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Animals, animals, everywhere!

Friday, July 6th, 2007

So we finally got the cash together to go on safari! Our driver and cook came and picked us up at L’Oasis and we were off to Ngorogoro.

Ngorogoro is a crater – volcanic in origin – that has a water source year-round so a lot of the animals just hang out year round unlike the Serengeti where there’s the migration. We saw tons of lions laying about, zebra, hippo (I can honestly say they are just about the funniest – I mean they just kind of lay around in the mud/water and splash water onto themselves – they have tales that kind of have a spoon on the end so it’s just comedy), of course impala, wildebeast (these guys totally crack me up – they make this totally funny noise and have a funny beard – although when I saw them I kept flashing back to this totally lame movie we saw on a bus in S Africa where these zoo lions go out into the wild and get captured by wildebeast and of course they dance – it looked Disney, but I don’t think it was) and the black rhino we saw through binoculars (too far away to see them up close). Anyway, it was like a big zoo.

The funny part was where we camped. There’s this one humongous camp on the edge of the crater (you have to get out of the actual crater by 6 pm or else you get fined) where all the camping safari people camp. And apparently animals feels safe (pretty much feeling safe from lion). We had zebras just wandering around all the tents eating grass, an elephant just hanging and in the morning this buffalo was just looking at us like we were dumb for looking at him.

And we lucked out with our cook, Solomon. Especially looking at some of the stuff some of the other people were eating. Especially the soup. I mean, when you think carrot soup, you think…that sounds just nasty. But it was soooo good. As was the zucchini soup and the leek soup…and we’re talking about a guy cooking with charcoal and having to cook stuff that would wouldn’t go bad over the 5 days. And he was totally cool – we bought a bunch of wine with us and we’d give him a glass each time we opened one.
The 2nd day we drove to the Serengeti. And we saw the coolest thing. Our guide, Tebie (I am so butchering his name but I have no clue) spotted a “fresh kill” in a tree. And where there’s a fresh kill in a tree, there’s a leopard nearby. So like in a little while here comes this leopard going up this tree and starts gnawing on a gazelle. I was seriously awed at this whole thing. I mean, really, how many times are you going to see a friggin’ leopard eating an animal. Oh, and we saw tree-climbing lions. Which I had no idea existed. Apparently, according to our guide, the lions had migrated from Lake Mynara (that is such a name butcher again – I apologize), following food (like Wildebeast and Zebra) and that the native Serengeti lions couldn’t climb because they are too heavy.
That night we camped at Seronera – a smaller camp with facilities that were a bit less than the last camp. And they had these places where you could take a “shower” (sponge-bath). Everyone at the camp was taking these and John and I were like, oh geez, what’s the point – it’s so dusty and you’re going to get all nasty in the morning anyway. We were cracking up when this girl went into the squat toilet (pit), walked out, called to her boyfriend who apparently needed to help her – the look on her face was precious – I’m not sure what people think when they book a “camping safari”, but apparently that wasn’t it!
The next day we went on an early morning game drive and ended up seeing a full-sized male lion and all these cute little cubs that John insisted were going to grow up and be big scary lions but, well, they were cute as cubs. You just wanted to pick them up and hold them (although they were kind of big so they were probably at least 50 lbs!) It’s kind of sad because as soon as you see something cool it gets radioed out and then you’re surrounded by 15 other safari vehicles, but well, I guess that’s how it goes!
After lunch back at the camp, we packed up and headed to Lobo – the camp to the north. On the way we went to the Rhino Pools and saw the funny Rhinos again. It was soooooo different going from the south Serengeti to the north. Lots more trees, lots greener – it was really dry in the south. We were the only ones at the camp on the 3rd night. And a good thing too because there were “very public toilets”. Meaning, the public toilets had nothing around them. Not even a bit of tin. So the bushes were our friends. We went to the lodge for sunset where the safaris that were a bit out of our range housed their peeps – I mean, it doesn’t really get much better than a sunset over the Serengeti.

Flycatchers

Monday, June 25th, 2007

Okay, I had no idea about this whole concept until we got to Arusha.  This is the place where most safaris start from.  We took a 9 hour bus ride (should have taken quite a bit less time but we stopped EVERYWHERE).

So we land at the bus station.  We were followed, at one point, by 10 “Flycatchers” – guys that are trying to get you to go to their safari company/hotel/whatever the heck else they’re trying to sell.  And we were really stupid.  We should have just grabbed a cab, but everywhere else we just walked from the bus stations.  So we walked to this one hostel – but they were full – so we were walking to this one hotel and these 2 guys in mini-vans from Victoria Expeditions (it was so funny because the guide from the safari company we actually went with when we were telling him about these two guys goes “I bet it was Victoria Expeditions” – apparently they camp out on top of this hill near Arusha looking for Mzungu’s (white people – oh by the way, did I mention that I’m white here! – so funny!) on the bus.  And then they try to “catch them”.  They were trying to convince us that no hotels were going in the direction we were headed – this well-to-do older woman asked us where we were going – and we told her L’Oasis – and she totally got rid of the minivans and told them in Swahili – something that made them go away – and had a man from in front of the President’s compound (which apparently we were passing at the time) walk us there!  Kindness of strangers!

L’Oasis Lodge – kind of out of the way but it has literally become our oasis – we’re staying in the backpackers annex – smaller rooms with shared bathroom – but they have a bar and pool we can have access to – and the coolest people working there – considering we had to stay here long enough to arrange the safari and take the maximum allowed out of the ATM machine here – everyone wants cash and with us being on the road – not like we carry around that kind of money so we just stayed a few days and took money out every day!  Anyway, the next entry will be about our safari!

Village trekking

Monday, June 18th, 2007
Oh by the way, the previous post happened on my b-day - I'm the big 35 now! Boy, the difference is amazing... Anyway, we arranged with the Visitor Center, as per our bible, the Lonely Planet, a 4 day trek ... [Continue reading this entry]

Lushoto, Usambara mountains

Monday, June 18th, 2007
So after a few days in Dar es Salaam, which is the capital of Tanzania, we headed to Lushoto, a town 5 hours by bus away. The bus station in Dar was CRAZY! Luckily we had a good ... [Continue reading this entry]

Tazara fun

Monday, June 18th, 2007
Hello again! It's been a while, but, well, wow is the internet funky here in Tanzania. Anyway, we took a bus from Livingstone to Lusaka (Zambia)...about an hour in the driver stopped to take a pee. Like a road ... [Continue reading this entry]

Oops, forgot about the Walking Safari…

Saturday, June 2nd, 2007
So I was so excited about Vic Falls I forgot about the fantastic walking tour we went on a couple of days prior... Near Livingstone, where we're staying, there is a small national park that has animals.  But instead of being ... [Continue reading this entry]

Vic Falls – okay, way impressed…

Friday, June 1st, 2007
Hello, what's shaking? We hopped an Intercape bus from Windhoek, Namibia to Livingstone, Zambia.  It stopped in a gazillion places (well, considering it was quite the long bus ride, it kind of makes sense) and pretty much dumped off everyone but ... [Continue reading this entry]

Namibian vacationland…

Saturday, May 26th, 2007
So we're in Swakopmund.  It's on the coast.  It's apparently where Namibians vacation.  And I'm feeling icky.  Head cold.  It probably doesn't help that I was wearing my heavy winter coat in Windhoek and now it's totally sunny - John's ... [Continue reading this entry]

Namibia – sand and car adventures…oh, and zebra racing!

Thursday, May 24th, 2007
Hello again!  So our 2 heros (yeah, I know, very debatable) took the "luxurious" bus from Cape Town to Namibia.  We left at 10 am from Cape Town and got to Windhoek, Namibia at 6 am the following day (although ... [Continue reading this entry]

Penguins and Tables…

Thursday, May 24th, 2007
I really should just concentrate on one thing at a time, but of course that doesn't happen... Anyway, we took the highly efficient commuter train from Stellenbosch to Cape Town.   It was pretty much like any commuter train in the states.  ... [Continue reading this entry]