Is this the same Cuenca?!?!?!
Discoveries
It´s been over 2 months since I´ve returned to Cuenca, and in some ways, I feel very settled in here. After a month and a half, I finally had all of my documents in order, making me a non-immigrant resident, and I quickly reacquainted myself with all of my favorite Cuenca haunts. In many respects, I know Cuenca better than any other place I´ve ever lived.
And yet, I continue to discover Cuenca and Ecuador. I´ll never forget my first year in my house. Every season fascinated me, as it showed me new aspects of my house. It was fun in the spring to see what flowers popped up out of the ground, in the fall I discovered just how many trees I had on my tiny property, etc. My time in Cuenca has been very similar, as I´ve experienced Cuenca through its various yearly celebrations. And major events aside, I continue to find new favorite restaurants, foods, parks, etc.
I have also discovered the rich element of Cuenca. When I was here before I stayed in the central part of Cuenca, which contains all of the history, tradition, pride, poverty, and charm of Cuenca . My time was spent with the working class of Cuenca, talking with street children, shoe shiners, guards, store owners, etc. On a daily basis I had to make sure that I had singles and fives, as most of my money transactions rarely exceeded $3, and people would laugh if I handed them a twenty dollar bill, expecting change.
But, now that I teach for CEDEI, on a daily basis I rub elbows with the richest of Ecuador´s rich. Cuenca still has its poor huddled masses yearning to be free from their disenfranchised impoverished lives. But, overall, Cuenca, with the highest cost of living in Ecuador, is FAR from the 3rd world provincial experience that many of you may think I´m suffering.. Discovering all of the places in Cuenca that one would find in virtual middle class USA has actually inflicted on me a form of culture shock, which is strange considering how long I´ve lived in Cuenca. I don´t mean to say that Cuencanos shouldn´t have nice comfy lives like we do back in the states. But with their ipods, cell phones and other toys, rich Cuencanos, while still very Ecuadorian in some ways, adopt many of the attitudes and customs of USians (I don´t like to use the word Americans to refer to only those of us in the States), and that is not always a positive or attractive thing. Because I spend so much time with rich people, I value even more my relationships at the orphanage. Being there, it´s easier for me to remember why I came back to Ecuador, and what I really love and value about this country.
I have discovered that CEDEI is a horrible institution. It´s run by USians who at best are incompetent and unprofessional, and at worst, are arrogant assholes who treat the Ecuadorian employees in a way that both infuriates and embarrasses me. Before I engage on an angry rant, I will say that CEDEI is a perfect example of a beautiful house built on sand.
I also continue to discover more about the Spanish language and Ecuadorian culture. From my students, conversation partner, Spanish teacher, and Ecuadorian friends, I have learned more street talk, idiomatic expressions, and even a few good forbidden or sexually explicit words. I of course never plan to use the malas palabras (bad words), but I do think I should be able to recognize them, especially if they´re ever directed at me. One of my favorite idiomatic expressions is, translated, “to be between the sword and wall.” I think that´s a much more striking and emotive phrase than its English counterpart, “to be between a rock and a hard place.”
And, thanks again to my conversation partner and Spanish teacher, I have learned quite a bit more about Cuenca history and the indigenous culture. I could write volumes about what I´ve learned. But for now I will say that I am confident I could live the rest of my life here, and never cease to be fascinated by what I learn here.
World Cup
Imagine what it would be like to be in a country that is playing the Cup for only the 2nd time in its history. I CANNOT explain the fevered pitch that infused Ecuador before, during, and after its triumph over Poland. There are no words to explain how emotional, how heady, and just how unbelievably joyous it was when Ecuador scored its first ever goal in the Cup, and then actually won the game, which it was not expected to win. For months and months, the chant had been “Sí, se puede.” Yes, it can be done. But as soon as that 2nd goal was made, it became, “Sí, se pudo!!!!!!!!” Yes, it could be done! That chant, along with “Vive el Ecuadoooooooooooooor!” rang throughout all of Ecuador for days following that first game. No one has any delusions of Ecuador bringing home the Cup, and we all know that we need to refocus for the games against Costa Rica and Germany, but for now, Ecuador has thoroughly and completely savored its sweet prize over Poland.
My friend Geovanny owns a bookstore here in Cuenca, and I went to visit him the day after the game. While I was there, another friend of his, Paul (Pa-ool), showed up. Like everyone, we were talking about the Cup, making predictions about upcoming games. We all agreed that the US has the best team it´s probably ever had, and that the Republica Cheka will be a formidable opponent. However, Paul and I disagreed about the US´s chance to win. Next thing I knew, Paul was saying “Quieres apostar?” Now, I had never heard the verb Apostar before, but without even thinking, I realized he was calling me to a bet, and I jumped right in. Not so much because I really believe the US will win, but in an extremely rare moment of nationalism, I felt compelled to defend the US´s honor. We made it an intellectual bet – the loser has to give the winner a book. If I win, I will get a book by Isabel Allendes. If I lose, I have to give Paul the book Como Agua Para Chocolate (Like Water for Chocolate.)
Dancing
After placing World Cup bets, my roommate and I met some of his former students out for a night of dancing. This group of people are so much fun. One Sunday we went to a park and played for hours. They love victim games where the loser has to pay a pentinence. I had to ask a total stranger to buy me an ice cream. Piece of cake for a flirt like me. Another time they basically kidnapped Chris and I and took us to a Chinese Karoake bar. While I never know what will happen with this group, they´re a lot of fun, and just buena gente (good people). I really appreciate that this group allows me the chance to have relationships with Ecuadorian women. The women here, while very polite, can be a bit reserved, especially with foreigners. They´re not unfriendly or anything like that – they just aren´t expected to initiate the conversation or relationship. The women in this group aren´t much different – they´re always a bit reticent around me at first, but I just patiently let them warm up to me, and soon enough we´re having a good time together.
I used to think that Salsa Dancing was a precursory course for all Ecuadorian children. Like, they can´t pass kindgarten until they know their alphabet, numbers, and how to salsa dance. But now I know that most of them don´t take lessons. Now, I believe the salsa education starts pre-birth. While they are in the womb, they get the rhythm of salsa as they hear it on the streets, and as their mothers dance it at family celebrations. Ecuadorians love to dance, and will dance to just about anything. But when the salsa starts, its like their souls wake up. For me, few things are sexier than watching Ecuadorians dance salsa. I am captivated by their feet, their hips, their hands, the sheer joy that just shows in every move they make. If allowed, I would watch it for hours. But, in salsa, there are no sidelines. Before I know it, someone has chosen me as their partner. There´s a lot going on in salsa, and I definitely haven´t mastered the basics. But, I can follow, and so far, all of my partners have been very good leaders who don´t mind teaching me a thing or two. Usually by the end of the 2nd song, the Latin spirit has taken over me, and I want to dance for hours. I´ve been here long enough that I recognize most of the songs, which of course makes it more fun. The next thing I knew it was 4 a.m., and my friends were telling me that I couldn´t dance anymore. At first I was bummed, but then I realized, there will always be more salsa.
La Policía
We left the dance club, and went in search of salchipapas (French fries with hotdogs). Before we found the salchipapas, one of the guys, Pablo, realized he has left his jacket, with all of his ID, in the bar. I went back with him, because I needed to go to the bathroom. When we got back, the police were outside of the bar, trying to shut it down. They started giving Pablo a hard time because he didn´t have ID on him, and, legally speaking, they could arrest him for that infraction. Once he got his jacket back and showed them the ID, they still weren´t happy, and continued to give harass him. Meanwhile, the bar, which didn´t want to deal with the police, after throwing Pablo´s jacket down to him, completely shut down, and wouldn´t let me in to use the bathroom. So I´m standing there saying, Um excuse me, I hate to interrupt the buracracy of this situation, but I really need to go to the bathroom! The next thing I knew, Pablo and I were being commanded into the police car. After dando a vuelto (literally translates to driving around aimlessly) for what seemed like forever, and listening to Pablo plead obsequiously with the police, we ended up back at where we started, in front of the bar. Finally, after Pablo gave them five dollars, all was settled.
Ecuadorians generally don´t trust their police, and are quick to call them corrupt. The police system here isn´t without its corruption, but I also wouldn´t say corrupt police is one of Ecuador´s greatest problems. As often goes with corruption, they are overworked and underpaid. At 4am, they saw a perfect chance to flirt a little with a gringa, and squeeze a buck or two out out of a local. Pablo and I both knew we were never in any danger, and that it was just a matter of playing their silly little game for awhile. In comparison to my other dealings with the police (after my mugging), the whole incident was a bit laughable. If anything it was just a waste of time, as we didn´t get home until 5:30.
So now I´m just enjoying a much needed two week break from teaching teenagers. This first week, I´m going to watch a lot of World Cup, and head to to the beach with my roommate. Next week, I´m going to help out a friend who is short staffed at the CEDEI preschool, which should be adventurous. I will of course give you the lowdown in my next blog entry…
Tags: Travel
jenniferadams515
Miss Jenni,
That was one heck of a blog. You sure don’t mess around, do you? I’m so glad and excited to hear about all the World Cup hoopla. Pat has been excessively asking me about you and your experiences with that. Now he can read for himself. I have watched almost all of the games thus far. But I tell you, after about three, I get a little tuckered out. But I’m so happy that you are enjoying all the excitement. How fun!
I look foward to reading all your blogs. I’m living vicarously through you. PS. I got a really cute apartment in Denver. Another incentive for you to actually live there with me someday…
Love,
Your fellow gigglefest
Jenni,
Great to be reconnected to your life overseas! You seem to be having a wonderful time and building enviable relationships with Ecuadorians. I always find creating those genuine relations with host-nationals (sorry, Peace Corps speak) is the hardest part of being overseas. There is so much gunk in the way — why I wish I could do more for international students on campus.
I’m off to Mexico for 2 weeks with my brother on Friday. Been studying over my Spanish — it all comes whirling back from high school, but doesn’t stick in the brain all that well. The plan is for me to leave Madison next summer and head for Guatemala by September to study Spanish full-time and hopefully volunteer. Your stories keep me inspired!
take care,
Laura
As always, your words are so wonderful to read. I wish I could be there with you! Stay well! SB
Jenni,
Hope this finds you doing well in Cuenca! I too am living vicarously though you and will look forward to forthcoming entries…keep all of us posted! Sounds like the World Cup is creating quite a stir and enjoy the ambiance. Guess you won’t be visiting MN anytime soon but may be I’ll be able to make the journey down to see you…
Cheers, DAS.