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<li class="cat-item cat-item-408"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/eurasia-marco-polo-in-it/beijing" >Beijing</a> (14)
</li>
<li class="cat-item cat-item-4594"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/japan/brooding-in-japan" title="A series of reflections about two years spent in Japan.  ">Brooding in Japan</a> (6)
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<li class="cat-item cat-item-1232"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/cambodia" title="Just your standard Siem Reap/Ankor stop.  Four days in February, 2006.">Cambodia</a> (3)
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<li class="cat-item cat-item-4591"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/capitals-tour-of-asia" title="A two week, winter romp from Seoul to Tokyo on the smallest budget possible.  ">Capitals tour of Asia</a> (24)
</li>
<li class="cat-item cat-item-4588"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/chinahong-kongmacau" title="Entries from my February/March, 2006 trip.">China</a> (16)
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<li class="cat-item cat-item-4593 current-cat-parent current-cat-ancestor"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/eurasia-marco-polo-in-it" >Eurasia: Marco Polo-in' it</a> (88)
</li>
<li class="cat-item cat-item-2223"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/chinahong-kongmacau/hong-kong" title="The most entertaining city I've been to in Asia.  When you're Chinese visa expires, this is where to come!  March 31st-April 6th, 2006.">Hong Kong</a> (4)
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<li class="cat-item cat-item-3035"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/eurasia-marco-polo-in-it/iceland" >Iceland</a> (11)
</li>
<li class="cat-item cat-item-963"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/japan" title="I've compiled my entries over my past two years in Japan into an orderly group.    ">Japan</a> (33)
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<li class="cat-item cat-item-4595"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/capitals-tour-of-asia/japan-on-the-cheap" title="How to travel in notoriously high-priced Japan by living like a bum!">Japan on the cheap</a> (14)
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<li class="cat-item cat-item-4598"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/eurasia-marco-polo-in-it/kazakhstan" >Kazakhstan</a> (3)
</li>
<li class="cat-item cat-item-3705"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/capitals-tour-of-asia/south-korea" title="December 25, 2006-January 1, 2007.">Korea</a> (10)
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<li class="cat-item cat-item-3412"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/eurasia-marco-polo-in-it/kyrgyzstan" >Kyrgyzstan</a> (9)
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<li class="cat-item cat-item-2984"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/chinahong-kongmacau/macau" title="A quick stop for a Visa and food, March 5, 2006.">Macau</a> (1)
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<li class="cat-item cat-item-278 current-cat"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/eurasia-marco-polo-in-it/mongolia" >Mongolia</a> (24)
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<li class="cat-item cat-item-4596"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/eurasia-marco-polo-in-it/nanjingsuzhou" >Nanjing/Suzhou</a> (3)
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<li class="cat-item cat-item-24"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/eurasia-marco-polo-in-it/poland" >Poland</a> (4)
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<li class="cat-item cat-item-2718"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/eurasia-marco-polo-in-it/shanghai" >Shanghai</a> (8)
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<li class="cat-item cat-item-2256"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/eurasia-marco-polo-in-it/sweden" >Sweden</a> (2)
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<li class="cat-item cat-item-4589"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/teaching-english" title="Thoughts and reflections about my time teaching in Japan.">Teaching English</a> (10)
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<li class="cat-item cat-item-4587"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/thailandcambodia" title="Entries from my February, 2006 trip.">Thailand</a> (12)
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<li class="cat-item cat-item-4590"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/trip-preparationdeparture" >Trip preparation/departure</a> (5)
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<li class="cat-item cat-item-3401"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/eurasia-marco-polo-in-it/uzbekistan" >Uzbekistan</a> (10)
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<li class="cat-item cat-item-4594"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/japan/brooding-in-japan" title="A series of reflections about two years spent in Japan.  ">Brooding in Japan</a> (6)
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<li class="cat-item cat-item-1232"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/cambodia" title="Just your standard Siem Reap/Ankor stop.  Four days in February, 2006.">Cambodia</a> (3)
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<li class="cat-item cat-item-4591"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/capitals-tour-of-asia" title="A two week, winter romp from Seoul to Tokyo on the smallest budget possible.  ">Capitals tour of Asia</a> (24)
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<li class="cat-item cat-item-4588"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/chinahong-kongmacau" title="Entries from my February/March, 2006 trip.">China</a> (16)
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<li class="cat-item cat-item-4593 current-cat-parent current-cat-ancestor"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/eurasia-marco-polo-in-it" >Eurasia: Marco Polo-in' it</a> (88)
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<li class="cat-item cat-item-2223"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/chinahong-kongmacau/hong-kong" title="The most entertaining city I've been to in Asia.  When you're Chinese visa expires, this is where to come!  March 31st-April 6th, 2006.">Hong Kong</a> (4)
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<li class="cat-item cat-item-3035"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/eurasia-marco-polo-in-it/iceland" >Iceland</a> (11)
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<li class="cat-item cat-item-963"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/japan" title="I've compiled my entries over my past two years in Japan into an orderly group.    ">Japan</a> (33)
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<li class="cat-item cat-item-4595"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/capitals-tour-of-asia/japan-on-the-cheap" title="How to travel in notoriously high-priced Japan by living like a bum!">Japan on the cheap</a> (14)
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<li class="cat-item cat-item-4598"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/eurasia-marco-polo-in-it/kazakhstan" >Kazakhstan</a> (3)
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<li class="cat-item cat-item-3705"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/capitals-tour-of-asia/south-korea" title="December 25, 2006-January 1, 2007.">Korea</a> (10)
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<li class="cat-item cat-item-3412"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/eurasia-marco-polo-in-it/kyrgyzstan" >Kyrgyzstan</a> (9)
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<li class="cat-item cat-item-2984"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/chinahong-kongmacau/macau" title="A quick stop for a Visa and food, March 5, 2006.">Macau</a> (1)
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<li class="cat-item cat-item-278 current-cat"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/eurasia-marco-polo-in-it/mongolia" >Mongolia</a> (24)
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<li class="cat-item cat-item-4596"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/eurasia-marco-polo-in-it/nanjingsuzhou" >Nanjing/Suzhou</a> (3)
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<li class="cat-item cat-item-24"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/eurasia-marco-polo-in-it/poland" >Poland</a> (4)
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<li class="cat-item cat-item-2718"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/eurasia-marco-polo-in-it/shanghai" >Shanghai</a> (8)
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<li class="cat-item cat-item-2256"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/eurasia-marco-polo-in-it/sweden" >Sweden</a> (2)
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<li class="cat-item cat-item-4589"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/teaching-english" title="Thoughts and reflections about my time teaching in Japan.">Teaching English</a> (10)
</li>
<li class="cat-item cat-item-4587"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/thailandcambodia" title="Entries from my February, 2006 trip.">Thailand</a> (12)
</li>
<li class="cat-item cat-item-4590"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/trip-preparationdeparture" >Trip preparation/departure</a> (5)
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<li class="cat-item cat-item-3401"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/eurasia-marco-polo-in-it/uzbekistan" >Uzbekistan</a> (10)
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    [6] => <li class="cat-item cat-item-2223"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/chinahong-kongmacau/hong-kong" title="The most entertaining city I've been to in Asia.  When you're Chinese visa expires, this is where to come!  March 31st-April 6th, 2006.">Hong Kong</a> (4) </li>
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    [13] => <li class="cat-item cat-item-2984"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/chinahong-kongmacau/macau" title="A quick stop for a Visa and food, March 5, 2006.">Macau</a> (1) </li>
    [14] => <li class="cat-item cat-item-278 current-cat"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/eurasia-marco-polo-in-it/mongolia" >Mongolia</a> (24) </li>
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    [18] => <li class="cat-item cat-item-2256"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/eurasia-marco-polo-in-it/sweden" >Sweden</a> (2) </li>
    [19] => <li class="cat-item cat-item-4589"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/teaching-english" title="Thoughts and reflections about my time teaching in Japan.">Teaching English</a> (10) </li>
    [20] => <li class="cat-item cat-item-4587"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/thailandcambodia" title="Entries from my February, 2006 trip.">Thailand</a> (12) </li>
    [21] => <li class="cat-item cat-item-4590"><a href="https://blogs.bootsnall.com/Danny-in-Asia/category/trip-preparationdeparture" >Trip preparation/departure</a> (5) </li>
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Beijing (14)

Brooding in Japan (6)

Cambodia (3)

Capitals tour of Asia (24)

China (16)

Eurasia: Marco Polo-in' it (88)

Hong Kong (4)

Iceland (11)

Japan (33)

Japan on the cheap (14)

Kazakhstan (3)

Korea (10)

Kyrgyzstan (9)

Macau (1)

Mongolia (24)

Nanjing/Suzhou (3)

Poland (4)

Shanghai (8)

Sweden (2)

Teaching English (10)

Thailand (12)

Trip preparation/departure (5)

Uzbekistan (10)

Archive for the 'Mongolia' Category

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Central Mongolia, Day Seven

Thursday, May 3rd, 2007

In 1204 Mongolia was a fractured region of warring tribes. Eight of these tribes united at this time against a vastly outnumbered leader named Temurjin at the battle of Nahu-Gun Mountain. This leader would prevail and two years later receive the title Chinggis Khaan, the uniter of the Mongol hordes and future head of the largest empire the world would ever know. In 1220 he established the capital at Kharakhorum, the town we woke up in today.

The ancient city is completely gone now. Whatever remnants that remained after the Ming Chinese sacked the city were salvaged to build the Erdene Zuu Monastery in 1586. The new town of Kharakhorum sits just to the south of the monastery and looks like any other rural Mongolian village, a series of wood fenced rows spilling out across the valley floor.

In the capital’s glory days, before Kublai Khaan established the Yuan dynasty in Beijing, the city was one of the world’s finest. Only Ankor Wat in Cambodia was more populace at the time, and most archaeologists put the population of Kharakhorum between 100,000-200,000 people. The site was rediscovered in 1948-49 and teams of German and Japanese archaeologists have been slowly excavating the site since the late 90s. They’ve made some incredible discoveries. The Mongols and Great Khaans have most often been noted for their barbarism and cruelty by Western historians. However, within the old city walls the teams have excavated a Christian church, two Mosques, and twelve Buddhist temples. These discoveries suggest a religious tolerance and sensitivity that I hope someday helps to paint the Mongols in a better light. Even Chinggis himself has only recently been credited for his skilled diplomacy and shrewd political skills. He wasn’t the madman I imagined as a child.

The monastery is the main attraction now, historically one of Asia’s most important Buddhist sanctuaries. Lining the walls are 108 stuppas that overlook four main buildings. Statues of the young, middle-aged, and old Buddha Shakyamuni (under the Bodhi tree) are housed in the three buildings and the last is the active monastery. Many of the temples were destroyed in the 1930s by the communists during Stalin’s purges and it’s only by a stroke of luck that the whole place didn’t meet the same fate. Under communist rule the walls were used to stable livestock. I highly recommend visiting the National History Museum in Ulaan Baatar before or soon after seeing Kharakhorum. It has an excellent German designed model of the ancient city which will definitely heighten your experience.
We start our long journey back to Ulaan Baatar at noon, a bumpy ride on and off road, past the rolling hills and wandering herds that I’ve come to love this week. What an amazing trip.

Posted in Eurasia: Marco Polo-in' it, Mongolia | No Comments »

Central Mongolia, Day Six

Thursday, May 3rd, 2007

The nomads are on the move. The springtime is plagued by dusty winds and we’ve found many ger camps huddled in drainages and near rocky outcroppoings for protection. In the summer the camp moves about 5km down the lakeside and when we wake up the carts are packed up and ready to go.

From this point in the trip we’re pretty much retracing our steps back to U.B. Shaga cruises down to Tsetserleg and blows a shoe spring on the drum brakes. Being the awesome driver he is, it’s changed in 45 minutes. We get to Kharakhorum, the ancient Mongol capital with enough time to wander around its dusty streets and play some pool with the local high school kids.At night we’re treated to a Mongolian folk concert. The most traditional instrument is the Morin Khuur, a boxy two-stringed bow instrument with a horse head on top. Other instruments he use can be found in China, Korea, and Japan as well, although he claims their design can be traced back to his homeland. The most unique aspect of music here is the tonal throat singing that resonates from the lungs, mouth, and nasal cavity, creating a two-toned harmony that is both beautiful and haunting. The show is a great finish to our trip, and so is the bottle of vodka we polish off afterward.

Posted in Eurasia: Marco Polo-in' it, Mongolia | No Comments »

Central Mongolia, Day Five

Thursday, May 3rd, 2007

The three of us are officially sick of yak meat and I don't care if I ever touch milk tea again. Since we didn't hire a guide we eat like the locals who follow a tried and true rotation of ... [Continue reading this entry]

Posted in Eurasia: Marco Polo-in' it, Mongolia | No Comments »

Central Mongolia, Day Four

Wednesday, May 2nd, 2007

We head out early for our furthest destination, White Lake, where we’ll spend two nights. It’s a slow ascent up the valley floor and we finally come to a small grove of trees near the stunning gorge of the Chuluut ... [Continue reading this entry]

Posted in Eurasia: Marco Polo-in' it, Mongolia | No Comments »

Central Mongolia, Day Three

Wednesday, May 2nd, 2007

We leave a wildly waving, jumping Muugi in the morning and head north toward the town of Tsetserleg. The three of us can’t help but notice that Shaga seems less sure about this route than in days past. “This is ... [Continue reading this entry]

Posted in Eurasia: Marco Polo-in' it, Mongolia | No Comments »

Central Mongolia, Day Two

Wednesday, May 2nd, 2007

The old woman is up a 6am stoking the fire and making the milk tea. This is the Mongolian staple served everywhere you go and you’ll either hate it or kind of like it. I’m of the latter group as ... [Continue reading this entry]

Posted in Eurasia: Marco Polo-in' it, Mongolia | 1 Comment »

Central Mongolia, Day One

Wednesday, May 2nd, 2007

We meet at 9am and meet our driver Shaga, a 58 year old ex-truck driver who turned to the growing tourism industry five years ago. After a quick grocery run we’re off into the wide open expanse. The area west of ... [Continue reading this entry]

Posted in Eurasia: Marco Polo-in' it, Mongolia | No Comments »

Getting out of UB: The Central Mongolian Team

Wednesday, May 2nd, 2007

I’ve been trying to get out of town into the countryside but have found only one person who wants to go, a British girl named Danielle. With just two of us we can’t afford it so we’ve been searching the ... [Continue reading this entry]

Posted in Eurasia: Marco Polo-in' it, Mongolia | 1 Comment »

Ulaan Baatar

Wednesday, May 2nd, 2007

Batjargal has lived half his life under communist rule and half after. His careers and stories are all the more interesting to me because if his life’s dichotomies. In the 90s he used to fly to Germany, buy a couple ... [Continue reading this entry]

Posted in Eurasia: Marco Polo-in' it, Mongolia | No Comments »

How I came to Mongolia

Wednesday, May 2nd, 2007

I met Ogie in Beijing while staying at the Leo Hostel south of Tiananmen. She walked into the common room and let everyone know she was Mongolian. I might have guessed. Her high cheek bones and long black hair give ... [Continue reading this entry]

Posted in Eurasia: Marco Polo-in' it, Mongolia | No Comments »

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Archive for the 'Mongolia' Category

Central Mongolia, Day Seven

Central Mongolia, Day Six

Central Mongolia, Day Five

Central Mongolia, Day Four

Central Mongolia, Day Three

Central Mongolia, Day Two

Central Mongolia, Day One

Getting out of UB: The Central Mongolian Team

Ulaan Baatar

How I came to Mongolia