The Plan B Adventure

Our arrival in Saigon (currently called Ho Chi Minh City, but we prefer its original name) was joyously uneventful. As we motored in our bus down Pham Ngu Lao, the main backpacker drag, we spotted a hotel that looked nice and according to the book (Lonely Planet) was in our price range. SOLD!! We jumped off the bus and high-tailed it with our packs up the street.

This is the way you have to do things in Vietnam. Every bus you ride is extremely cheap ($4-5 for a 6-8 hour ride) and the reason for this is everything is subsidized by tour companies who drop you off in front of their hotels and eateries when you arrive in a city. Every one has something to sell you but like most good salespeople they are upfront with their product and promise you satisfaction, which you normally receive. If you are weathered enough as we are becoming you choose when to bow to the pressure and use a travel agent and when to not and do things on your own. All in all they are maybe making a $1-$2 commission off you which in the grand scheme of things means a ton to them and it exactly what we feel good service should cost. Okay….thesis on Vietnam travel companies over…..let’s get on with the sights and sounds.

After checking in at the Duna Hotel we opted to see the city without interference from the Lonely Planet book and just wander around the city at dusk. As we walked right out of our hotel here is a sampling of our first encounter with Saigon traffic.

Jeff: Ok…let’s cross.

Becca: Where?

Jeff: That opening between (pointing) those two motos.

Becca: That (pointing) isn’t a space….Look Out!!!

Jeff: (almost getting his arm taken off by moto driver) Holy Crap!!

Five minute Interlude

Jeff: Ok….let’s cross

Repeat previous conversation.

Well, needless to say we got across the road, as well many others. In fact, we have become quite good at navigating the thousands of motos which have been crazier in Vietnam than anywhere else on our trip. What you become is a head-swivel expert,  which is actually quite fun as long as you can keep your wits about you. Living in Chicago definitely helped a bit but as we found it’s easy to slip by a cab in Chicago….try 300 motorbikes coming at you at the same time. After making it across many a streets we happened upon a great neighborhood called Dong Khoi. For those of you in Chicago consider this Rush Street and for those of you in Seattle think…Bell Town. Cute boutiques, expensive (by Vietnamese standards) eateries, beautiful art galleries, and plenty of Westerners. This is the first area we’ve seen like this since Hong Kong and Becca welcomed it with open arms….Ahhhhh…familiarity is so nice when you are staying in a different hotel every few nights.

The next morning we opted to take the Lonely Planet walking tour. The caveat that the authors forget to mention is the 95 degree weather and the toll it takes on your body and mental condition. Stupidly but fulfillingly we started with a bowl of traditional Pho from Pho 2000, the Bill Clinton hangout when he frequents Saigon. We had a great time seeing the sights and architecture of this French colonial, Communist Seventies fusion which in some areas was breathtaking and others, just down right boring. After a few “heat breakdowns” we chose to head indoors to the War Remnants Museum. This museum has kindly (for our sake) changed its name from the American War Atrocities Museum. The Vietnamese have put together an interesting exhibit by mixing photojournalist experiences with horrifying photo documentations, actual war equipment, and Vietnamese children’s artistic impressions of war and peace. Quite interesting and the guest comment books are a definite read for any one taking the time to ponder why any country (and its politicians) would involve themselves in fighting another country based on a difference of governing ideologies. Well, we will stay away from that conversation until another time.

That night we decided to stay close to home and enjoy a walk around the Pham Ngu Lao area. As we were hobbling through the streets we literally tripped over our friend, Allyson, whom you might remember from Chiang Dao and Luang Prabang (the local BBQ). We sat down had a few beers and agreed to meet up for dinner the next night, the last night of her three month adventure.

The next AM we were up bright and early for an eclectic excursion. First, we visited the Cao Dai Holy City, which is an amazing sight of colors and religious fusion. This religion is primarily practiced in southern Vietnam and combines the belief of Buddhism, Confucianism, Christianity, Hinduism, Islam, Judaism, and Taoism. We had a fascinating time viewing the thrice-daily group prayer as well as learning about the origins and beliefs of this interesting group. Next, we were off to the Cu Chi Tunnels for another glimpse of the history of the war.

This is really an amazing site. Built in the late 50’s when the French were interjecting their imperialism on the Vietnamese these tunnels span 65km and reach all the way back to Saigon. Primarily used by the Viet Cong in the war against America this three-level network includes underground hospitals, kitchens, sleeping quarters, and trap doors. Quite an elaborate setup and it goes to put the Vietnamese in the top two (Afghans included) of guerrila-style warfarers. The tunnels were pretty tight but Jeff and two fellow travellers made it through over 100 meters and Becca championed the 30-m short course. Overall, five hours in the car and three hours at the sights….the “Worth-It” rating was a six out of ten.

That night we met Allyson and some Canadians whom recommend a fantastic beach resort in the sleepy town of Mui Ne, just four short hours north of Saigon. Well, we were headed that way already so why not!!! Bec’s sunburn is cleared up and why not compare the beaches of Vietnam with our previous Cambodian experience.

Tags: Ho Chi Minh City, Saigon, Travel, Vietnam

This entry was posted on Saturday, March 18th, 2006 at 4:54 am and is filed under Travel. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.