As much as we enjoy living the luxurious side of life, of course we need to balance that with a little reality. mission toilet Welcome to Reality. We are spending the next week on the island of Flores – a ... [Continue reading this entry]

A visual goodbye to Japan

Friday, December 18th, 2009
The Dancing Elvises

Shibuya1  Shibuya2 Shibuya3 Harajuku1 Harajuku2 ... [Continue reading this entry]

Final Thoughts: Tokyo

Friday, December 18th, 2009
 tokyo-day-2-3-176.jpg By The Numbers • Pounds lost/gained: Mel -5, Brendan +5 • Trains taken: 40+ • Number of times Brendan had to eat a second of third mean because Mel didn’t like what she’d ordered: almost every meal • Number of Japanese words Mel ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Randomness Continues

Thursday, December 17th, 2009
There’s so much to see in Tokyo that in seven days you can’t even scratch the surface, let alone accurately blog about it. Our approach to Tokyo has been very anti-Brel: long days of walking and exploring while trying to ... [Continue reading this entry]

On the road again!

Monday, December 7th, 2009
Well it's been 18 months since our first big adventure ended prematurely, and a lot has happened since. We're married now, and we are the proud parents of a one-year old (ok, a dog named Brella, who will undoubtedly make ... [Continue reading this entry]

A Little Brel Catch-up

Tuesday, December 1st, 2009
Brel Engagement Party 121 Ok, this is Brendan here. My voice was seldom heard in past blogs as it always seemed I had more work-related writing to ... [Continue reading this entry]

Istanbul was Constantinople, Now it’s Istanbul, not Constantinople…

Sunday, July 20th, 2008
Brel in Istanbul Welcome to the crazy and wonderful city of Istanbul. It's been a long road to get here - nearly 4,000 km in fact. Istanbul is famous for many things, not the least of which is ... [Continue reading this entry]

Random Turkish Sites Part 2

Friday, July 18th, 2008
Ephesus toilets…

Troy The lost city of Troy was discovered in the late 1800's, along ... [Continue reading this entry]

Random Turkish Delights – Part 2

Tuesday, July 15th, 2008
“Please buy my carpets….” As we continue our journey through Turkey, we're becoming more familiar with the culture, people and maybe even a little bit of the history. (Ugur, our tour guide: if you are reading this, ... [Continue reading this entry]

Surgery in Athens…Update

Tuesday, July 15th, 2008
It's been a week since the surgery, and things are progressing well. Nurse Powell has been diligently carrying out his tasks with much love, and Mel is definitely on the mend. The drainage tube (yuck) is finally out, the drugs are ... [Continue reading this entry]

Breaking News – Surgery in Greece

Wednesday, July 9th, 2008
Really, it’s not my wine… We interrupt your Turkey blog reading to bring you real-time news from Athens (our blog is usually a week behind our adventures). In an unfortunate twist of fate, Brel have found themselves ... [Continue reading this entry]

Rumi and the Whirling Dervishes

Friday, July 4th, 2008
Whirling dervishes Come, come, whoever you are. Wanderer, idolator, worshipper of fire Come even though you have broken your vows a thousand times. Come, and come yet again. Ours is not a caravan of despair. -Mevlana Rumi We had the opportunity to ... [Continue reading this entry]

Kas – on the Lycian Coast

Thursday, July 3rd, 2008
Kas While it may not be as well known as Greece for it's coastal towns and islands, the Turquoise Coast is gorgeous. We spent some time in Kas, a beautiful town set amidst cliffs on the Mediterranean. ... [Continue reading this entry]

Random Turkish Sites – Part 1

Wednesday, July 2nd, 2008
Mel and some ruins… We have seen some fabulous sites in Turkey. Some highlights:
  • The underground city of Derinkuyu, an extensive city that housed upwards of 10,000 inhabitants, thousands of years ago.
  • Chimaera, home of the eternal flame. For ... [Continue reading this entry]

Happy Canada Day! (from Turkey)

Tuesday, July 1st, 2008
Canada Day in Turkey Happy Canada Day from Brel!

Random Turkish Delights – Part 1

Tuesday, July 1st, 2008
Mezes As we continue our 4,000 km, 14 day road trip, we have fallen in love with Turkey. Food: The food here is delicious. Our options (thankfully) are more varied than meat-on-a-stick (though shish is available everywhere). And ... [Continue reading this entry]

Ballooning in Cappadocia

Thursday, June 26th, 2008
Brel in Cappadocia It's almost impossible to describe the landscape in Cappadocia. Formed millions of years ago by 3 volcanoes, years of erosion, water, oxidation and wind have combined to create incredible, magical formations referred to ... [Continue reading this entry]

Bathing in a Hammam – Surprisingly only an RF 4

Wednesday, June 25th, 2008
Hammam Of course we had to partake in one of the oldest rituals in Turkey, the Turkish ... [Continue reading this entry]

Lessons Learned in our First 3 Hours in Turkey

Monday, June 23rd, 2008
  1. Being a blond western woman is an invitation to stare. Like 4 people at the same time,for a minute or longer, without any attempt to hide who and what they are staring at.
  2. Like other Muslim countries, the less skin shown, ... [Continue reading this entry]

Mid-Brel-Adventure Review

Sunday, June 22nd, 2008
It´s hard to believe, but the Brel Adventure is half over. Seems as good a time as any to take a look back: Random Stats
  • Countries visited: 7
  • Cities visited: about 30
  • New passport stamps: 23
  • Favourite countries: Costa Rica and Argentina
  • Favourite city: Buenos Aires
  • Number ... [Continue reading this entry]

Final Thoughts…Ecuador

Friday, June 20th, 2008
Brel!  By the Numbers
  • Number of check-ins during our Quito hotel tour: 7
  • Number of pounds Mel shed in a desperate bid to not return to Toronto at her all-time highest weight: 7ish
  • Days of consecutive sobriety after all that wine ... [Continue reading this entry]

Brendan´s Iguanas

Thursday, June 19th, 2008
Hey B….I like you too! Brendan was a bit obsessed with taking photos of the many endemic iguanas in the Galapagos, so it seemed wrong to not have a blog dedicated to them. You have no idea ... [Continue reading this entry]

Lonesome George

Wednesday, June 18th, 2008
Mel hanging with a tortoise The Galapagos Islands are famous for their giant tortoises - in fact they were named for them. Here you can see 200 kg tortoises measuring over 1 metre in length. Humans have ... [Continue reading this entry]

Birds of Galapagos

Tuesday, June 17th, 2008
 Nazca Boobies There are all sorts of endemic birds in the Galapagos Islands. Some highlights for your reading and viewing pleasure:

Party Under the Sea – Black-Tie Optional

Monday, June 16th, 2008
Galapagos Penguin Snorkeling opportunities abound in the Galapagos Islands - there are multi-colored fish, sharks, octopus, sea horses, turtles, starfish... The most exciting thing to spot however, is the Galapagos Penguin. Endemic to this area, the penguins ... [Continue reading this entry]

Home Sweet Home – The GAP Adventurer V

Monday, June 16th, 2008
Our yacht With memories of our sailing trip in Brazil still fresh in our minds (16 bunk-beds in one room, no showers, crazy toilet ritual, etc.), we were pleasantly ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Best Boobie Show in Town

Sunday, June 15th, 2008
Whatchyou lookin´at? Undoubtedly one of the highlights of the Galapagos Islands is spotting the blue-footed boobie.  (insert boobie joke here). About the size of sea gulls, the blue-footed boobies have, well, blue feet. The mating ritual involve ... [Continue reading this entry]

Sea Lions and Brel – Kindred Spirits

Saturday, June 14th, 2008
Brel? Lounge in the sun. Take a few steps. Flop down. Swim in the sea. Repeat. Such is the life of the Galapagos sea lion. Sound familiar? Hundreds of sea lions line the rocky shores of most of the ... [Continue reading this entry]

Galapagos 101 – Survival of the Fittest

Saturday, June 14th, 2008
Welcome to Galapagos! I remember as an 11 year-old, waking early every Saturday morning to watch Jack Hanna´s Animal Adventures. For a few years, Jack focused exclusively on the wildlife of the Galapagos Islands. With every tortoise, ... [Continue reading this entry]

More Amazon Photos

Thursday, June 12th, 2008
 Return of the Titi monkey As predicted back in Costa Rica, the thrill of seeing monkeys has yet to wear off.

The real thing…an anaconda[Continue reading this entry]

Special Blog for Jack – Frogs!

Tuesday, June 10th, 2008
 la-selva-day-3-033.jpg (Jack is Mel´s 4 year-old nephew) Hi Jack! You would have loved the Amazon!  We saw all sorts of frogs: poison-dart frogs, tree frogs, glass frogs and a bunch I don´t remember the names of. We thought you might enjoy ... [Continue reading this entry]

98% DEET, 100% Amazon

Sunday, June 8th, 2008
A paddle down the Amazon  Getting to La Selva Lodge (www.laselvajunglelodge.com) isn´t easy: the journey begins with a flight from Quito, followed by a 2.5 hour ride in a motorized dug-out canoe along the Napo River, ... [Continue reading this entry]

Playing Pioneer

Friday, June 6th, 2008
 Home sweet home… In a country with as much history as Ecuador, it seemed only right for Brel to spend the night in the oldest hacienda, 400 year-old La Guachala. Amidst our antique furniture, we easily slipped into the ... [Continue reading this entry]

Mitad del Mundo

Wednesday, June 4th, 2008
  No visit to Ecuador would be complete without a visit to the place where the middle of the world was declared, in 1736 . The equator, the widest part of the world, crosses only 7 countries. The museum at ... [Continue reading this entry]

Lessons Learned in South America´s Largest Artesan Market

Monday, June 2nd, 2008
We find ourselves in Otavalo, Ecuador, home to South America´s largest outdoor market. I should have anticipated this would be trouble.   Lessons learned:  1. Markets are a lot of fun. I actually hyperventilated a little when I saw it. 2. Bargaining makes me feel good. It doesn´t ... [Continue reading this entry]

Brel World Tour – Repeat Toronto Appearance

Friday, May 30th, 2008

With our tour of South America almost over, we will be in Toronto from June 15 - 20, before heading off to Turkey.

We´d invite you all for a BBQ were it not for the fact that we are homeless. We´re ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Middle of the World

Thursday, May 29th, 2008
 Hummingbirds  It´s high time Brel spent some time apart. And with Brendan writing away and working hard to meet deadlines, I ventured into the Ecuadorian cloudforest for the weekend. Two hours from Quito (the capital and largest city ... [Continue reading this entry]

Important Brel Itinerary Updates

Tuesday, May 27th, 2008
We are in the midst of planning the third and final leg of our adventure and would love your thoughts if you´ve been to any of the countires on our itinerary. We´ve changed our plans considerably (yay Africa! see you next ... [Continue reading this entry]

Vines of Mendoza

Monday, May 26th, 2008
 Luigi Bosca With over 1,000 wineries, Mendoza really is a wine lovers´paradise. And with only one week to explore, you can imagine the pressure Brel was feeling to sample as many as possible. While our livers may ... [Continue reading this entry]

See, Swirl, Sniff, Sip and Savour – Brel Style

Monday, May 19th, 2008
 Brel tasting session “Wine tasting is the sensory examination and evaluation of wine. There are five basic steps in tasting wine: color, swirl, smell, taste, and savour. Essentially, a taster is looking for clarity, varietal character, integration, expressiveness, ... [Continue reading this entry]

Don´t Cry for me Argentina…

Saturday, May 17th, 2008
 Out the bus window..
Don´t cry for me Argentina  The truth is, I never left you All through Puerto Varas  And Santiago I kept my promise You knew I´d be back....
Sorry Chile...our hearts are still in Argentina, so we´ve returned to spend some time in Mendoza, a.k.a. ... [Continue reading this entry]

Final Thoughts…Chile

Friday, May 16th, 2008
wineries-015.jpg  Moments We´d Rather Forget...
  • How much we made everyone worry that we were too close to the erupting volcano
  • The sticker shock - especially after a month in Argentina
  • How North American it all seemed...
Highlights...

Santiago – kind of like a big bowl of pollution

Thursday, May 15th, 2008
Mmm…smell that clean air… This is a bad time of year to visit Santiago. Surrounded by the Andes, it's kind of like a cesspool of pollution. The air is thick and nasty and you can't actually see the ... [Continue reading this entry]