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Gorillas – or not!

Thursday, August 9th, 2007

So, at the start of our trip, we wanted to go see the rare Mountain Gorilla.  Then we found out the price in Uganda to see them went from $360 to $500.  For 1 hour.  And other people that went have said they could have left it off and been very happy.  So that’s why we went and saw the chimps instead.  Because $1,000 USD doesn’t grow on trees.  Apparently we aren’t alone because we’ve met a bunch of people that decided to skip it when the price went up.

But that doesn’t mean we couldn’t go to one of the parks where they hang out!  We decided to go to Mgahinga Gorilla National Park to climb a volcano.  Luckily, these aren’t active.  So, in order to get there we went to Kabale from Fort Portal (where we barely slept after the toilet at the hotel went haywire in the middle of the night and it was going to flood the room so we had to change) – we caught the 6 am bus and got there in the afternoon.  John was not feeling very good for the first few hours because we decided wine the night before was a good idea.  We stayed the night at Edisira where we met this cool woman from Denmark who gave us an awesome recommendation on a place to stay in Kampala (where we’re staying!) – then went on the worst matatu ride of our Africa journey.

4 1/2 hours on a minibus with 25 adults/kids stuck in it is not pleasant.  Especially when the kids are young and the bus doesn’t stop.  So let’s see – pee/B.O. – oh and the seats – not very comfortable.  I still haven’t recovered.  Oh and I have a bruise where I was shoved up against the window.  I have never wanted to get off a minibus so much and not even care how I was going to get the rest of the way there.  Oh and the road was terrible.

Anyway, we finally got to Kisoro – the gateway to the park.  We stayed at the Hotel Virunga and arranged the 12 km transport to the park through them and arranged a hike in the park the next day with the UWA.  We decided on the smaller of the 3 – Mt Gahinga because Sabinyo had 101 ladders going up it.  And Muhavura was pretty much straight up.  We had already done one of these African straight ups and 101 ladders sounded like just a pain so we decided on the “big pile of stones”.  It was in the middle so we were hopeful we would be able to see the other 2 if it was clear.

We decided to have lunch at Travellers Rest and ran into the 2 Germans from the CVK we had met previously.  The had a harrowing experience getting to Kabale as well.  They got on a minibus and they had to change 2 times into 2 different minibuses just to go what took us 2 hours the day before.  I guess nothing is ever easy.  They had a long walk ahead of them so we bid them on their way.  They walked 12 km with their big backpacks to a campsite – we found out the next day that it took them 3 1/2 hours!  Yikes – glad we arranged transport!

Chimps, chimps and more chimps…

Thursday, August 9th, 2007

So after a brief visit to another place that was full…which we couldn’t call because the Lonely Planet’s phone numbers – can you say that half of them didn’t work?  I swear, we wanted to chuck the book out the bus window half the time.  And it seemed like if the book REALLY RECOMMENDED somewhere, that it’s like an athlete being on the cover of sports illustrated – they’d be closed down – anyway, we ended up at the CVK Resort/Campsite.

It was great – good food – really quiet – except for the frogs at night – oh my goodness!  Can you say loud!  Wow, I didn’t realize how loud they could be!  Anyway, we arranged to see the chimps at 8 am the next day.  And we decided to walk from the CVK to Kibale where the chimps are located.  It took us 2 hours.  In the dark.  In the forest.  It was fun but leaving at 5:30 am – kind of dark.

And we could not lose this dog that hung out at the campsite.  We thought we locked her in but she must have known a way around the gate.  Not exactly the smartest dog either.  She almost got shot at the park because they didn’t want her bouncing around the national park.  And she almost got attacked by a baboon on the way back.  But apparently, according to 2 Germans, Sandra and Peter, that were staying at the campsite too, there are baboons there too and they are afraid of her so when she saw a huge family of baboons on the road back to the CVK she just bounded up to them and let’s just say they were WAAAAAAAYYYYYY bigger than she was.  I thought she was going to get us killed because baboons are not very nice when they are provoked (so we’ve heard) – and we were with this dumb dog.

Anyway, the chimps were okay.  Apparently it wasn’t hot enough that morning because the chimps had no incentive to come down to the ground since they weren’t hot in the trees.  Everyone said we were lucky to see the chimps (even in the trees) but I felt a bit ripped off.  They did look like humans hanging from the trees though.  Like you can tell they’re 99% of us just by body movements and stuff.   But the monkeys on the way back were really cool.  There were like 5 different kinds and we also had some right outside our banda (thatched room at the campsite).

The next day we caught a matatu back to Fort Portal where we stayed the night so we could catch another long bus ride to Kabale.  We wanted to go hike a volcano in Mgahinga Gorilla National Park and Kabale is the portal for that.

Too good to be true…

Thursday, August 9th, 2007
So we get back to Kampala and find out from the Backpackers that our trip got cancelled.  Which is so funny considering the Red Chili Backpackers who we wanted to go with has been booked for about a month out.  ... [Continue reading this entry]

Mount Elgon and Sipi

Thursday, August 9th, 2007
So after doing nothing the next day except for walking to a waterfall which was really a rapid...we headed to Mbale because we were contemplating doing Mt Elgon. We stayed at this place called the Mt Elgon View Hotel ... [Continue reading this entry]

Jinja by Bike

Wednesday, August 8th, 2007
So we get up the next morning and decide we want to see Jinja by bike.  So this guy at the backpackers rented us bikes that we could just bike for the day and then bike out to the Bujagali ... [Continue reading this entry]

Getting out of Kampala, Uganda

Wednesday, August 8th, 2007
Yes, we're lame.  Yes, it's been like a really long time since we've updated this lovely blog.  And John is looking at pictures right now.  So hopefully we'll be able to update some stuff.  Anyway... We head to Jinja.  The Source ... [Continue reading this entry]

Ugg or Gugg?

Friday, July 27th, 2007
We landed in Kampala after our extra long bus trip and called John's friend.  He came an picked us up and took him to his apartment.  It was totally weird.  John had worked with this guy at HP and the ... [Continue reading this entry]

Part of Tanzania, or not?

Sunday, July 22nd, 2007
So we head to Zanzibar - I was very optimistic that this was a totally blown out of proportion place because everyone says this is a "must-see". And it was like $35/pp/one-way just to take the boat. Actually ... [Continue reading this entry]

Leave your heart

Monday, July 16th, 2007
So we decide to head to Zanzibar.  I figured this would either be the coolest thing or the most overrated thing.  We had met so many people that loved Zanzibar.  Zanzibar is this island off Tanzania that used to be ... [Continue reading this entry]

Salty Lake and Hellish Volcano

Monday, July 16th, 2007
So, originally what made us go with Tanzania Adventures was that the guy that came and pitched to us told John we could climb Lengai at the end of our trip. Little did we know that it would reveal a ... [Continue reading this entry]